seat runner
blakep82 - 30/3/11 at 01:26 PM
not really needing seat runners, but they might help matters...
when installing seat runners, do you seperate the top and bottom halfs, bolt the bottoms in, then slide the tops on?
having a nightmare with finding seats i can install, and been through more seats than i want to remember. they're not cheap either... lol
if they come apart, they might be the answer. that or they might be another expensive try, and i'm going to have to take the floors off the car
to fit them.
Bluemoon - 30/3/11 at 01:53 PM
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
not really needing seat runners, but they might help matters...
when installing seat runners, do you seperate the top and bottom halfs, bolt the bottoms in, then slide the tops on?
having a nightmare with finding seats i can install, and been through more seats than i want to remember. they're not cheap either... lol
if they come apart, they might be the answer. that or they might be another expensive try, and i'm going to have to take the floors off the car
to fit them.
Probably best to say what the problem is, in my case I have catervan seats with runners, they don't come apart, I have bolted them though the
floor with two bolts per runner (ends of) into a the two steel strips that run across the floor of the Indy. The catervan runners come attached to
~6mm steel strips, the runners are to thin to be self supporting..
Dan
blakep82 - 30/3/11 at 01:59 PM
you can kind of see from this photo
what it doesn't show is the steel tube across the front, which means you can't get a hand in to bolt seats in next to the tunnel. either the
floor has to come off, or at least drill holes in the floor to get bolts up from underneath. all seats are the same. and if i use side mounted seats,
they end up too high for the top harness mounts, and you can't get bolts in the tunnel side again.
i think its going to be a floor off or drilled job. could probably do with some drain holes in the floors anyway...
Bluemoon - 30/3/11 at 02:19 PM
Couple of options I think:
1) You could drill the floor to allow access to the mounting rail. If you choose the correct size hole you can fit a rubber blanking grommet. Make the
hole big enough to get at least a cap-head bolt through.
2) If the seat is not part of the seatbelt mounting I might consider a blind fixing such as a large steel rive-nuts (M8 maybe)??
Dan
Bluemoon - 30/3/11 at 02:21 PM
Looking a the belt mounts not sure Mr/Mrs IVA will like might be worth thinking about that as well..
Dan
blakep82 - 30/3/11 at 02:40 PM
ah yeah, i just put them in like that to sit in and try it out a few years ago. got clip in belts now, with eye bolts to go in once i get round to
doing all the drilling, so don't worry about that.
drilling the floor for cap heads is what i'll do. i've got a set of cobra seats which i wasn't going to use, and go for folded steel
seats, but think i'll come across the same problems, so back to the cobra ones again. they have fixings in the bottoms of them. M8 i think. so
i'll bolt up from underneath, probably with stainless bolts.
my drillings usually not very good though lol
Bluemoon - 30/3/11 at 03:10 PM
You might find it easiest to drill the 8.5mm clearance hole from the top, through both layers, then drill the M8 cap head clearance hole from the
bottom (using the first hole to guide your drill)..
The only problem I can see is if you want to put a load spreading washer under the cap-head. Not sure this is need though as the seat will not take
much loading as the seat belts will do all that in a collision.. If you want a washer you might be able to epoxy on on the back, to old in place when
you mount the seat??
Dan