andyd
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| posted on 22/6/03 at 02:16 PM |
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Which material(s) for dash panel?
Guys,
What material(s) have you used (or plan to use) for your dash panels?
What thickness have you used?
What strengthening methods have you used?
Does it flex at all when pressed?
What method have you used to attach it to the scuttle?
Reason I ask is that we've just made up our panel template using 6mm ply and fitted all the clocks plus switches etc and it's fairly
flexible. We were going to use 16swg aluminium with a plastic face panel in a sandwich but given the amount that the ply flexes when I push the
starter button I'm thinking this won't be strong enough.
All wild and whacky ideas appreciated 
Andy
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zetec
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| posted on 22/6/03 at 05:07 PM |
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12mm MDF. Easy to cut and sand to get that nice SVA radius, covered in vinyl looks good. Before you cover fit some 6mm captive bolts, counter sink and
fill and easy to bolt to scuttle, use wing nuts and whole lot comes off in 2 mins. From a safety point of view if a ply dash breaks in a crash you end
up with sharp splinters, MDF just breaks up into bits. Worth treating any uncovered area (dash back) to some water proofer just in case it gets damp.
Cut out a spare blank while you've got the jigsaw out as you are bound to want to change it once you've driven the car.
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Peteff
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| posted on 23/6/03 at 09:32 AM |
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Exterior grade.
Some timber suppliers now have an exterior grade MDF you could try. If you have a router you could use that to round the bottom edge, gives a very
good finish.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 23/6/03 at 09:49 AM |
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Watch out for the waterproof MDF ('exterior grade' ) - the dust is reckoned to be very harmful, apparently due to the glue used in its
manufacture (phenol-formaldehyde) ...and a router throws out a lot of dust. The regular stuff is bad enough - people can develop allergic reactions
from the glue used in the ordinary MDF (urea formaldehyde).
It's very hard to find a supplier of the waterproof MDF in my area - at least, one who will sell you less than a whole sheet. B&Q
don't/won't sell the stuff, and it seems that only trade suppliers stock it (Jewsons, etc.). This is a real b*gg*r when you've only
got a little car...
This problem is manageable - you just need to take a lot of care to keep the dust out of your lungs (dust collection, masks, vacuum cleaners, etc.).
You should also try to keep it off your skin as much as possible, to avoid an allergic rash.
Here's a reference, in case you think I've made all of this up... 
http://www.gpmu.org.uk/hs/health/msg00009.html
cheers,
David
[Edited on 23/6/03 by David Jenkins]
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greggors84
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| posted on 23/6/03 at 08:18 PM |
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I think i heard that MDF is carcenegenic (sp?) if u get it in your lungs
Or am i chatting bull?
[Edited on 23/6/03 by greggors84]
Chris
The Magnificent 7!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 24/6/03 at 07:30 AM |
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I don't know about carcinogenic, but it can make you bl**dy ill if you're stupid about dust management.
They don't tell you that in all those home DIY shows on TV, either!
David
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andyd
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| posted on 24/6/03 at 08:03 AM |
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They do kinda mention MDF being nasty on Changing Rooms not that I watch it (the wife told me)
Anyway thanks all for the replies so far. The only concern I have with MDF at 6mm is that I've got 12mm thick pieces that have been standing in
the garage that have warped. Although the dash would be covered, I can't help wondering if after a while the dash will look like a donkeys hind
leg. 
Not that I won't be trying a bit of MDF but has anyone else tried anything different?
Andy
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 24/6/03 at 09:07 AM |
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ANY fine dust can be carcinogenic if inhaled... (including Talcum powder!)
It is due to the way the lungs react to fine dust particles not the neccesarily what the particles are (although MDF doesnt help!)
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andyd
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| posted on 24/6/03 at 01:16 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andyd
... The only concern I have with MDF at 6mm is that...
Just realised that zetec actually said 12mm not what I thought he said which was 6mm. All this does however is confirm to me that 12mm MDF is damn
heavy.
So I ask again any other ideas (about the dash panel that is not the dangers of fine dust)? I didn't expect this thread to turn into a medical
encylopedia style thread
Andy
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greggors84
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| posted on 24/6/03 at 01:18 PM |
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Thats it, its something to do with the dust particles, same as why abestos is so bad for you.
Chris
The Magnificent 7!
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GO
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| posted on 24/6/03 at 01:19 PM |
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Not got that far myself yet, but how about constructing a framework for the panel to lie against, just a simple ladder frame type affair, so that you
don't have the big gaps between supports.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 24/6/03 at 01:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andyd
So I ask again any other ideas (about the dash panel that is not the dangers of fine dust)? I didn't expect this thread to turn into a medical
encylopedia style thread
Fair comment! Back to the plot...
