RickRick
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| posted on 11/9/12 at 02:53 PM |
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Caterham style upper rad vent
Anyone made a vent for rad air from the top of the nose on a vortx? pics? or any other radiator duct ideas on the mnr
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daniel mason
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| posted on 11/9/12 at 04:12 PM |
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i had a nose vent on my mnr. but was more to get air in than out. pics in my blog
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ffrgtm
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 08:36 AM |
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I am currently redoing the entire nosecone to vent the rad upwards. The ducting was a nightmare until I decided to switch to a "lost foam"
type design. I'm not quite finished... having those dampers in the way is a bit of a complication. I recommend using Dacron to take care of the
majority of the ducting.. it's saved me a ton of time.
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RickRick
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 11:13 AM |
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what is dacron?
where's the pics?
I've got as far as making a rough template from card at the moment, it's sort of v shaped between the radiator and the top cross bars,
then leans back further to go to the back of the nose cone. however, it also takes up the space i used to have my rad fans mounted in, so i need to
figure out how to get round that, been busy making an electric handbrake, for security, and in prep for bike disks and calipers on the back
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loggyboy
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 11:18 AM |
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I seem to recal ducting being discussed here, but not sure if its the same as the caterham vent you mention...
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/4/viewthread.php?tid=165858
Mistral Motorsport
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RickRick
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| posted on 18/9/12 at 11:28 AM |
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that's the chap, just a bit more tricky on a mnr with the inboard suspension
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ElmrPhD
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| posted on 14/10/12 at 11:11 AM |
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Indeed, trickier with inboard suspension.
Still, let us know of any developments for a bonnet vent with a VortX - I'll do anything for a little downforce at the track...
By any miracle, is there any "graphic"/image data for the aerodynamics of our cars? It would be great to know where the natural high and
low pressure areas are for intake and (radiator) exhaust, respectively.
Perhaps an intake hood-scoop (sorry, that's american for bonnet intake...thingy) would produce its own low pressure zone behind it for radiator
exhaust. Now, wouldn't THAT be cool (pun intended...).
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RK
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| posted on 14/10/12 at 03:11 PM |
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I have a CSR style hole in my nosecone, but I've had to cover it up because of the butchering necessary to fit the nose over my intercooler
piping. I'll definitely post pics once I'm done.
The hole is handy for reaching things too, as well as letting air in/out.
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fostrike
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| posted on 16/10/12 at 03:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RickRick
that's the chap, just a bit more tricky on a mnr with the inboard suspension
On the Caterham CSR with inboard push-rod they manage to fit the nose cone vent!
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RickRick
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| posted on 26/12/12 at 03:09 PM |
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does this look like a suitable size hole for a rad vent (quick photoshop job
100mm deep, and most of the flat portion of the nose wide btw
 
[Edited on 26/12/12 by RickRick]
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RickRick
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| posted on 3/1/13 at 03:44 PM |
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progress pics added
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RickRick
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| posted on 7/10/13 at 12:24 PM |
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Bit late i know but...
I'ev had this setup done (ish) now all summer, and it's been great, cools quickly in traffic when the fans come on, and stays around 90
when driving, also keeps the under bonnet temp down a lot. i did think i'd be having to make the hole i'd cut bigger (that's why
i've not put mesh in yet) but it's ok. just need to add a bit of mesh and a small lip at the front to make a low pressure area to help
the hot air out.
 
Description
 
2
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johnny chimpo
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| posted on 7/10/13 at 12:51 PM |
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Hi RickRick, looks really good, do you have any other pictures of the rad ducting that you have done? This is one of the jobs on my to do list, but I
havent managed to get round to doing it yet.... another winter task!
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loggyboy
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| posted on 7/10/13 at 01:02 PM |
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Is that a large plate a few inches behind the radiator 'ducting' up to the vent?
[Edited on 7-10-13 by loggyboy]
Mistral Motorsport
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RickRick
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| posted on 7/10/13 at 02:05 PM |
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Yer it's carbon fiber layed onto cardboard because of the shape it's curved front to back but then it's sort of leant back above the
shockers so it almost meets the edges of the rad lower down then meets up with the return on the molding for the nose cone makes it a bit of a fiddle
to get the nose on and off. i've not ducted from the nose to the rad, it's vaguely closed off by carefull cutting of the nose when i
first built it
 
