Alfa145
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| posted on 6/2/07 at 07:18 PM |
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Alloy floor panels
Looking to replace all my horrific interior chequer plate panels with plain alloy panels but not sure what grade I should be asking for, which is
strongest, easiest to keep clean and shiney, easy to bend etc...
And if anyone knows of a local quality supplier near me could they let me know please.
Cheers
Rob
[Edited on 6/2/07 by Alfa145]
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 6/2/07 at 07:28 PM |
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Hi Rob
In my opinion, there are two grades of aluminium you can consider for panelling. NS4 is an alloy that is tough and quite springy. This is ideal for
structural areas such as floor and transmision tunnel sides etc where no bending is needed. For forming, pure aluminium grade 1050A is what I use.
This can be annealed and is very malleable. Both grades are easily polished. this is just my opinion but for a definitive answer perhaps Trev D might
help.
kind regards
John
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Alfa145
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| posted on 6/2/07 at 09:51 PM |
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Cheers John,
Not looking for any fancy curves and bends just normal straight bends to cover the trans tunnel and floor and maybe do the side panels too. So would
you recommend the 1050A for that or would I be looking for the NS4 grade?
Would annealing be the best method to do these straight bends of just brut force and a straight edge? (Not worked with alloy sheeting before)
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 7/2/07 at 09:16 AM |
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NS4 will bend very well if you have a folder but for hand forming, you might be better off using 18 or even 20 gauge 1050A. When dressing over tube,
round or square, try to clamp the aluminium with plywood as close to where the bend is going to be made as possible. Dress it round using a wooden
slapper of dolly and use lots of light sliding blows rather than a few direct heavy ones.
I used countersunk aluminium rivets which, being flush allowed me to fold the tunnel cover over. I'll try to attach a picture, always worth 1000
words!
U2U me if I can help.
Best wishes
John.jpg)
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iank
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| posted on 7/2/07 at 09:49 AM |
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Just so you don't hopelessly confuse your supplier by mixing grade code standards 
NS4 is called 5251 in new money
1050A is called S1B in old money
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 7/2/07 at 10:18 AM |
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Just to amplify my previous reply, structural panelling such as the floor should in my opinion be NS4 and no less than 18 gauge. Normally this is not
folded or dressed around the tubing. For body panelling, sides and back etc 1050A would be ideal.
John
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Alfa145
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| posted on 7/2/07 at 11:07 AM |
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Cheers for the replies.
What is the "wooden slapper of dolly" that you refer to?
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 7/2/07 at 12:34 PM |
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A dolly can be a piece of hardwood with its end shaped to suit the job. I have made a number having chisel ends, curved both convex and concave and so
on. They prevent damage being done to the panel when being formed.
A slapper or flipper is shown in the attached picture. All these are homemade to suit the job.
alb
John (Small).jpg)
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Alfa145
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| posted on 7/2/07 at 03:11 PM |
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Cheers John,
So what sort of dolly did you use to make the straight 90degree fold for your trans tunnel top piece to get such a crisp bend? Would you warm the
alloy first before bending it?
(Sorry for all the questions, just completly new to metal working)
Cheers
Rob
[Edited on 7/2/07 by Alfa145]
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 7/2/07 at 04:56 PM |
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Hi Rob, no need to apolize, it's a subject I'm really interested in and I'm very pleased to pass on what I can. Do not be afraid to
ask.
In fact, my transmission cover is 18 gauge NS4 and I bent it in my folder and believe me, it struggled. You should be able to easily fold 18 gauge
1050A. Suggest the following; Mark with pencil, do not on any account scribe lines, where you want the bend to be. Lay it on a flat surface that has a
sharp edge. with the bend line 1mm in front of sharp edge. Lay a piece of wood on top with its edge just behind the fold line. Clamp with as many G
clamps as you have. It must not move and it must be clamped along its length. Gently tap down the edge using a wooden dolly. This can be even softwood
say batten material 2 x 1 inch. The important thing is gently and a bit at a time working along the length making sure it bends evenly. Remember light
blows and make several passes until it is at a right angle.
As an aside,once the fold has started and you have broken the line you can actually unclamp the sheet and continue knocking the flange over until it
is back on itself and then you have made a safe edge. I'll tell you Rob working with aluminium is fascinating and totally addictive. You can
move it like plasticene.
Best of luck and do keep in touch.
Best wishes
John
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Alfa145
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| posted on 7/2/07 at 05:43 PM |
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Cheers again John,
So there is no need to heat the alloy just do it cold?
Looks like I'll have to get my hands on some offcuts and have a play.
Ta
Rob
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 7/2/07 at 05:51 PM |
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You shouldn't need to heat it, it should bend quite easily.
As 907 said, the best advice Trev D gave him was don't be frightened by it, show it who's boss!
To practise on offcuts is a really good idea.
Best of luck
John
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