jambojeef
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| posted on 3/1/08 at 12:07 AM |
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Sparco Steering Wheel Mounting
So Im looking at getting a nice new steering wheel (mine is mounted slightly off-centre for 'better instrument viewing' which annoying
makes my instrument viewing worse!).
Looking at this:
http://rallynuts.com/motorsport/Race%5FSteering%5FWheels%5F2202/Sparco_285_Steering_Wheel_1718.asp
and wondered if my standard 6 hole hub which fits mountney style wheels will fit this steering wheel using only 3 bolts of course.
Anyone any idea or done it before perhaps?
Geoff
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The Great Fandango
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| posted on 3/1/08 at 01:17 AM |
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Can say for 99.999999% sure it WILL NOT fit your present Mountney setup. In fact I'd go so far as to say very little fits the 6 hole spacing of
Mountney.
You'll need to either:-
1. Buy a boss which caters for the standard racing type three hole setup (this is where the infamous snap-off boss becomes an option too).
or
2. Buy / fabricate an adaptor plate (Momo and Sparco all sell 'em) which converts (ie. bolts in between) the two setups
Hope this is of help and I'm sure others will be along in a minute to back me up (or tell me to shut up)
He Who Dies With The Most Toys Dies The Happiest
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stevebubs
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| posted on 3/1/08 at 09:07 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by The Great Fandango
2. Buy / fabricate an adaptor plate (Momo and Sparco all sell 'em) which converts (ie. bolts in between) the two setups
Got a link to one of these?
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The Great Fandango
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| posted on 3/1/08 at 10:17 AM |
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Blimin' typical!... Trying to find a link or photo for the adapter and I can't find it.
Annoyingly, I found it by accident a couple of days ago on that world wide web thing. Can't seem to land back on the same webpage.
There MIGHT be one in my photo archive as I do have one fitted. In my case, it allows a Momo steering wheel (6 holes) to attach to a RaceTech
quick-release system (3 holes)
I bought mine from a place called Larkspeed.
Larkspeed
They are an online shop with several retail outlets dotted about (including 1/2 mile from my house in Leeds).
I know that Demon Tweeks sell them too.
Will attempt to find a link in between working so keep coming back to check.
This is a photo of my adapter (the bottom left object)...
 
Steering 3
I actually set about altering mine to suit my needs...
- I had the centre lathed out to make room for the tip of the steering column and nut.
- Much of the outer surface was lathed away too. This significantly saved on weight.
- Finally, I had extra sets of three holes drilled at offset angles of 20 degrees from the originals. This allowed a degree of orientation choice once
the RaceTech 'slug' had been welded to my steering column shaft.
[Edited on 3/1/08 by The Great Fandango]
[Edited on 3/1/08 by The Great Fandango]
He Who Dies With The Most Toys Dies The Happiest
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02GF74
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| posted on 3/1/08 at 10:47 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jambojeef
wondered if my standard 6 hole hub which fits mountney style wheels will fit this steering wheel using only 3 bolts of course.
I think moutney wheels use 5 mm bolts, 6 of. I would be very concerned using half that number.
Don't know how much it takes to sheer one 5 mm bolt but the steering wheel is held to the boss by friction if bolts are done up tight so the
sheering should not come into play.
But some reassurance is that I have 13 in mountney in LR held on by stainless bolts) with no PAS and fat tyres and not had it come off yet.
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The Great Fandango
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| posted on 3/1/08 at 11:22 AM |
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Three bolts is standard for most competition systems I've seen, so I guess it's safe...
Would still take a huge amount of rotational torque to snap three bolts (be they 5mm or 6mm) and that's if your wrists don't snap
first.
The main Mountney difference from memory (apart from the 5mm or 6mm argument) is that Mountney use a different PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter).
I wrote a lengthily bit about this when I did the WSCC Racetech Bulk buy last year...
WSCC Link
[Edited on 3/1/08 by The Great Fandango]
[Edited on 3/1/08 by The Great Fandango]
He Who Dies With The Most Toys Dies The Happiest
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02GF74
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| posted on 3/1/08 at 05:16 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by The Great Fandango
Would still take a huge amount of rotational torque to snap three bolts (be they 5mm or 6mm) and that's if your wrists don't snap
first.
tht is what I am hoping
... but once you snap one, the wheel is held on by fewer bolts so those will be easier to snap.
be interesting to know the torque - unless you have driven an Land Rover off road you won't appreciate the force that can be generated when the
wheels decide to stick into a rut - that is why we drive "THUMBS OUT!".
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jambojeef
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| posted on 3/1/08 at 07:36 PM |
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Ah yeah I getcha.
Thats really useful guys thanks very much.
Kinda wondering what the best bet is now - bit limited by my sierra column.
Anyone welded one of these splined slugs onto a sierra column - did it work out ok?
GEoff
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The Great Fandango
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| posted on 3/1/08 at 11:40 PM |
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12 months ago I paid £50 to have the Racetech 'slug' welded to my Sierra (hexagonal ended) column by Paul Aspden of Plays Kool Motorsport.
Alas he no longer trades under his company. He did a cracking job with a few days turn around.
Apparently it's more difficult than people think to get the thing smack bang on straight so not for beginner welders.
Lessons learnt from having my RaceTech 'slug' welded to the column:-
1. There are hollow ended and solid ended versions of the Sierra column out there. Hollow ones are more fragile and may require either (i) cropping
down and a solid rod placing inside or (ii) a more delicate TIG weld.
2. The thickest part (collar) of the slug is wider than the top column bearing. So even if the person doing the welding job for you says they only
want the main shaft (not the housing), argue your point and give them the whole thing and ask them to weld it whilst in situ in the housing. This
unfortunately has the reverse effect... You can't withdraw the shaft from its housing without ruining the top bearing.
3. For those of you picky about having the steering wheel straight when travelling in a straight line... Trying to assess orientation of the steering
column shaft for dead straight ahead isn't easy, especially when you're playing around with it and looking to take it out. The car's
also typically standing still so you have to go with instinct. If the slug is welded on orientation (rotationally) incorrectly, then you may have to
(i) alter the tracking of the front wheels or as I did (ii) create additional off-axis fixing holes for your steering wheel.
Don't read me wrong, I LUUUURV the snap-off wheel and think both the Spa and RaceTech systems a beautiful in their design. Getting in and out of
the car is so much easier when you can detach the wheel.
NB: The slug allowed more room for my gear change paddle which encircles the top of the steering column assembly. Something you will struggle to
acheive with a typical 'boss'.
Sorry for the waffle
[Edited on 3/1/08 by The Great Fandango]
[Edited on 3/1/08 by The Great Fandango]
He Who Dies With The Most Toys Dies The Happiest
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