1
 
4
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loggyboy
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| posted on 7/10/13 at 02:25 PM |
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Not convinced its any better than leaving it open to be honest.
Air comes through a 300x400 nose through a rad with a free air area of about 50% of the nose, then is expected to turn through near 90degrees to go
through a vent which must have a free air area of about 20% of the radiator, and thats before its meshed. I would open up some holes in that CF
backing to let some air escape in other directions.
All you have there is a giant air dam.
Mistral Motorsport
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RickRick
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| posted on 7/10/13 at 02:33 PM |
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I know what your saying, it would be great if there was more space behind the rad to let the air come out at a more gentle angle, i did look at
trying to do the duct behind the shocks, but then would they like being blasted by hot air, and it got too close to the engine.
It's certainly no worse than standard for water cooling, and helps keep engine bay temps down about 20c and i guess whatever air is going
through the rad is coming out the top of the car, rather than going out the bottom, so less lift at the front.
like i say i was expecting to need to open up the hole in the top more than i've done but it seems ok, and adding a lip at the front will help
too
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ElmrPhD
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| posted on 7/10/13 at 03:33 PM |
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Thanks for the R&D dude!
Please don't patent it before I've copied it!
Steve, in the NLs
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johnny chimpo
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| posted on 7/10/13 at 06:38 PM |
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Rickrick what did you use to cut the hole out?
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RickRick
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| posted on 8/10/13 at 06:01 AM |
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i made a cardboard template for the hole, lined the edge up with the edge of the nose to make sure it was straight across the nose, then used a
3" cut off grinder for the straight parts, and to rough out the round portions, then finished with a large
dia sanding drum in a drill
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bi22le
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| posted on 8/10/13 at 07:58 AM |
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I was also looking into this and considered all mentioned. inboard shocks are a pig. I was considering making the rear duct go between the shocks but
stay open so air can get through where the shocks are. imagine making the perfect rear duck without the shocks and then cutting out the bare minimum
to refit the shocks.
The other thing I was considering was to duct through large ducking to the side pod exits.
[Edited on 8/10/13 by bi22le]
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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loggyboy
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| posted on 8/10/13 at 08:38 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
I was also looking into this and considered all mentioned. inboard shocks are a pig. I was considering making the rear duct go between the shocks but
stay open so air can get through where the shocks are. imagine making the perfect rear duck without the shocks and then cutting out the bare minimum
to refit the shocks.
The other thing I was considering was to duct through large ducking to the side pod exits.
Quack?!
I was having a similar thought for ducting out the sides and also adding a heat shield to split the air flow, and have a cold feed to the inlet,
whilst ducting the warm air through the engine bay and allow it to exit out some side vents and naturally under the open underside of the engine bay.
The pic below shows the yellow heat shield outline that would draw some air over the radiator and direct to the airfilters, and then add a louvered
side bonnet vent to create a flow route.
 
Striker Airflow
Im not too concerned by having 'warm' shocks, I know the temps that come out of the back of a fan when a car is stopped feels quite warm,
but when the cars moving at speed I have a feeling the temperature coming out the rad shouldnt be too high, as the air wont have time to collect as
much heat as it does when its pushed through at slower 'fan' speeds.
Mistral Motorsport
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Chrisjohns
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| posted on 8/10/13 at 10:07 AM |
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Vents
Because of the latent heat from the Chevy I needed to allow heat out at rest.
In the bonnet I've got louvres that I sourced from a chandlery. This has mitigated the fuel vapourisation I was getting in really heavy traffic
!
I've also let in two vents above and behind the fans to dissipate the rising heat. BMW Radiator grills (kidney shaped) from a 3 series are very
easy to source and then dremel out the recess.
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johnny chimpo
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 08:42 AM |
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This is what the ducting looks like from a caterham csr with inboard suspension.....
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loggyboy
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| posted on 9/10/13 at 10:07 AM |
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Suprisingly restrictive looking!
Mistral Motorsport
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