The Baron
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posted on 2/6/06 at 06:35 PM |
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Basic Spec's for a Dash........
I have just finished my second dash, and it still looks crap!
I've tried to make it padded etc, but it just looks shit..............
So here goes with number 3......
Am I correct in thinking that the only rule(s) for a dash are no sharp edges (below 2mm) and the bottom edge must be radius'ed to 19mm?
As time is marching on and I could come back to it, I am planning on using a 19mm thick piece of MDF. Putting a full radius on the bottom with a
router, sticky back vinyl, hole for clocks and switches, job done.
It sounds back to basics, but would it get through a SVA in principle.
Cheers in advance,
The Baron
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rusty nuts
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posted on 2/6/06 at 06:53 PM |
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Thats how mine was done although I used some stuff to waterproof the MDF. Can't remember what it was .
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chrsgrain
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posted on 2/6/06 at 07:19 PM |
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Standard PVA (watered down if you want to save a few pennies) will waterproof MDF fine...
Chris
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PaulBuz
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posted on 4/6/06 at 11:32 AM |
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Dash
I know what you mean about the padded dash. IMHO it is very hard to make a padded dash that does not look 'homemade'.
Weve all seen the ones at the shows that have BIG wrinkles in then that ruin the effect.
The hardest problem I had was around the rims of the gauges, it was virtually impossible to get it looking half decent.
In the end I went for the no padding approach, with a bit of router work to round off the edges/make insets.
I should just say ,it possible to make a VERY good padded dash as several people on this site have shown!
[Edited on 4/6/06 by PaulBuz]
![](/galpreviews/a384154-ebay stuff 204.jpg) ![Rescued attachment ebay stuff 204.jpg](/gallery/a384154-ebay stuff 204.jpg) Rescued attachment ebay stuff 204.jpg
ATB
Paul
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907
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posted on 4/6/06 at 02:01 PM |
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Smart !
Paul G
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bracey
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posted on 10/6/06 at 10:45 PM |
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nice dash, may i ask where you got your dial from
cheers
richard
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PaulBuz
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posted on 11/6/06 at 08:18 AM |
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Thanks
The gauges are smiths telemetrix range.
ATB
Paul
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