bigpig
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| posted on 24/1/09 at 10:16 PM |
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Bit of a seat belt mount disaster
After deciding to replace the Securon provided bolts with proper graded bolts, I found out why they were not graded.
Three came out fine, but the third one sheared its head off instead of comming out (I used thread lock, but it shouldn't have been that much of
a problem).
After many hours of drilling, failed attempts at stud extractor (thankfully I didn't push it enough to break the extractor), I've managed
to get to the state of a hole being there again.
I could drill it out to 10mm and tap it, but I'm not really going to be happy with the strength of the tube after that.
Given that its an MK Indy chassis with welded in roll bar, I'm now at the situtation of what the heck to do to get back to a working seat belt
mount. Unfortunatly I'm useless at welding so I guess I'm going to have to pay a local mobile welder an arm and a leg to come out and sort
the mount.
Due to the angle being akward, all I can think of is to angle grind off the old threaded tube and put a new one in?
The other question is spacers. At the moment I would prefer to thread the harness through the seat belt holes (of course I could go round them), but
I've got some 45mm stanless spacers. Would those be suitable for SVA (I think the kit car is born program used something like that IIRC) so do
they have to be welded to the threaded tube? As mentioned I could always say sod it and not use the seat holes.
Any suggestions, before I decide that its finally time to give up on the whole project?
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BenB
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| posted on 24/1/09 at 11:02 PM |
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I used some spacers (quite tall ones too- about 80mm) which weren't welded onto the threaded tube, just clamped in place by the harness bolt
(with the top-hat swivel device to allow harness movement). Passed SVA without a raised eyebrow.... I just used plain vanilla B+Q steel tube 
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 12:01 AM |
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What is your location ?
Its very possible that you have a local builder near to you that can weld up some bits for you.
If we gave up everytime a bolt breaks we would get nowt done
[Edited on 25-1-09 by mangogrooveworkshop]
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nitram38
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 05:12 AM |
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A bit of advice about getting bolts/broken studs out: NEVER use screw in stud extractors!
They always break and then you are in the poo!
I have removed studs/bolts etc by welding a blob on top of the stud/bolt and then weld a rod/piece of steel to the blob at about 45 degrees. The
extra leverage and the heat normally shifts it even in aluminum blocks.
If you break a stud extractor, then spark errosion is the only way to remove it.
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t.j.
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 07:11 AM |
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No pictures?
just simple thinking:
Can you put a long bolt in there and just put a nut on the otherside?
Please feel free to correct my bad English, i'm still learning. Your Dutch is awfull! :-)
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BenB
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 09:21 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
A bit of advice about getting bolts/broken studs out: NEVER use screw in stud extractors!
They always break and then you are in the poo!
I have removed studs/bolts etc by welding a blob on top of the stud/bolt and then weld a rod/piece of steel to the blob at about 45 degrees. The
extra leverage and the heat normally shifts it even in aluminum blocks.
If you break a stud extractor, then spark errosion is the only way to remove it.
Not always entirely true re stud extractors. The one I bought were that rubbish they were actually made from quite soft metal and drilled out very
nicely without damanging the thread 
But I agree, weld on a nut and bobs ya uncle....
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Danozeman
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 09:56 AM |
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Weld on nuts is the best way but iv got some snap on stud extractors with are a long bit you tap into a hole ud drilled and a nut slides down it an
undoes it. Very good and work well. Better than the screw in ones which i have aswell they just screw in and pull out or snap off.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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bigpig
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 10:17 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by t.j.
No pictures?
just simple thinking:
Can you put a long bolt in there and just put a nut on the otherside?
I was thinking to drilling out and putting a couple of nuts and a nylock behind that (I've got about 1" of excess thread going through the
mounts), but I think the SVA requires captive nuts rather than normal nuts.
If there is anyone here from Leicester who fancies earning a bit (or getting some donor parts is trade, I've probably got near a complete spare
donor set) then get in touch.
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Bigheppy
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 11:24 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bigpig
quote:
Originally posted by t.j.
No pictures?
just simple thinking:
Can you put a long bolt in there and just put a nut on the otherside?
I was thinking to drilling out and putting a couple of nuts and a nylock behind that (I've got about 1" of excess thread going through the
mounts), but I think the SVA requires captive nuts rather than normal nuts.
If there is anyone here from Leicester who fancies earning a bit (or getting some donor parts is trade, I've probably got near a complete spare
donor set) then get in touch.
You might get a reply if you put your location 
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bigpig
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| posted on 25/1/09 at 02:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Bigheppy
quote:
Originally posted by bigpig
quote:
Originally posted by t.j.
No pictures?
just simple thinking:
Can you put a long bolt in there and just put a nut on the otherside?
I was thinking to drilling out and putting a couple of nuts and a nylock behind that (I've got about 1" of excess thread going through the
mounts), but I think the SVA requires captive nuts rather than normal nuts.
If there is anyone here from Leicester who fancies earning a bit (or getting some donor parts is trade, I've probably got near a complete spare
donor set) then get in touch.
You might get a reply if you put your location
Wot you mean the Leicester bit above 
I must get round to putting it in my profile though too
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