opinion on these seat belt anchorages and the options
killerferret666 - 3/3/14 at 11:03 AM
So the chassis I got is from america and the rules there are nothing like our rules...I mean nothing...Im not even sure they have rules for their
test.
does it move by itself ...check
can it stop...check
you're good to go!
so the seatbelt anchorages are seam welded plates on to the chassis main rails, the metal plates are about 10mm thick. no Triangulation though....
The photos below show how they currently are and im after peoples thoughts.
1. Do you think they would be ok how they are?
2.The solution for the top mount would the red triangle support be out far enough, (this would be my ideal as well be hid under insulation and carpet)
or does it require the green outline (shown on mount in background of 1st pic). the long eye is because i need to move the mount for the belt up about
20mm to meet requirements.
3. The seat belt floor / side mounts. Im never going to be able to weld in that space. So the solution I have thought of is get some box section weld
in both sides a threaded rod. remove the old mount and then weld the box section on to the chassis in its place and to the floor. (can ignore the wire
throttle cable holding that was to allow me to test)
Thoughts welcome!
[Edited on 3/3/14 by killerferret666]
40inches - 3/3/14 at 02:09 PM
With the top one, I would go with the green bracing, if possible.
The bottom ones. I would bolt/rivet a 4mm plate, with a nut welded underneath, beneath the floor and fit a spacer between the floor and existing
mount. I did something similar with my outside mounts, passed IVA with no problem.
killerferret666 - 3/3/14 at 02:20 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
With the top one, I would go with the green bracing, if possible.
The bottom ones. I would bolt/rivet a 4mm plate, with a nut welded underneath, beneath the floor and fit a spacer between the floor and existing
mount. I did something similar with my outside mounts, passed IVA with no problem.
thanks for the reply, the green is possible but not ideal in just terms of the look.
As for the bottom ones, that idea is something that may be possible.
1) did you weld the spacer into place top and bottom (seam welding that of course wont be possible)
2) the plate in the floor, was your floor a structural area or just floor pan, as my plate would just be on the bottom of the floor pan.
Thanks again!
[Edited on 3/3/14 by killerferret666]
40inches - 3/3/14 at 02:50 PM
The plate was around 100mm square, 2 rivets into the bottom of the outside chassis member, 2 M8 bolts through the floor.
The spacer just a tight fit, and clamped when the harness bolt was tightened.
Imagine a plate similar to
this, but thicker and any
size you like.
For the inside mounts, you could make the plate rectangular, to span both mounts and the chassis rails.
The Black Flash - 3/3/14 at 11:53 PM
Which way's the direction of pull? Up and to the right I guess?
killerferret666 - 4/3/14 at 08:27 AM
quote:
Originally posted by The Black Flash
Which way's the direction of pull? Up and to the right I guess?
for the bottom anchorage;
Yep and up to the right. The chair is on runners so depends on runner position, but it will be still slightly to the right when set to 120 odd mm from
the furthest back position.
The Black Flash - 4/3/14 at 08:52 PM
Well not being an engineer it's hard to say for sure. They're pretty thick plates. But if it were me I'd put the maximum amount of
triangulation in, just because it would look more right.
I very much doubt that it'll make a noticable difference to the final look...it'll be one of those things that you'll know, but nobody
else will notice.
gremlin1234 - 4/3/14 at 09:12 PM
in the top ones, why do you need a bolt on eye?, much stronger just fixing direct to the bracket.
but also:
are they high enough?
killerferret666 - 4/3/14 at 11:04 PM
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
in the top ones, why do you need a bolt on eye?, much stronger just fixing direct to the bracket.
but also:
are they high enough?
What do you mean fixing direct? Excuse my stupidity lol
Doesn't have to be an eye I just wanted one for testing what length I'd need.
Their current position is roughly 20mm too low so will need spacers on top.
steve m - 5/3/14 at 07:17 AM
What about cutting the steel plates off, and drilling a hole through the bulkhead, and sticking the eye bolt through the hole
with a nut and washer either side ?
has to be a lot neater, stronger
steve
killerferret666 - 5/3/14 at 08:24 AM
quote:
Originally posted by steve m
What about cutting the steel plates off, and drilling a hole through the bulkhead, and sticking the eye bolt through the hole
with a nut and washer either side ?
has to be a lot neater, stronger
steve
Hi Steve, I actually like that idea the most, like you say neater and stronger....however the top mounts are too low by about 20mm so would be too low
directly through the chassis and the bottom ones I wouldn't be able to drill a hole and screw from the tunnel behind in the centre as it would
foul on the coolant pipes that are in the tunnel and then fail on that.
[Edited on 5/3/14 by killerferret666]
The Black Flash - 5/3/14 at 10:21 AM
Re: the spacers, again I am not an engineer, but the eyes on mine screw into long threaded bosses - probably with about an inch of thread. I'm
not sure I'd be happy with it just going into a nut, then being spaced out by an inch, if that's what you meant? It feels as if that would
apply an awful lot of leverage on things.
It may or may not help but bear in mind that it's not the mountings which have to be at a certain height - it's the effective path of the
belt. Your mounts could be on the floor, if the belt passed up and over a solid round bar which was at the right height. So you could maybe get some
lengths of 20mm tube and bolt/weld it along the top of your main chassis tube, run the belts over that, then put new mounts in lower down. Though I
guess that might put them in the engine bay 
killerferret666 - 5/3/14 at 10:43 AM
quote:
Originally posted by The Black Flash
Re: the spacers, again I am not an engineer, but the eyes on mine screw into long threaded bosses - probably with about an inch of thread. I'm
not sure I'd be happy with it just going into a nut, then being spaced out by an inch, if that's what you meant? It feels as if that would
apply an awful lot of leverage on things.
It may or may not help but bear in mind that it's not the mountings which have to be at a certain height - it's the effective path of the
belt. Your mounts could be on the floor, if the belt passed up and over a solid round bar which was at the right height. So you could maybe get some
lengths of 20mm tube and bolt/weld it along the top of your main chassis tube, run the belts over that, then put new mounts in lower down. Though I
guess that might put them in the engine bay
I agree,
* I think the top mounts I'll go with a threaded boss welded into / through the mounting bracket with triangulation - That should be the top
mounts sorted without any issues and get the belts up to the required point without any extra welding.
* The bottom I'm thinking the plate under the floor with a welded nut as suggested, bolted through the floor plan and riverted to the chassis
rail to the side. Spacers between the main plate and floor.
All the above using bolts and not eyes to ensure I can get them as tight as required.
This almost sounds like a plan!
killerferret666 - 19/3/14 at 01:43 PM
Do the nuts on the top anchorage have to be welded or because they are accessible can be locking nylon nuts?
40inches - 19/3/14 at 03:50 PM
If the nut is easily accessible, a Nyloc would be fine