James
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posted on 8/10/03 at 02:03 PM |
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Calliper paint
Was in Halfwits last night looking for some wishbone paint. Spotted the small 250ml tins of calliper paint they sell for for £10!!!
What on earth is in this stuff that it costs that much? The only thing I can think of that would make it different to 'normal' paint is
making it heat resistant but even then the engine paint they sell is half that money for a larger tin.
Is it just that it's sold to the hot hatch brigade who are muppets or something else?
Cheers,
James
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ned
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posted on 8/10/03 at 02:09 PM |
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i bought some of this stuff, yes, £10. ot goes off (tacky) very quickly and you can recoat it in an hour, then can't repaint for several weeks.
my first atempt didn't lok too bad...
will post a pic soon...
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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locoboy
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posted on 8/10/03 at 02:10 PM |
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James
Probably just that price for the nova boys but it may be harder wearing ie chip resistant as the calipers tend to get a bit more crud thrown at them
then the block/head/or cam cover.
i may be talking cobblers though.
ATB
Locoboy
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JoelP
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posted on 8/10/03 at 02:12 PM |
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i've picked a lovely textured brown colour for mine, cos thats how they came!
must say respect to people who can be bothered grinding and painting all the pieces, like sump box and diff! me way too lazy!
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DaveFJ
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posted on 8/10/03 at 02:18 PM |
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not sure if its the same stuff but i was looking at some paint recently - the engine paint was good up to 200 degrees whereas the caliper paint was
good for 1000 degrees - apparently!
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mackie
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posted on 8/10/03 at 02:53 PM |
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I'm trying to be arsed to start cleaning parts up but it's not fun. The idea of a nice shiney diff (possibly painted nicely) and calipers
that don't look like turds slapped onto the brake disks does appeal but... meh...
They'll just get all cruddy again anyway. It's probably worth replacing the diff case torx bolts with new however...
What's the best way to clean up corroded ali? Any killer tools for cleaning stuff up? I'm looking at getting a set of drill brushes.
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rell
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posted on 8/10/03 at 03:15 PM |
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yes the wire weels are up to the job but when useing one have anuther in some thiners and ceep swoping them or you end up spreding crap over the nice
polished bit you just bid.
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rell
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posted on 8/10/03 at 03:18 PM |
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when i say thiners i meen celi thiners not your normal hous hold stuf (celi thiners bracks down oil deposits)
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VinceGledhill
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posted on 8/10/03 at 04:34 PM |
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Sounds to me like the caliper paint is made of similar stuff to hamerite. Hamerite must be left 6 weeks before a second coat.
The calipers themselves won't get hot, let's face it they've got rubber sealing them. It's the brake disks that get hot. The
calipers are at the other side of an asbestos (now asbestos free I know but similar properties)
I was given a gallon (yes I did say a gallon) of silver hamerite by a mate who is a painter and decorator. He got it for a job and used a bit out of
the top.
So looks like all my bits and bobs are going to be silver then..... oh err missus....
Regards
Vince Gledhill
Time Served Auto Electrician
Lucas Leeds 1979-1983
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JoelP
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posted on 8/10/03 at 04:47 PM |
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i once had a binding brake that caused the wheel to get so hot i burnt my fingers on the nut after it was out. calipers surely must warm up a bit at
least? obviously not to 1000C but maybe 100?
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Spyderman
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posted on 8/10/03 at 04:48 PM |
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Vince
Don't forget to pass it along when you've finished then!
[Edited on 8/10/03 by Spyderman]
Spyderman
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pbura
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posted on 8/10/03 at 05:46 PM |
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How about using a phosphoric acid primer that leaves a black oxide finish? Then there'd be no need for rust removal.
Then just paint the calipers with whatever (maybe aluminum paint??) and leave the disc edges and top hats with the black finish.
Would this work?
Pete
P.S. Or I could wait for Vince's gallon when all you guys are done with it
[Edited on 8/10/03 by pbura]
Pete
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Donners90
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posted on 8/10/03 at 06:57 PM |
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Caliper paint
Could the cost of the special caliper paint not reflect the fact that the paint has to resist the brake fluid as well as heat? I've just painted
my calipers with the Halfords paint and they come up pretty well. I found that giving them a coat of 2pak paint first gave a better finish. Can post
pics if u like?
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Ben_Copeland
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posted on 8/10/03 at 09:06 PM |
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I've always used Hammerite.... couple of coats.... and it lasts as well as caliper paint!!! Much much cheaper too !
Sod waiting 6 weeks..... hour after first coat... slap another on. sorted !
Ben
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andrew-theasby
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posted on 8/10/03 at 09:13 PM |
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Hi, i shot blasted my callipers then painted them with 2 pack and lots of lacquer to match my car. Does any body know whether this will last or if
theres anything else i can do do stop them chipping? I assumed it would take the heat ok because of the rubber seals (fingers crossed anyway )
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Ben_Copeland
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posted on 8/10/03 at 09:28 PM |
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The heat isn't a problem... cos i used that on my engine camcover..
but it chips easy ! just like paintwork on the car.
Dont think there's much you can do with it... just pray it stays on ok
[Edited on 8/10/03 by Ben_Copeland]
Ben
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andrew-theasby
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posted on 8/10/03 at 09:32 PM |
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Cheers, i see your using a 20xe engine too. How did you get round the ignition problem (advancing and retarding the timing) if you dont mind me
asking?
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Ben_Copeland
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posted on 8/10/03 at 09:37 PM |
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I'll U2U u
Ben
Locost Map on Google Maps
Z20LET Astra Turbo, into a Haynes
Roadster
Enter Your Details Here
http://www.facebook.com/EquinoxProducts for all your bodywork needs!
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DaveFJ
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posted on 9/10/03 at 08:36 AM |
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Hammerite tin instructions - Second coat must be applied within 8 hours of first coat.
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kingr
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posted on 10/10/03 at 10:29 AM |
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Well, I went to a tarty halfords (rip speed is it?) and they had brake caliper paint at £20 a throw! I bought it all the same, and to it's
credit it does seem pretty good, for starters, it's two pack, and it also only requires a very thin coat to get good coverage.
Kingr
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