t.j.
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| posted on 25/12/06 at 09:17 PM |
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give me comment
Saterday i finished my bones,
I'm happy with the results.
Any tips how to weld the backets to the chassis?
 
Description
 
Description
[Edited on 25/12/06 by t.j.]
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MattCraneCustoms
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| posted on 25/12/06 at 09:38 PM |
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they look very nice, should be strong enough too, but would the diaganol extra tube make much difference? fancy making a second pair?!!??
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Avoneer
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| posted on 25/12/06 at 10:27 PM |
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A gentle curve on the plate's back edge on the front lowers may be a good idea and is the general consensus.
Apart from that, look very good and good welds.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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JoelP
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| posted on 25/12/06 at 10:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MattCraneCustoms
but would the diaganol extra tube make much difference?
braking would put lozenging forces into the bones, that diagonal is essential IMHO.
I like the rear uprights, what gauge or thickness are the components?
[Edited on 25/12/06 by JoelP]
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the_fbi
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| posted on 25/12/06 at 11:47 PM |
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Unless you've got a week to read it, skip to Mark Allanson's 2nd post on this thread.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=12587
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the_fbi
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| posted on 25/12/06 at 11:48 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
I like the rear uprights, what gauge or thickness are the components?
Don't know if his previous thread helps with better pictures.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=56894
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JoelP
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| posted on 25/12/06 at 11:53 PM |
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cheers for that, looks even better there.
Its a sure sign im getting over my internet addiction if ive started missing threads! 
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 26/12/06 at 01:02 PM |
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I think you have a real weak point where the arms of the wishbone stops and the balljoint starts, all the forces are passing through a 2 dimensional
plate before the get to the strong bits. I agree with the curved plate to prevent focusing loads to one very specific part of the arm.
I would use the as yet unfinished shock brackets to made the bones safe - I always try to make one piece do 2 jobs if I can.
I hope this pickie makes it as clear as mud!
 
Rescued attachment Low front wishbone.JPG
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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JoelP
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| posted on 26/12/06 at 02:36 PM |
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i believe t.j is using 2mm tubing in his bones, so he's not as at risk as someone who has used 16g etc. Still a good idea though i suppose.
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t.j.
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| posted on 26/12/06 at 05:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
i believe t.j is using 2mm tubing in his bones, so he's not as at risk as someone who has used 16g etc. Still a good idea though i suppose.
Sorry I used 3 mm seamless tube in the wishbones. If I hit something i'm sure the bracket and the chassis will have a problem.
@ Mark.
The plate i used is 10mm thick so the forces at the ball-joint can be handled.
The curve in the back. I like that idea but not untill I know where the bracket of my 13 " Spax will be pointed.
Then i'm planning to do like the GTS-bones.
So not so far towards the mountings. Only the modify the excisting not by placing extra strenght.
Thx for the advice.
Always learning................
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t.j.
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| posted on 26/12/06 at 05:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
quote:
Originally posted by MattCraneCustoms
but would the diaganol extra tube make much difference?
braking would put lozenging forces into the bones, that diagonal is essential IMHO.
I like the rear uprights, what gauge or thickness are the components?
I used 4 mm there. Only the big tube is 3 mm in lack of finding 4 mm.
The upright is basicly like rorty's only rorty shock-mounting is not "my style"
The lower is as wide as possible in a 14 inch wheel. (forces)
The upper will be holded by one M16 rose-joint. The lower 2 m12 like the Avon does.
So most can be adjusted, Thanks to the advice earlier around here!
Grtz Theo
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