Board logo

Seat Chassis Hole Marking ????
Avoneer - 9/6/07 at 05:27 PM

Anyone any tips on how to mark my floor for drilling?

And don't say with a sharpie!

Seat has two lengths of box section on each side (on the bottom) running from the front of the seat to the back of the seat, bolted onto the bottom of the seat as the seat base has threaded inserts embedded in the fibreglass.

My chassis has two 3mm bars running across tjhe chassis.

What's a good way of marking the 3mm bars for drilling?

No chance of getting a pen down either side when the seat is in situ.

Thanks,

Pat...


theconrodkid - 9/6/07 at 05:34 PM

i got some cardboard and attached that to the seat runners with masking tape,poked holes where bolts would go.put seats in where you want them,tape the card to the floor and un-stick the card from runners,as seen on blue peter


DIY Si - 9/6/07 at 05:55 PM

What I did last time was to get 4 spare bolts, grind them to a point that stuck out of the seat by a few mm. Then put seat in place and sit in it. You then have 4 marks which will also help you start the drill.


rusty nuts - 9/6/07 at 06:54 PM

Place seat in position and use a scriber , the type with a right angled end. Worked for me


stevebubs - 9/6/07 at 07:05 PM

cardboard templates that protrude from the front of the seats...


stevebubs - 9/6/07 at 07:06 PM

quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
cardboard templates that protrude from the front of the seats...


reading rest of thread - Just as conrod said


Avoneer - 9/6/07 at 09:34 PM

Just worked out that I want to raise the seat a little so....

1) Cut two 25mm box lengths and put them on top of the 3mm bars and the drill straight through and bolt them down through the 3mm bars and floor.

2) Put 4 dobs of body filler (great adhesive) on the newly bolted box sections.

3) Drop the seat into the car and wiggle it into position.

4) Wait a few hours.

5) Unbolt the cross bars from under the floor.

6) Lift the seat out with cross bars adhered to the bars already bolted to the bottom of the seat.

7) Weld the cross bars to the bars already fitted to the bottom of the seats.

That'd work wouldn't it?

Pat...


Avoneer - 9/6/07 at 09:35 PM

Oh, just to clarify:

Not using runners.

Pat...


Avoneer - 9/6/07 at 11:40 PM

Thought of that - but that's a one drop situation and I want to wiggle the seat amd make sure it's spot on.

Pat...


DIY Si - 9/6/07 at 11:45 PM

Should work. Just make sure you don't move the seat standing up, or it'll be a bit out. Maybe get someone to give you a hand so you can almost be lifted out?


stevebubs - 10/6/07 at 12:12 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer

That'd work wouldn't it?

Pat...


Think so.


RazMan - 10/6/07 at 07:33 AM

I went with DIY Si's method of pointy bolt ends & cardboard when I fitted my seats. Nice and simple and it worked surprisingly well


Avoneer - 10/6/07 at 07:36 AM

Yeah, but the inserts in the bottom of the seats aren't in the same place as where the 3mm bars across the chassis are.

Pat...


RazMan - 10/6/07 at 09:42 AM

In which case, how about attaching a couple of spreader plates to the chassis rail first? That would give you loads of room to move the seats wherever you need them to go.

Just a thought ...


Peteff - 10/6/07 at 10:04 AM

at the right width spacing then drill a series of holes in it to correspond to the bottom of your seat so they are lightened and adjustable as well. I tacked the bolts into my seat bearers so they were captive as there is no way to get a spanner under there.


Avoneer - 10/6/07 at 11:24 AM

The inserts are embedded into the bottom of the seats and you can't access them from above.

MK type seats.

Pat...