Slimy38
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| posted on 8/9/13 at 08:50 AM |
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How is this done?
From the Tiger Avon build book, there are a couple of pictures relating to handbrake mounting;
But how do you build an inlay into the transmission tunnel without compromising the strength of the tunnel? The MX5 handbrake is side mounted and it
seems like the best combination, I just can't figure out how to do it.
[Edited on 8/9/13 by Slimy38]
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jps
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| posted on 8/9/13 at 09:01 AM |
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for the sierra handbrake i guess you'd just have a pair of u shaped brackets coming down from the top rails in the transmission tunnel? like
the haynes .book' brackets but extneded towards the floor. done in 3mm plate with some guesseting I am sure they'd be strong enough.
clearance on the prop is the only issue I could foresee?
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JacksAvon
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| posted on 8/9/13 at 09:41 AM |
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Looks like a R6 tunnel cover to me
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Slimy38
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| posted on 8/9/13 at 10:29 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jps
for the sierra handbrake i guess you'd just have a pair of u shaped brackets coming down from the top rails in the transmission tunnel? like
the haynes .book' brackets but extneded towards the floor. done in 3mm plate with some guesseting I am sure they'd be strong enough.
clearance on the prop is the only issue I could foresee?
That's what I couldn't see though, it looks like I'd have to actually cut the top rails to get the insert in place rather than
fixing brackets to it. And that would instantly lose the strength as it would no longer be a complete top rail.
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DIY Si
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| posted on 8/9/13 at 10:35 AM |
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Would the cover panel extend up/out beyond the existing rails, leaving a space for the lever to go down into? Or it could have a cage round the cut
out to maintain the strength?
When I do the same for the backbone in my Sprite, it'll probably have a cage round the space needed for the handbrake I think.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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Slimy38
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| posted on 8/9/13 at 11:06 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DIY Si
Would the cover panel extend up/out beyond the existing rails, leaving a space for the lever to go down into? Or it could have a cage round the cut
out to maintain the strength?
When I do the same for the backbone in my Sprite, it'll probably have a cage round the space needed for the handbrake I think.
Ah ok, that might be an idea. It only needs to be about an inch higher just to have some sort of indent. Out isn't an option unfortunately,
I've already got to trim down my seats somehow to fit so I can't sacrifice any more.
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snapper
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| posted on 8/9/13 at 11:52 AM |
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Another tube lower down and triangulate to it
You won't loose any strength if you do it right
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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jps
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| posted on 8/9/13 at 03:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
quote:
Originally posted by jps
for the sierra handbrake i guess you'd just have a pair of u shaped brackets coming down from the top rails in the transmission tunnel? like
the haynes .book' brackets but extneded towards the floor. done in 3mm plate with some guesseting I am sure they'd be strong enough.
clearance on the prop is the only issue I could foresee?
That's what I couldn't see though, it looks like I'd have to actually cut the top rails to get the insert in place rather than
fixing brackets to it. And that would instantly lose the strength as it would no longer be a complete top rail.
yeah, sorry, should have thought before posting! I reckon snapper is correct, either drop and gusset the rail on one side or just have a cut out
section around whee you want the lever to recess.
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Joshy
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| posted on 8/9/13 at 06:03 PM |
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I have lowered my handbrake mounts 40mm from what the book suggests - I found the book location to be highly uncomfortable (I'm only 5"6).
Not the best photo but you get the idea:
The front mount is a from 1" angle strip and the rear mount is flat strip with 19mm box section to lower it from the TT top rails.
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