Pdlewis
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 08:36 PM |
|
|
Pinto Head Gasket
Hello,
Think my head gasket has popped simple question. Ive not really done much engine work before so not overley confident about what im doing should i
attemp replacing it myself? if so how long should it take me? (as ive just taxed and insured it!)
Cheers
Paul
|
|
|
flak monkey
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 08:41 PM |
|
|
Its a simple job. You will need a new gasket and new bolts. And maybe a new rocker cover gasket.
Remove the cambelt, preferably lining up the timing marks before you do!
Make sure you undo the bolts in the right order (you will need a torx bit and a 0.5" drive breaker bar to get them undone).
Tap the head with a soft mallet to loosen it up.
Lift it off and clean off the old gasket throughly
Place the new gasket on the block, make sure its the right way up.
Gently lower the head down. And smear a drop or 2 of oil under the heads of the new bolts.
Torque them up in the correct order and to the specified settings in the haynes book.
Set the timing back up and run the engine for 15mins.
Take the rocker cover back off and tighten the head bolts (in the right order) another 90 deg.
Job done.
Tools wise you will need the right torx bit (cant remember which size now), a good torque wrench, a mallet, a long breaker bar and a socket set.
David
PS if you have the haynes book then its described in more detail in there. You will need it for the torques and tightening sequences. It also tells
you how to sort the cambelt out. If you are running a std cam its easy.
[Edited on 24/5/07 by flak monkey]
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
|
|
Pdlewis
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 08:44 PM |
|
|
You make it sound so simple
|
|
David Jenkins
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 08:44 PM |
|
|
Not forgetting to drain the coolant before you start, and replace it afterwards before starting the engine!
|
|
flak monkey
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 08:45 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by David Jenkins
Not forgetting to drain the coolant before you start, and replace it afterwards before starting the engine!
Oops, forgot that bit. Well done
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
|
|
pajsh
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 08:49 PM |
|
|
Torx T55 for the head.
My Haynes says TS5 which caused much confusion in Halfrauds.
But then it doesn't take much to do that !
I used to be apathetic but now I just don't care.
|
|
DarrenW
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 08:50 PM |
|
|
Its a great job for some experience. You will struggle to find an easier engine to change head gasket on.
|
|
car builder
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 08:53 PM |
|
|
dont worry they are easy did mine in an evening, if you get stuck i can give you a hand.
James.
|
|
Pdlewis
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 09:00 PM |
|
|
Any recomendations on where/what to get? I have seen a couple on ebay (full top set) from gaskets for classics
Its for a 205 block with escort rally head
|
|
flak monkey
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 09:01 PM |
|
|
Gaskets for classics are as good as any. Had a full set from him, good quality stuff.
Dont forget the head bolts too
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
|
|
car builder
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 09:10 PM |
|
|
burton power
https://www.burtonpower.com/Default.aspx
|
|
DarrenW
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 09:17 PM |
|
|
G for C get my vote, fantastic service.
|
|
Mark Allanson
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 09:49 PM |
|
|
Just a little tip - get 2 of the old head bolts, cut the tops off and then cut a slot in the top for a screwdriver to turn (simple hacksaw cut). Put
these in opposite corners of the block and use them to hold the headgasket in place and more importantly as a guide as you lower the head. Makes a
tricky part of the job really easy.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
|
|
MkIndy7
|
posted on 24/5/07 at 10:02 PM |
|
|
Another vote for Gaskets for Classics!.
Just a word or warning on the Cylinder Head bolts.. When out of stock
Andrew Pages are not re-stocking them (they were about £16 for 10)
Also for anybody with a Halfords Trade card their Cam belts are Crazily cheep!
|
|
jollygreengiant
|
posted on 25/5/07 at 03:42 AM |
|
|
Another couple of things.
I've NEVER had to replace pinto head bolts.
ALWAYS change the oil and filter after you have done it but before you start the engine.
Oh, and before you put the rocker cover back on, try and get new oil into the engine with you new filter. Put a 17mm socket into a drill and with new
oil filter AND spray bar fitted, spin up the Auxilliary belt pulley (with distributor cap removed, ignition OFF and distributor un-plugged) just to
make sure that you have oil feed to the camshaft and a GOOD supply of oil to ALL the fingers.
otherwise the easyiest head job to do beside a kent engine.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
|
|
DRC INDY 7
|
posted on 25/5/07 at 06:15 AM |
|
|
Just a little note when useing torxs bolts there are a stetch bolt once they have been tightened you do not re-tighten them after 15 mins of running
The procedure you describe is for the older typt non stretch bolts
https://www.facebook.com/groups/462610273778799/
Puddle Dodgers Club
|
|
02GF74
|
posted on 25/5/07 at 07:18 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by flak monkey
Tap the head with a soft mallet to loosen it up.
Iti s easu peasy. To remov head, turn the engine over with plugs fitted - the compression will lift it enough for a mallet to finish off the job.
|
|
se7ensport
|
posted on 27/5/07 at 08:22 PM |
|
|
On the head gasket from get a Felpro Blue, burton sells them, they give you slightly higher compression (free extra power) + are tougher than a normal
gasket.
|
|
MikeRJ
|
posted on 27/5/07 at 09:17 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by jollygreengiant
Another couple of things.
I've NEVER had to replace pinto head bolts.
There are two types, the oldest type were reusable, the later type (torx head) where stretch bolts that are supposed to be renewed if the head is
removed.
|
|