Cozza
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| posted on 1/8/03 at 08:52 AM |
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Wishbone Geometry
Hi,
Last night I completed the assembly of one of my front bottom wishbones but problemo -
I fabricated, assembled and welded them in a jig as per the book dimensions.
When I removed the wishbone, however, one of the eye tubes is not exactly "square", i.e. when it is on the car it won't be exactly
parallel to the centre line.
Do you think a discrepancy will be taken up by the metalastic bush? Or am I stuffed and will have to remove the eye tube?
Thanks for any help!
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Peteff
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| posted on 1/8/03 at 09:20 AM |
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Fix it or you'll wear the bush out in no time and the suspension arm won't lift as it's supposed to, it'll bind.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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James
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| posted on 1/8/03 at 10:17 AM |
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Hi Cozza,
Don't take this the wrong way. You've probably done this but just in case:
check the alignment against something else flat- edge of rule, spirit level, whatever. I only say so as the shape of the wishbones makes them
'look' out of line when looking just with the eye.
I've noticed this optical illusion on mine and really panicked! Then found that they were ok really.
Sorry if that's too obvious and you've tested already! 
Good Luck,
James
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Surrey Dave
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| posted on 1/8/03 at 10:31 AM |
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Wishbones
I didn't make my own wishbones but if I did I would have put a tube through the bush tubes to keep them inlne with each other, not too tight
though else it might be difficult to get out.
My bushes are poly and there ain't much give in them so you'd probably have to sort it
One of my Stuart Taylor wishbones had to be thrown away for the same reason!!!
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JoelP
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| posted on 1/8/03 at 12:39 PM |
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2 things:
i was thinking of leaving the two bush tubes as one, and only cutting out the middle once it was welded to the bones. that would guarantee they were
both in line. only problem would be cutting them precisely square, but it seems a fair idea.
second thing, i though i'd done my chassis wonky when i looked by eye cos the diff mount (sierra) was well of centre, then i realised the diff
wasnt symetrical anyway. eyes are often wrong....
am i mad using the rear subframe and arms and diff carrier of the donor? rather heavy but a lot easier.
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James
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| posted on 1/8/03 at 04:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
2 things:
i was thinking of leaving the two bush tubes as one, and only cutting out the middle once it was welded to the bones. that would guarantee they were
both in line. only problem would be cutting them precisely square, but it seems a fair idea.
second thing, i though i'd done my chassis wonky when i looked by eye cos the diff mount (sierra) was well of centre, then i realised the diff
wasnt symetrical anyway. eyes are often wrong....
am i mad using the rear subframe and arms and diff carrier of the donor? rather heavy but a lot easier.
If you've got long enough lengths of tube still then that's a good way- it's how I did it. I got the idea from someone else on here.
I actually cut through most of the tube first though then welded it together and then cut it fully.
Regarding the sub-frame- this is how Robin Hood do it in some cars.
Cheers,
James
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dave blissett
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| posted on 1/8/03 at 06:32 PM |
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siera back end
i put in sierra back end in my locost same as the robin hood it looked crap and so i am now puting in a avon type backend its more work but it looks
right and that normaly means it will work
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 1/8/03 at 10:27 PM |
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i thought of the sierra idea originally, but making room for the 'donut' mounts looked so hard I gave up fast!
atb
steve
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andyps
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| posted on 1/8/03 at 10:47 PM |
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There is a drawing on the locost car club showing how to modify the book chassis to fit the complete sierra rear suspension.
link here or www.locostcarclub.co.uk in the help section.
I think I will be going the avon rear suspension style.
Andy
An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less
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