caber
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| posted on 1/2/07 at 08:14 PM |
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Dash board and scuttle design
Folks
i am looking for some comments on my dashboard and scuttle. The leading edge of the scuttle is ally sheet formed over 25mm X 3mm steel bar giving a
diameter of about 5 mm for the edge. The dash itself is 1.2 ally sheet with a 180degree curve formed over a 38mm pipe. I don't want a padded dash
so will finish either in crinkle paint or with a sheet of vinyl used for the rest of the interior. I intend to mount the dials in the steering wheel
safe area and i think i only need a single switch for the rear fog light that again will be in the safe area. I am trying to get a Lotus 7 series 2
look for the car.
I am also using a Lotus Elan umbrella handle hand brake to the right of the column again in the safe area.
At the moment the dash is fixed with M6 button head allen screws though I may change these for countersunk allen screws in cups. I gather there have
been some SVA failures because of the sharp edge of the hex recess though with the dash mounted this far back i don't think a 100mm ball will
reach the screws.
Any comments gratefully received
Thanks
Caber
 
Rescued attachment Photo_012107_002.jpg
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mandbsheldon
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| posted on 1/2/07 at 08:21 PM |
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Very Very neat!!!!!
leigh
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ayoungman
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| posted on 1/2/07 at 08:32 PM |
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lovely job Sir ! 
"just like that !"
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ricklawn
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| posted on 1/2/07 at 08:59 PM |
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sorry i can't help with fastners. but i think it would be a shame to cover a fantastic looking dah with vinyl
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ecosse
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| posted on 1/2/07 at 09:18 PM |
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Nice 1 caber
Dont suppose you've got any pics of the framework for it?
I could be doing with some ideas for mine, it's the next job, and I'm struggling a bit with how to go about it 
Cheers
Alex
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caber
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| posted on 1/2/07 at 09:41 PM |
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I am afraid it doesn't look quite so good in the metal ! There are a few scuffs and scratches and one annoying slight ripple none of which show
in the photo. I will try and get rid of the scratches but ultimately may need to fill and paint it to get a perfect finish!
The big question is will it pass SVA? If not what should I do to it to get it to pass?
Alex the frame is a simple bent hoop of the 25 X 3 more or less to the book form but slightly higher at the dash end. At the bonnet end I formed a
hoop from 20 X 20 X 1 square box section and braced the two together with a single strip of the bar at the top and the book form of frame at the
bottom. The skin was formed around the dash bar with considerable beating with a large rubber mallet starting at the centre and working outwards in
two or three passes this allowed me to "tuck in" the corners without too many ripples. I then formed the flanges and rivitted them to the
side tubes then repeated the beating to the front edge to wrap the skin around the front tube after filling the dash end with sikaflex and putting
plenty on the front hoop to stick it all together. This does not provide a landing for the bonnet, the current plan is to form a hoop of 12mm X12mm X1
ally angle and rivet this to the front hoop with the infill panel on the inside of this to hide the inevitable cuts that will be required. This angle
will be fitted with either a foam strip or a proper bonnet seal whatever is necessary to get the bonnet to sit
properly.
Caber
[Edited on 2/1/2007 by caber]
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ecosse
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| posted on 1/2/07 at 10:47 PM |
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Thanks for that I think I get the idea, although I've never tried to bend ally like that b4, first time for everything I spose! 
Cheers
Alex
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rebelrider
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| posted on 1/2/07 at 10:50 PM |
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good job looks great
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caber
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| posted on 1/2/07 at 11:03 PM |
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Alex, Neither had I!
caber
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02GF74
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| posted on 2/2/07 at 07:41 AM |
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good effort!!
the bottom edge I take it was bent over the 38 mm tube?
bolt heads - without checking, I don't think they stick out too far; what otheres had done is to fill in the heads with silicone stuff or even
car bidy filler - you can always dig it out of the head should you need to remove the dash.
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ecosse
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| posted on 2/2/07 at 10:03 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by caber
Alex, Neither had I!
caber
LOL..
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