I have just finished my second dash, and it still looks crap!

I've tried to make it padded etc, but it just looks shit..............

So here goes with number 3......

Am I correct in thinking that the only rule(s) for a dash are no sharp edges (below 2mm) and the bottom edge must be radius'ed to 19mm?

As time is marching on and I could come back to it, I am planning on using a 19mm thick piece of MDF. Putting a full radius on the bottom with a router, sticky back vinyl, hole for clocks and switches, job done.
It sounds back to basics, but would it get through a SVA in principle.

Cheers in advance,

The Baron

Thats how mine was done although I used some stuff to waterproof the MDF. Can't remember what it was .

Standard PVA (watered down if you want to save a few pennies) will waterproof MDF fine...

Chris

I know what you mean about the padded dash. IMHO it is very hard to make a padded dash that does not look 'homemade'.
Weve all seen the ones at the shows that have BIG wrinkles in then that ruin the effect.
The hardest problem I had was around the rims of the gauges, it was virtually impossible to get it looking half decent.
In the end I went for the no padding approach, with a bit of router work to round off the edges/make insets.

I should just say ,it possible to make a VERY good padded dash as several people on this site have shown!

[Edited on 4/6/06 by PaulBuz]
Rescued attachment ebay stuff 204.jpg

Paul G

nice dash, may i ask where you got your dial from
cheers
richard

Thanks
The gauges are smiths telemetrix range.