maybe a really stupid question but how are you supposed to bolt seats in?
I have a pair, fibre glass with black pvc covering (not the ones in photo in rci seats post), that have no fixings so would need to be drilled.
Obvious place is the base but I don't want to be sitting on a bolt 
I also want to keep the seats as low as possible and fixed in postion so no complicated runners.
Ideas and pictures please!
[Edited on 10/1/06 by 02GF74]
Best to say who's they are, different makes use diffent fixings !! 
If there Tritons, they use an insert from beneath, so no bolt heads showing
Jason
would it be better then to make some brackets up each side
ive seen it done somewhere rally cars i think???????
decide how much u want for your seats yet??
If you can lift up the trim in the base, you could fix them how mine are done: carriage bolts with dome heads and a square section below the head.
Then there is a rectangular "base" for each bolt, with a square hole to catch the underneath of the bolt head, and a sort of butterfly shape
side view. The bolt goes down through the seat base and the floor. Here's a very bad attempt to show what I mean.
[Edited on 10.01.2006 by Humbug]
Rescued attachment Seat bolt.jpg
The standard bucket seats (Cobra etc) have L shaped alloy side mounts which bolt into captive nuts moulded into the seats. They then bolt directly to
the floor.
I didn;t know but looking in kit car mag I've identified them to be Intatrim Odyssey, sold by Europa for an jaw dropping £ 165 !!!!!!
I also see on their website that do seat runners, but these raise the seat 1 inch so not ideal and from memory there may be rails in the way where the
runners would go. 
There may be nuts in the sides but I would need to lift the vinyl - someone out there will be using these seat so will know for sure.
[Edited on 11/1/06 by 02GF74]
If this is what you have then pull the seat padding (bit you sit on) forward, It's held down with velcro. There you will see the fiber glass seat
bottom. I have similar seats and just popped 4 bolts through with big penny washers to spread the load. I can't feel the bolt heads (big
arse=extra padding!!) You could use coach bolts.
[Edited on 11/1/06 by donut]
the back and side trim is glued to the base but the front is stapled
having thought aboput it and read replies - thanks!; options seem to be:
1. sides - right angled ali/steel with bolts on the side; excess weight!
2. fibreglass a metal plate to the base with bolts - don't think this would be strong enough; else so much fibreglasswould be needed it would
raise seats further
3. a penny washer welded to a headless bolt through the base; or simpler coach bolt/button head or countersunk heads and plate/penny washer
opt. 3 is the simplest although 1. would mean there is not change of ending up sitting on a bolt.
re: opt 3. what diameter bolts? 8 mm? or 10 mm? (one on each corner)
4 x M8 will be plenty strong enough 
quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
4 x M8 will be plenty strong enough
The seat lifts from the back, it's just held with velco, give it a yank!
[img][/img]
donut - you are as kit car seating god!!
correct - the back is held in by velcro and by the looks of things, there is sufficnetin padding for a hex head bolt (will try a s.steel button head
or else a roofing bolt).
good job you told me otherwise I would have started pulling the covering off the base!!!
with mine to save taking the seats apart i drilled four keyhole shaped holes in the bottom of the seat .dropped the bolt into the biggest part of the hole then slid it down the narrower part fixing in place with some expanding foam ( just small amount. just make sure key holes go from side to side with the keyholes running in opposite directions( my opinion is its slightly safer ) . this make sense as im writing it but there again i know what i mean. cheers scott