I used 12mm marine ply, backed up with strips of hardwood. The instruments are mounted in cut-outs on pieces of 1/8" Formica-like stuff, which
is screwed to the back of the ply. The edges of the cut-outs were rounded over using a router.
The general arrangement can be seen in my photo archive. I'm not 100% happy with the finish used (matt black) but that's easy enough to
fix.
cheers,
David
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MattWatson
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| posted on 24/6/03 at 02:31 PM |
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MDF is indeed toxic.
It is however the best to use as it resits warping very well. You could use a hardwood and then competely seal it.
An epoxy coated foam piece could work as well.
Matt Watson
--------------------------------
VW 1.6L SOHC Turbo Mid engined car
http://members.shaw.ca/wavindustries/
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Mix
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| posted on 24/6/03 at 05:48 PM |
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Have I missed something? what is wrong with aluminium alloy ? Light, relatively cheap and easy to work. That's the way I'm thinking of
going at the moment.
Mick
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andyd
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| posted on 25/6/03 at 07:54 AM |
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Thanks guys.
Mix you haven't missed the point. At 42" wide a piece of 16SWG aluminium flexes quite badly. All I wanted to get an idea of was whether
everyone else had plumped for one particular material/method which they all found acceptable.
In terms of the suggestions given so far and after a little experimenting last night I think we'll be going for the 16SWG ally with a rolled
over (under?) bottom edge. This gives the entire length a lot more ridgidity. We will then be using a separate panel for the centre piece down to
the tranny tunnel which we'll also roll the edges on. If the edges still aren't a decent radius then we'll have to cover them with
plastic edging.
I still think MDF would be way too heavy when we are trying to keep the weight done below 500kg (it's a BEC).
Andy
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zetec
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| posted on 25/6/03 at 01:33 PM |
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By the time you have cut instrument holes warning lights and steering stalks there aint much left. I thought the same about weight but was surprised
how little it was. Try 9 or 10mm thick if too much. The main reason I used it is that it is so easy to get a good finish, especially around the dash
bottom radius.
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andyd
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| posted on 25/6/03 at 06:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by zetec
By the time you have cut instrument holes warning lights and steering stalks there aint much left.
This is true. We'll be trying MDF so as to compare it with the ally version if only to use the MDF as a template for an ally version.
Thanks all for your suggestions.
Andy
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suparuss
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| posted on 22/7/03 at 04:31 PM |
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since mdf has no grain, it isnt as rigid as ply, but personally id go with the ally with rolled bottom for extra rigidity. also, if you dont like the
dust, mdf has also been connected to cancer, as well as the other obvious bad points of fine dust. that was one of the first things they told us at
joinery college. if youre using wood tho id go with marine ply (grade a or b is usually about 1ply per mm of thickness so is quite rigid). if its too
flexible to use without a brace anyway, why not use 6mm ply with bracing behind? i would stick about a 25mm piece of timber to the back right on the
bottom edge so as to get a better radius than the 6mm ply will allow. but again, id go with the ally
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 22/7/03 at 07:54 PM |
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A chippy friend of mine suggested facia board, it is plastic, obviously waterproof, easily worked and light - I am still waiting for him to get me a
bit to try
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andyd
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| posted on 22/7/03 at 08:15 PM |
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I've now decided on a sandwich ally construction. Basically the "front" panel will sit over the scuttle face edge and extend down
to the tranny tunnel. This will have an edge put on it (not decided what yet) and then covered in thin foam and black vinyl. Red piping will then
run round the top edge where it butts to the scuttle. It will be fixed with 6mm countersunk bolts. Then to give it strength, another internal ally
piece will be sandwiched behind the scuttle but not extending all the way down to the tunnel. This panel will have a rolled bottom to give it
it's lateral rigidity and this rolled edge will then be used to "hook" a third piece which will do two things. First cover up all
the under scuttle gubbins and second give the whole thing even more inflexibility.
All in all it'll prolly weigh more than the mdf but hey ho!
Andy
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Chris Leonard
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| posted on 24/7/03 at 11:30 AM |
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I'm just making mine using a bit of plastic facia board - the stuff that goes on the soffets of a house. Its quite light, rigid, easy to cut and
has a 2 inch lip on one edge. I intend to glue a bit of half round something (maybe wood mayble pipe lagging) and cover with vynal to get the SVA
radius
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rojabuck
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| posted on 24/7/03 at 12:29 PM |
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carbon fiber
carbon fiber? fluke motorsport do one and i think (may be wrong) that gaz does them too..
regards
roja
www.ignitedminds.net - build diary
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