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Author: Subject: Leather tunnel top?
Tricky Dave

posted on 23/2/06 at 12:50 PM Reply With Quote
Leather tunnel top?

Hi

I'm getting towards the end of an engine swap job, and I'm going to need to recover the tunnel top.

I would like to do it in black leather - plenty going cheap on ebay - but have no idea how easy it is to work with. Has anyone used leather for this sort of stuff? Any tips?

Is plywood the base of choice? (Isn't it heavy!?) radius the corners, staple the leather on the other side? Or contact adhesive all over?! Is there any particular sort of leather I should be looking for (ostrich skin aside) and in what thickness?


Cheers

Dave

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Hammerhead

posted on 23/2/06 at 12:59 PM Reply With Quote
Hi, Leather of around 1.2mm thick will be ok. There are several types/qualities of leather. Semi corrected grain is leather that is skimmed and a plastic coating is applied then stamped with a leather grain. This is probably the best for you.

If you dont want any padding under the leather, I would recommend heavy duty spray adhesive, which is a contact adhesive. This will work if you go for a 1/4" foam also.

You could upholster/glue this onto plastic or aluminium. Or you could staple to mdf. Or you could make a grp curved moulding.

I work in the furniture industry so if you need to know anything let me know.

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RazMan

posted on 23/2/06 at 01:10 PM Reply With Quote
I will be tackling this job in the near future so I thought I would stick my oar in

If a second skin is made from alloy/plastic/mdf as Hammerhead suggests, and trimmed with the material of choice, what is the best method of securing the skin to the alloy tunnel? What about press studs or turn buckles - or Velcro tape?





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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Tricky Dave

posted on 23/2/06 at 01:14 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks.

The leather you mention sounds practical but not especially nice! What is the finish like? Would I notice that it is plastic coated?

To sew leather on a machine, do I need a special machine or just special needles / thread? thinking about attaching tunnel sides to panels using sewn on velcro to attach to velcro riveted to panels. Trying to encourage it to come apart at the velcro instead of the adhesive for a change

Dave

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Hammerhead

posted on 23/2/06 at 07:46 PM Reply With Quote
semi corrected leather is very nice, most sofas are made with it because its durable and is a great product. If I were you i'd make the backing mdf (or ally etc) in three pieces covered in leather so the leather bend round the tunnel. Then use those black plastic christmas tree fixings from halford to secure it to the rails, you will have to drill the rails of course.
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ceebmoj

posted on 23/2/06 at 08:52 PM Reply With Quote
hi,

does any one know a good sources of alacanta and leather at a resnoble price?


Blake

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RazMan

posted on 23/2/06 at 10:37 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Hammerhead
Then use those black plastic christmas tree fixings from halford to secure it to the rails, you will have to drill the rails of course.


Not sure what you mean there Hammerhead - are you talking about the trim buttons normally used for door cards etc?

ceebmoj - Woolies do a range, also Martrim





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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zetec

posted on 24/2/06 at 02:12 AM Reply With Quote
Few pics in my archive of tunnel top done in leather...I used MDF for the top, so much cut out for gearlever and hadbrake weight is not an issue. Use spray adhesive as less likely to get in a mess. Larger flat panels done in ali or light ply. Use thin padding first just to soften the edges and give it feel..
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Hammerhead

posted on 24/2/06 at 08:23 AM Reply With Quote
Yes RazMan, the trim buttons are great for hiding the fixings of various panels.

I will post pics of alcantara on my photo area.

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