scottc
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 posted on 6/1/07 at 11:09 AM |
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Bleeding brakes!
I've spent the last 2 hours trying to bleed the brakes on my tintop. I just can't seem to get all the air out. I started on the wheel
furthest away from the M/C and worked my way towards the nearest.
The fluid always seems to have miniscule dots of air in it?!!? maybe its water suspended in it? I can get the large air bubbles out, but the pedal
never gets to the point where its solid with the engine running.
Any one have any ideas?
TIA
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 11:16 AM |
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I had this on my nissan Z
brakes were always shite
replaced all apart from MC and ABS
maybe one of them has the slightest air leak
absolute pain in the ass
give me a good old 7 brake system anyday
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RazMan
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 11:18 AM |
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Are you using fresh fluid to pump through? The correct DOT ? You might as well flush the whole lot through to be sure - just keep going until clear
fluid emerges.
Also worth remembering that the pedal will never feel totally hard with the servo - have you just fitted new pads?
[Edited on 6-1-07 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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scottc
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 11:21 AM |
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The pedals been soft since we got the car before xmas, I clamped up each corners hose, and the pedal was solid, I couldn't push it down.
using fresh fluid to top up the reservoir, and pumping that through.
I'm using a 'one man' bleed kit, and just pumping the fluid through. I haven't let the reservoir drop below the minimum level
either.
Shall I just keep going?
EDIT:
Yeah new pads and discs.
At the moment there is no resistance there at all. the throttle is harder than the brake lol.
[Edited on 6/1/07 by scottc]
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RazMan
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 11:31 AM |
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I find that I get better results with swmbo's foot on the pedal as you tighten the bleed nipple (if you can persuade her to come outside  )
Sometimes you can suck a little air back in while you are moving between pedal & nipple.
There is a chance that you need to bed in the pads to get everything rock hard anyway so maybe worth trying a few hard stops.
[Edited on 6-1-07 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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snapper
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 11:44 AM |
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If you have clamped of all four and the pedal is solid then its one of the calipers,
clamp them up again then release one push until it goes hard, release, clamp up and go on to the next, it takes a while and you could do with two
people on the job but you should be able to isolate the problem corner.
To check master cylinder you replace pipes with bleed nipples, stand on the pedal, any movement (apart from the pedal bending) is the master cylinder
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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MikeR
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 11:45 AM |
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also, press the pedal slowly.
press it down over 2 seconds, and lift it over the same time frame.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 11:59 AM |
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What car is it? some Vauxhall models collapse the master cylinder rubbers at the drop of a hat. Invest in a Gunsons easibleed for bleeding the brakes
but make sure it has the correct adaptor to fit the master cylinder.
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Danozeman
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 12:06 PM |
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What car is it has it got rear disks?? Some times the screw in the caliper can go and give kind of this trouble.
AS said try swmbo's foot on the pedal while u do it with the kit rusty recommends.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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scottc
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 12:07 PM |
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Cheers guys some great advice there.
It's a '97 plate Megane. Might drop it back down on the ground and take it for a brake test 
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britishtrident
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 12:41 PM |
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What type of one man bleed system are you using ? -- the only DIY that works properly on all systems is the Gunsons eazibleed.
This is because a lot of brake master cylinders can draw in air past the seals on the return stroke.
True one man bleeding is impossible because at some point the pedal must be pumped, the pedal MUST also be be held down while the nipples are closed.
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scottc
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 01:34 PM |
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It was a simple pipe with a one-way valve.
But have taken advice and purchased a gunson eazi-bleed. so going back out there now.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 02:13 PM |
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Make sure the spare tyre you use does not have more than about 18P.S.I. otherwise you will lose fluid from the cap to master cylinder connection.
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scottc
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 07:01 PM |
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I let some air out the tyre first - kinda guessed as I didn't have a gauge, and bled all the brakes again using the eezi bleed. must admit was
eezi
I am pretty confident that there is no air left in the system however the pedal is still REALLLY soft. dropped the car down and found a deserted road,
and managed to lock all 4 wheels (no ABS) so I guess I can't ask for more than that can I??
Does anyone else have a Mk1 Megane who can confirm the pedal feel is SH!T ??
Thanks,
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RazMan
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 09:35 PM |
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I still think it is down to bedding in the pads & discs. Give them 100 miles or so and I bet they improve.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/1/07 at 06:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by scottc
It was a simple pipe with a one-way valve.
But have taken advice and purchased a gunson eazi-bleed. so going back out there now.
One way valves don't work on most systems, you could get away with them on older british Girling and Lockheed systems but most modern systems
will just suck in air past the master cylinder seals if you use them.
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scottc
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| posted on 7/1/07 at 06:40 PM |
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The Eezibleed made a world of difference.
used the car today and it seems to be better, but I'm certain there's no air in there anymore. :-)
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/1/07 at 06:41 PM |
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When using an eazibleed tyre has got to be pump UP not let down --- need at least 35 psi before you start.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 7/1/07 at 08:28 PM |
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Yet to use any pressure bleeder that doesn't leak with more than 20 psi including Easibleed , Sykes Pickavant and V.A.G equipment . I.S.T.R.
from reading Easibleed instructions years ago thet tyre used should have no more than 20 psi.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 7/1/07 at 09:14 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
I.S.T.R. from reading Easibleed instructions years ago thet tyre used should have no more than 20 psi.
Your right! http://www.aep.bigstep.com/Geezibleed.pdf
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scottc
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| posted on 7/1/07 at 09:49 PM |
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Though when I reinflated the tyre it was at about 6 psi
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