Guys,

What material(s) have you used (or plan to use) for your dash panels?

What thickness have you used?
What strengthening methods have you used?
Does it flex at all when pressed?
What method have you used to attach it to the scuttle?

Reason I ask is that we've just made up our panel template using 6mm ply and fitted all the clocks plus switches etc and it's fairly flexible. We were going to use 16swg aluminium with a plastic face panel in a sandwich but given the amount that the ply flexes when I push the starter button I'm thinking this won't be strong enough.

All wild and whacky ideas appreciated

12mm MDF. Easy to cut and sand to get that nice SVA radius, covered in vinyl looks good. Before you cover fit some 6mm captive bolts, counter sink and fill and easy to bolt to scuttle, use wing nuts and whole lot comes off in 2 mins. From a safety point of view if a ply dash breaks in a crash you end up with sharp splinters, MDF just breaks up into bits. Worth treating any uncovered area (dash back) to some water proofer just in case it gets damp. Cut out a spare blank while you've got the jigsaw out as you are bound to want to change it once you've driven the car.

Some timber suppliers now have an exterior grade MDF you could try. If you have a router you could use that to round the bottom edge, gives a very good finish.

yours, Pete.

Watch out for the waterproof MDF ('exterior grade' ) - the dust is reckoned to be very harmful, apparently due to the glue used in its manufacture (phenol-formaldehyde) ...and a router throws out a lot of dust. The regular stuff is bad enough - people can develop allergic reactions from the glue used in the ordinary MDF (urea formaldehyde).

It's very hard to find a supplier of the waterproof MDF in my area - at least, one who will sell you less than a whole sheet. B&Q don't/won't sell the stuff, and it seems that only trade suppliers stock it (Jewsons, etc.). This is a real b*gg*r when you've only got a little car...

This problem is manageable - you just need to take a lot of care to keep the dust out of your lungs (dust collection, masks, vacuum cleaners, etc.). You should also try to keep it off your skin as much as possible, to avoid an allergic rash.

Here's a reference, in case you think I've made all of this up...

http://www.gpmu.org.uk/hs/health/msg00009.html

cheers,

David


[Edited on 23/6/03 by David Jenkins]

I think i heard that MDF is carcenegenic (sp?) if u get it in your lungs

Or am i chatting bull?

[Edited on 23/6/03 by greggors84]

I don't know about carcinogenic, but it can make you bl**dy ill if you're stupid about dust management.

They don't tell you that in all those home DIY shows on TV, either!

David

They do kinda mention MDF being nasty on Changing Rooms not that I watch it (the wife told me)

Anyway thanks all for the replies so far. The only concern I have with MDF at 6mm is that I've got 12mm thick pieces that have been standing in the garage that have warped. Although the dash would be covered, I can't help wondering if after a while the dash will look like a donkeys hind leg.

Not that I won't be trying a bit of MDF but has anyone else tried anything different?

ANY fine dust can be carcinogenic if inhaled... (including Talcum powder!)

It is due to the way the lungs react to fine dust particles not the neccesarily what the particles are (although MDF doesnt help!)

quote:

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Originally posted by andyd
... The only concern I have with MDF at 6mm is that...

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Thats it, its something to do with the dust particles, same as why abestos is so bad for you.

Not got that far myself yet, but how about constructing a framework for the panel to lie against, just a simple ladder frame type affair, so that you don't have the big gaps between supports.

quote:

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Originally posted by andyd
So I ask again any other ideas (about the dash panel that is not the dangers of fine dust)? I didn't expect this thread to turn into a medical encylopedia style thread

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MDF is indeed toxic.

It is however the best to use as it resits warping very well. You could use a hardwood and then competely seal it.

An epoxy coated foam piece could work as well.

Have I missed something? what is wrong with aluminium alloy ? Light, relatively cheap and easy to work. That's the way I'm thinking of going at the moment.

Mick

Thanks guys.

Mix you haven't missed the point. At 42" wide a piece of 16SWG aluminium flexes quite badly. All I wanted to get an idea of was whether everyone else had plumped for one particular material/method which they all found acceptable.

In terms of the suggestions given so far and after a little experimenting last night I think we'll be going for the 16SWG ally with a rolled over (under?) bottom edge. This gives the entire length a lot more ridgidity. We will then be using a separate panel for the centre piece down to the tranny tunnel which we'll also roll the edges on. If the edges still aren't a decent radius then we'll have to cover them with plastic edging.

I still think MDF would be way too heavy when we are trying to keep the weight done below 500kg (it's a BEC).

By the time you have cut instrument holes warning lights and steering stalks there aint much left. I thought the same about weight but was surprised how little it was. Try 9 or 10mm thick if too much. The main reason I used it is that it is so easy to get a good finish, especially around the dash bottom radius.

quote:

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Originally posted by zetec
By the time you have cut instrument holes warning lights and steering stalks there aint much left.

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since mdf has no grain, it isnt as rigid as ply, but personally id go with the ally with rolled bottom for extra rigidity. also, if you dont like the dust, mdf has also been connected to cancer, as well as the other obvious bad points of fine dust. that was one of the first things they told us at joinery college. if youre using wood tho id go with marine ply (grade a or b is usually about 1ply per mm of thickness so is quite rigid). if its too flexible to use without a brace anyway, why not use 6mm ply with bracing behind? i would stick about a 25mm piece of timber to the back right on the bottom edge so as to get a better radius than the 6mm ply will allow. but again, id go with the ally

A chippy friend of mine suggested facia board, it is plastic, obviously waterproof, easily worked and light - I am still waiting for him to get me a bit to try

I've now decided on a sandwich ally construction. Basically the "front" panel will sit over the scuttle face edge and extend down to the tranny tunnel. This will have an edge put on it (not decided what yet) and then covered in thin foam and black vinyl. Red piping will then run round the top edge where it butts to the scuttle. It will be fixed with 6mm countersunk bolts. Then to give it strength, another internal ally piece will be sandwiched behind the scuttle but not extending all the way down to the tunnel. This panel will have a rolled bottom to give it it's lateral rigidity and this rolled edge will then be used to "hook" a third piece which will do two things. First cover up all the under scuttle gubbins and second give the whole thing even more inflexibility.

All in all it'll prolly weigh more than the mdf but hey ho!

I'm just making mine using a bit of plastic facia board - the stuff that goes on the soffets of a house. Its quite light, rigid, easy to cut and has a 2 inch lip on one edge. I intend to glue a bit of half round something (maybe wood mayble pipe lagging) and cover with vynal to get the SVA radius

carbon fiber? fluke motorsport do one and i think (may be wrong) that gaz does them too..

regards
roja