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Author: Subject: TESTICLES.....
AvonZX9R

posted on 27/3/11 at 07:51 PM Reply With Quote
How about a painted (bodywork orange) design on the tunnel. Nothing too fancy but something that looks planned and 'right'. I wouldnt use the 3M carbon vinyl because it wont match the tunnel weave and will look bad. I would go for something contrasting - hence the orange paint idea. Just my 2 penneth. Good luck with whatever you choose - and makes me want to go and double check my bike rack etc on the garage wall!!!!!
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Steve Hignett

posted on 27/3/11 at 08:04 PM Reply With Quote
U2U Kris...
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Krismc

posted on 28/3/11 at 06:35 PM Reply With Quote
REPLIED





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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blakep82

posted on 29/3/11 at 08:24 PM Reply With Quote
had a quick try of the laquer over resin on my CF dashboard


works alright i think





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Krismc

posted on 29/3/11 at 08:27 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
had a quick try of the laquer over resin on my CF dashboard


works alright i think


Tell me more?





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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blakep82

posted on 29/3/11 at 08:32 PM Reply With Quote
i'd mentioned it on the first page

the laquer is pretty messed up on the dash board, all scratched so you can't really see the carbon through it. i'd seen one of carbon mods videos, where they are covering a plastic mirror in carbon, sticking it down with resin, but then spraying clear laquer over the top instead of resin.

soooo, on my dash, nothing to lose, gave it a shot today. if you can sand out most of the scratching with wet and dry paper (won't help with the hole sadly) and get it smooth, but not very see through, spray a few coats of laquer (the one i tried with today was just a halfords one) it should polish up alright, and at least help with some of the scratching

[Edited on 29/3/11 by blakep82]





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Mr Whippy

posted on 29/3/11 at 08:33 PM Reply With Quote
clear nail varnish. I use it on my model planes, great stuff soakes in and can be polished





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Krismc

posted on 29/3/11 at 08:40 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
i'd mentioned it on the first page

the laquer is pretty messed up on the dash board, all scratched so you can't really see the carbon through it. i'd seen one of carbon mods videos, where they are covering a plastic mirror in carbon, sticking it down with resin, but then spraying clear laquer over the top instead of resin.

soooo, on my dash, nothing to lose, gave it a shot today. if you can sand out most of the scratching with wet and dry paper (won't help with the hole sadly) and get it smooth, but not very see through, spray a few coats of laquer (the one i tried with today was just a halfords one) it should polish up alright, and at least help with some of the scratching

[Edited on 29/3/11 by blakep82]


I shall try this and the nail varnish and do a write up, its C$$ked up already so cant make it worse





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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Krismc

posted on 29/3/11 at 08:46 PM Reply With Quote
what about adding extra resin??





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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blakep82

posted on 29/3/11 at 08:46 PM Reply With Quote
i guess you could do, but you'll end up with brush marks and stuff i guess. i'll see if i can find that video

here it is
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rTWaV1imzs

[Edited on 29/3/11 by blakep82]





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Benonymous

posted on 30/3/11 at 03:22 AM Reply With Quote
I've had some success with painting on resin. I use a slow curing hardener and then use a new (cheap) brush to put it on.

Slow hardener allows the resin to flow and flatten out on its own. Provided you can get the part into a position where the resin won't run off (might be difficult on that bit) it's probably worth a go. I have the advantage of the part being primarily flat ( a table top ) but it might be OK on a curved part.

The only downside is that it will need a fair bit of work to get it looking like a carbon part should. Also, watch out for air bubbles. If you have any you can pop them with a bit of heat from a heat gun. Be judicious with the heat.

I do think the clear nail polish idea would probably work out well too. You might have to do a couple of layers so take it easy.

Good luck!

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mangogrooveworkshop

posted on 30/3/11 at 05:38 AM Reply With Quote
Im going to sound a little harsh here.
But here goes ..... dont be a polisher......stick a sticker over it and go out and drive it instead.

After a while shiney parts like this get scuffs and stuff.
I see a lot of sevens that never get used and its a shame ...five years to build and you are worrying about that...wait till you get the little stones showering you....... on volkers caterham his sticky tyres used to put rooster tails out the front and back and they used to scratch the carbon in the front mudguards.....

Its a car just drive it






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Krismc

posted on 30/3/11 at 07:18 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mangogrooveworkshop
Im going to sound a little harsh here.
But here goes ..... dont be a polisher......stick a sticker over it and go out and drive it instead.

After a while shiney parts like this get scuffs and stuff.
I see a lot of sevens that never get used and its a shame ...five years to build and you are worrying about that...wait till you get the little stones showering you....... on volkers caterham his sticky tyres used to put rooster tails out the front and back and they used to scratch the carbon in the front mudguards.....

Its a car just drive it


I totally agree,

Im not too bothered about it but if i have spare time and a rainy day its getting attention before it cracks further, plus you rest on it when getting in car carbon cuts it, and it only took 8months building just 4 years at garages and vosa for engine.





Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.

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