goodall
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| posted on 24/1/07 at 07:18 PM |
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Welding driveshafts
how do you do it with out them warping?
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Wadders
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| posted on 24/1/07 at 07:28 PM |
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You really need to sleeve them, in a machined tube, and then run two fillets round the ends of the tube.
Al.
Originally posted by goodall
how do you do it with out them warping?
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madteg
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| posted on 24/1/07 at 07:28 PM |
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drive shafts
Have just done mine, made 4" sleaves good fit, pushed shafts in and stick welded them with 3.2 rods on 120 amps they have come out a treat.
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MikeR
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| posted on 24/1/07 at 07:56 PM |
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daft question, are you a qualified welder or a enthusiastic amature welder?
i need to get mine done & i'm weighing up the options.
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ed_crouch
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| posted on 24/1/07 at 08:05 PM |
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Get them balanced or you'll knock wheelbearings etc out very quickly.
Ed.
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goodall
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| posted on 24/1/07 at 08:06 PM |
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enthusiastic amature of course
this is the concept i have that requires driveshafts to have bits welded to them
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goodall
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| posted on 24/1/07 at 08:07 PM |
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this is the inboard cv and the shaft is cut at the end were it stops so it can be mated to a propshaft
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 24/1/07 at 08:19 PM |
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I made some for my autograss Mini, they were Rover on the inner end & VW on the outer.
I used the long shaft from the R/H side of 2 Golf Gtis as these had a hollow tube type shaft & had 2 collars about 40mm long made up to fit the
Rover shaft into the hollow VW tube.
The collars were made too tight for the Rover shaft by about 8thou & too big for the VW tube again about 8thou I think. I heated the collar up to
get it on the shaft & allowed it to cool, then heated the shaft & collar together before welding the flat end of the rover shaft to the
collar. The VW tube was then heated to get the collar in & the whole lot allowed to cool, the shafts were then trued up in a set of V-blocks
before welding the collar & tube toghether.
These shafts have been raced in a FWD car with a welded diff & have been no trouble. I dont know what type of tube would be suitable but it must
be available somewhere & this was far cheaper than getting a set of shafts made
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Liam
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| posted on 24/1/07 at 09:22 PM |
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Hi there...
This is to turn your transverse box driveshafts into front/rear propshafts I presume? Are the CVs boltable types (like the sierra lobro ones)? If so
then your best option would be to unbolt the whole CV and bin it. Then your gearbox has 6-bolt flanges as its output (like a bolt-on sierra diff) to
which you can bolt an adaptor that allows you to fit a conventional propshaft uj and avoid welding altogether.
If you dont have boltable CVs and have to weld a cut and shut job I'd just cut the driveshaft close to the CV and sleeve propshaft tube directly
on (may require an intermediate sleeve to bring up the shaft OD to the tube ID like hillbilly is describing) instead of welding on some sort of
flange/bracket and bolting on a prop like you seem to have drawn (??).
Hope that helps...
Liam
[Edited on 24/1/07 by Liam]
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goodall
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| posted on 24/1/07 at 09:40 PM |
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nope there push in ones, would be nice and simple if they were the bolt on CV's
there already is a intermediate piece in the prop because one of the uj's is on a slider thing were the power is transmitted by 12 flat piece of
steel, kind hard to explain, it called a strap type prop shaft, just allows for and aft movement between engine/gearbox and diff
[Edited on 24/1/07 by goodall]
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madteg
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| posted on 24/1/07 at 10:40 PM |
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welder
asmi 9 coded welder.
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Uphill Racer
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| posted on 24/1/07 at 10:57 PM |
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This is how I joined my 3 dissimilar parts together, ohc allegro diff vw drive shaft 1275 mini drive.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/uphill-racer/driveshaftc.jpg
hope it helps
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