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Author: Subject: First problem...
Mark G

posted on 24/2/08 at 07:12 PM Reply With Quote
First problem...

Fitted my floor today and turned the chassis over. Started to fit up the suspension front and rear just to make sure I have enough nuts, bolts, bushes etc...

Anyway, fitted the N/S/R corner, no problems. Tried to fit the O/S/R corner and thats another story.

I fitted the bottom arm and the upright, fitted the shocker and then the top arm, complete with the extension. When I offered it all together the top arm and top of the upright don't line up. If I force them together I think I'll be able to get it in there but I'm worried about the effects this would have on the suspension.

Anyone got any ideas of whats wrong?








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indykid

posted on 24/2/08 at 07:16 PM Reply With Quote
can't quite remember if it'll make any difference, but would it help if you flip the top wishbone over?

it's been a while since i last saw my car, never mind the rear suspension.
tom






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Mark G

posted on 24/2/08 at 07:19 PM Reply With Quote
No, the rear wishbones are symetrical and make no odds as to which way around they fit.

That is of course assuming that there hasn't been an error in production?

Also, something else that I noticed on the rear suspension is that the shock absorber has a gap of around 2-3 mm each side of it between the rear upright. Do I have to space this with washers or something?






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g.gilo

posted on 24/2/08 at 07:19 PM Reply With Quote
wishbone

hi
is the wishbone symetrical?,

if not turn it over.

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matt_claydon

posted on 24/2/08 at 07:21 PM Reply With Quote
Mine was like that on the N/S, I ignored it and forced it together, but having had the wheel alignment measured I have dodgy geometry on that side (lots of toe out) which I put down to the poorly manufactured wishbones/chassis pickups. I should have rectified it at the time.
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Mark G

posted on 24/2/08 at 07:22 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by matt_claydon
Mine was like that on the N/S, I ignored it and forced it together, but having had the wheel alignment measured I have dodgy geometry on that side (lots of toe out) which I put down to the poorly manufactured wishbones/chassis pickups. I should have rectified it at the time.


Thats a good point too, If I force it in it'd have lots of toe in on that corner.






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jacko

posted on 24/2/08 at 07:51 PM Reply With Quote
hi have you got the bottom bone the right way up in the Mk chassis build manual the diagonal is at the rear out most i think yours is at the front i don't now if this makes a difference
Jacko

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JEPY

posted on 24/2/08 at 07:53 PM Reply With Quote
This is my near side rear - not as far out as yours but still going to be a squeeze!

Just degrease your hands when you're making it have it - bashed my knuckles plenty of time so far as they've skidded off the wishbones! Rescued attachment P2240049_small.JPG
Rescued attachment P2240049_small.JPG

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Mark G

posted on 24/2/08 at 09:33 PM Reply With Quote
I think I'll call MK tomorrow regarding this just to be sure. I don't want to have to do it again. The wishbones are all the same and don't matter which way around they go.






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RazMan

posted on 24/2/08 at 10:50 PM Reply With Quote
Although in theory the bones should be symetrical, it might still be worth flipping them over to see if the problem is a build up of tolerances.





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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Taz Surfleet

posted on 24/2/08 at 11:27 PM Reply With Quote
To quote the manual "The rear wishbones are NOT handed but should be assembled in the same way at each side according to builder’s preference" therefore they arent symetrical I'd check both sides mirror each other !!
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tomblyth

posted on 25/2/08 at 02:29 AM Reply With Quote
put the wishbones from the good side on the side your having trouble with to see if the mounting brackets are in the right place!
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Bluemoon

posted on 25/2/08 at 09:37 AM Reply With Quote
As said try swapping (NS/OS) and turning over the top bone, you might also try swapping lower bone/turning over and or upright. Assuming tolerances adding up being the problem.

Not fun as they can be quite tight.

Dan

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Mark G

posted on 25/2/08 at 10:25 PM Reply With Quote
I turned the top arm over today and it was not totally straight but definately better and I was comfortable to fit it as it is, so that problem is no longer.

Whilst I have you all thinking on the lines of rear suspension, should I have some spacers for the shocker or shall I just pack it with washers? What have you done?








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tomblyth

posted on 25/2/08 at 10:39 PM Reply With Quote
1/2 inch bolt (not 12mm) as hole in my gaz was 1/2 inch to give tight fit! 4 s/steel washers each side ! Job Done
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RazMan

posted on 25/2/08 at 11:21 PM Reply With Quote
Stainless washers - you can then vary the thickness accordingly.





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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Mark G

posted on 25/2/08 at 11:38 PM Reply With Quote
Cool, Thanks guys






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Bluemoon

posted on 26/2/08 at 12:19 PM Reply With Quote
I used washers as well. I guess you should use a spacer but once all done up I doubt it's and issue.. Although I have used quite thick washers..

Dan

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Bluemoon

posted on 26/2/08 at 12:21 PM Reply With Quote
buy the way you might want the adjuster for the damper pointing into the car.. Then you can get to it with the wheel on..

Dan

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Mark G

posted on 26/2/08 at 06:05 PM Reply With Quote
Although I don't actually have any wheels yet, I'll take on your suggestion and future proof my suspension in the inverted manor you so kindly pointed out.

Thankyou.






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