matt.c
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 posted on 3/9/08 at 09:05 PM |
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Brake bias setup (Again)
Now i have all the air out of the system im trying to set up the bias.
1. Why is there more thread on one side of the bar than the other?
2. When i adjust the bar from side to side it doesn't seem to make any difference on the brake pressure from front to rear ie when the pedal is
pushed should it end up that the bar will be tilted to one side.
3. In one of the pics it shows that the bearing on the pedal is to one side ie to the front cylinder but when i screw it to the other side i have no
thread left to put the locking nut on. Have i got the bar the wrong way around?
4. I have the master cylinders both screwed in the same amount, is this right or do i set these up differently?
5. How do i lock the nuts? do i have to drill through the bar with the nuts tight against the bias or can i just thread them on a little way and then
drill them?
 
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Many thanks for any help you can give me on setting these up as i have a brake test on sat morning.
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coozer
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| posted on 4/9/08 at 07:30 AM |
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is the centre bearing free to move in the pedal and is it over towards the front M/C?
You won't notice any difference on the pedal pressure, you need t oget out in it and hammer the brakes on to make sure the front locks first.
I went along to SVA with it wound for max front bias, he checkedthe brakes then asked me to drill and pin.
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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jambojeef
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| posted on 4/9/08 at 11:13 AM |
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This is a bit of black art!
If you have the right master cylinder dia. on both front and rear then aim for a set-up in the first instance where the pedal can give full travel and
is in a suitable position when resting (do this by screwing the actuator rods of the master cylinders into or out of the aluminium bearing blocks at
either end of your balance bar) You should then make sure that the actuator rods are square to the bodies of the master cylinders and when the pedal
is pushed they slide smoothly without any odd angles.
Once you have this set-up it is simply a case of screwing the bar one way or the other to get the balance right.
The best way to do this is to jack the car up so all 4 wheels are off the ground and get an assitant (beautiful or otherwise) to apply the brakes
until the fronts cannot be turned by hand - the rears should not have as much line pressure and be easier to turn.
Once you have found that point you must drill and roll-pin the balance bar to its its locking nuts - I found this so hard to do in situ that I
threaded and welded a flexible extension into the end of my balance bar and roll pinned that. Technically it wasnt as good but passed SVA and hasnt
shifted about.
My intention was to make a remote adjuster but I havent bothered yet.
If any pics would be useful let me know and I'll stick some up.
Hope that helps?!!
Geoff
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Mix
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| posted on 4/9/08 at 04:00 PM |
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Hi
Go to the brake manufactures web sites, (Willwood, AP etc,), there are really good explanations of how to set up balance bar braking systems there.
Probably the best place to get advice from in this case.
Regards Mick
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