02GF74
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| posted on 6/6/07 at 08:52 AM |
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blinkin' flippin' eejut.
As part of my quest to gain more leg room beneath my steering wheel I have moved the pedals further away.
brake pedal by shortening the push rod; will need to length the stop swtich plunger!
accelerator by moving the ferrule to lengthen the cable; will need to adjust the end stops so pretty easy.
Now what freakin' blinking flippin' eejut fitted t he clutch cable to my car????
It is 4 sped Ford box and there is a nylon top hat shapped guide into whihc the threaded part of the clutch cable should go. I don't know how
he managed it but somehoe the cable end was not fitted into the guide and the lock/adjusting nuts done up agaisnt it so basically no vcable
adjustment.
After thnking about it, I reasoned I could get the cltuch pedal further away by making the inner cable lonner. To do this I had to release the cable
from the pedal and remove it from the operating arm/
Remiving the nylon guid and measuing the threaded end showed that the two should fit but didn't - a quick session with a 10 mm dril and a round
file ensure it did. Fitted it all back in and threaded part goes in like it should - I am guessing the bore of the guide was manked up by increect
fitting.
So sorted - all pedals have been moved back by about 70 mm and by rasigin the steering colum by approx 8-10 mm should mean I should be able to steer
round conrers.
But 2 questions.
1. where can I buy a clutch pedal spring? (will Ford still sell them for mk2 escort) Or what can I use instead?
2. Becuase of large plates  I need to make the pedals a bit narrower so thnking of remving the pedal rubbers and bolting on some squres bits of
steel - is it necessary to have non-sticky surface or will bare metal be ok? I think people have used wet'n'dry or even roofing flet for
this. Is there an issue with MOT that the pedals need to be of a minimum size and spacing?
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iank
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| posted on 6/6/07 at 09:08 AM |
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2. Brake pedal needs to be non-slip.
Skateboard tape seems to work well.
Clutch I'm not sure, can't find an SVA requirement for non-slip, but most people do as you can break the gearbox if your foot slips off
mid change.
Accelerator can be left plain (as it was on the mini).
Can't see any requirements for size/spacing of pedals in the SVA manual, but don't have time to check closely right now.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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02GF74
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| posted on 6/6/07 at 09:11 AM |
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don't need sva. I had bare metal pedasl on seires land rover, usaully they have clip on rubber pads, and never had any problem with MOT;
probably one of those murky areas....
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worX
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| posted on 6/6/07 at 09:14 AM |
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1. I have a selection of springs that I "acquired" whilst trying to find the best one for my accellerator cable return at the carbs! Let
me know what sort - shape/size/strength you will need as I may have one or two that fit the bill!
2. I have normal wet/dry on my brake and clutch pedals - you need it for SVA (but you're already SVA'd aren't you?) on all three
pedals, but I took it off the Accel pedal as soon as poss!
cheers,
Steve
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
But 2 questions.
1. where can I buy a clutch pedal spring? (will Ford still sell them for mk2 escort) Or what can I use instead?
2. Becuase of large plates I need to make the pedals a bit narrower so thnking of remving the pedal rubbers and bolting on some squres bits of
steel - is it necessary to have non-sticky surface or will bare metal be ok? I think people have used wet'n'dry or even roofing flet for
this. Is there an issue with MOT that the pedals need to be of a minimum size and spacing?
edited to add - you can just shorten (make narrow) your pedals by grinding them smaller and sticking the wet and dry on them then!
[Edited on 6/6/07 by worX]
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iank
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| posted on 6/6/07 at 09:26 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
don't need sva. I had bare metal pedasl on seires land rover, usaully they have clip on rubber pads, and never had any problem with MOT;
probably one of those murky areas....
I know you don't need SVA, but it's usually a reasonable indication of MOT requirements.
If you had no problems with the landy you'll probably get away with it, though I'm sure I once got an advisory on a mini for a worn pedal
rubber.
Probably worth putting non-slip cover on the brake anyway - just for peace of mind.
p.s. bet you never buy a part built car again 
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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02GF74
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| posted on 6/6/07 at 09:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by iank
p.s. bet you never buy a part built car again
I'd say the opposite. It is a cheap way to get on the kit car ladder and having been through the process of SVA, I now know what to look out
for so the next one, should it ever happen, will not require so much work to get right.
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iank
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| posted on 6/6/07 at 10:56 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
quote:
Originally posted by iank
p.s. bet you never buy a part built car again
I'd say the opposite. It is a cheap way to get on the kit car ladder and having been through the process of SVA, I now know what to look out
for so the next one, should it ever happen, will not require so much work to get right.
Seems like every problem you've had has been down to the original builder(s). But I'd agree you'd be well placed to pick a less
problematic one if you do it again.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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