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Author: Subject: rear hubs
scotlad
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Building: Built MK Indy Blade, RH 2b Zetec, rebuilding locos

posted on 30/9/03 at 07:55 PM Reply With Quote
rear hubs

i've just removed the lsd and drive shafts etc from the back of an xr 4x4 sierra to put in the indy that i'll be ordering shortly. will these drive shafts fit into the mk chassis ok? also what other bits of the back end do i need from this car? hubs?? i'll be getting a standard sierra as a donor to get all the other bits- ie propshaft, steering rack etc. alas still waiting on my garage getting finished- cant wait to get started!!!!!!
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suparuss

posted on 30/9/03 at 08:36 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by scotlad
alas still waiting on my garage getting finished- cant wait to get started!!!!!!


lucky you, im still waiting for the solicitor to do the conveyencing on the house im buying which has the garage im going to remove to be able to build a bigger one which ill build my car in, not an mk of any description tho, just thought id tell you how lucky you are!

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MK9R

posted on 1/10/03 at 07:24 AM Reply With Quote
Yes they will fit, grab the rear hubs, brake calipers and mounting brackets, makeure you order the correct rear uprights form MK i.e. disc ones?

[Edited on 1/10/03 by MK9R]

[Edited on 1/10/03 by MK9R]





Cheers Austen

RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk

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scotlad
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Location Edinburgh
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Building: Built MK Indy Blade, RH 2b Zetec, rebuilding locos

posted on 1/10/03 at 09:05 AM Reply With Quote
thanks russ- feeling better about my not-finished-garage now!

And cheers Austen- have put aside all the bits mentioned- just need to get rid of the rest now- cant wait to put it on the trailer on 2 front wheels only dragging its backside! just as well i have nice neighbours to help.....

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MK Goldrush

posted on 1/10/03 at 02:20 PM Reply With Quote
Scotlad, if the XR4x4 had ABS, you will need to remove the teeth on the hub using a lathe or grinder. Otherwise they will not fit MK rear hub carriers.






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ned

posted on 1/10/03 at 02:39 PM Reply With Quote
Sorry, just a quick question about removing those splines/teeth (I have an abs equiped sierra rear end too)

If you grind them off (ie angle grinder) will this be a good enough job? It won't unbalance the ford critical manufacturing tolerances will it?
And are they made of a machined casting or hardened metal, ie will a normal lathe cutting piece go through them or require something tricker?

sorry for the dippiness and hi-jack...

Ned.

[Edited on 1/10/03 by ned]





beware, I've got yellow skin

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Noodle

posted on 1/10/03 at 04:07 PM Reply With Quote
This may help, or not:

I bent the rear suspension on my Primera playing in the snow on a car park. With replacement parts unavailable, yes unavailable for a 1996 car I bought second hand parts. The donor vehicle's hub didn't have ABS and a Nissan replacement was £120, so we put my old one on a propane stove, heated it until jolly hot (that's a scientific term) and whacked it in a vice. Whaddya know? The ABS ring dropped off and before it cooled we dropped it over the non-ABS hub. Job's a good 'un.

The moral is, it might be worth having a closer look at the hub.

Cheers,

Neil.

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RichyMkIndy

posted on 1/10/03 at 05:57 PM Reply With Quote
make sure that MK dont give you upside down rear disk uprights ! i gave mine back to them at donnie, i expect it will be a few blue moons before i see a replacement.....................
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bob

posted on 1/10/03 at 06:43 PM Reply With Quote
NED

the little splines on the hub for ABS are very soft material ally like,i machined them down to the steel no problems.






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JoelP

posted on 1/10/03 at 07:23 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Noodle
I bent the rear suspension on my Primera playing in the snow on a car park....


i did exactly the same thing in nevember 01, and still havent got the car back from the garage.

soz for the hijack...!

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MK9R

posted on 1/10/03 at 08:18 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

make sure that MK dont give you upside down rear disk uprights ! i



We had exactly the same!! But rather than going all the way back up there we re-welded them





Cheers Austen

RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk

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ned

posted on 2/10/03 at 09:21 AM Reply With Quote
thanks bob,

see you sunday?

Ned.





beware, I've got yellow skin

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James

posted on 2/10/03 at 09:59 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bob
the little splines on the hub for ABS are very soft material ally like,i machined them down to the steel no problems.


The sensor uses a hall-probe (magnetic) effect doesn't it? How can they be ali?

On my hubs they're definately cast into the hub casing. Instead of grinding them off and worrying about balancing etc. you could use a decent half-round file and widen the upright a little as I've done.

HTH,

James

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bob

posted on 2/10/03 at 11:46 AM Reply With Quote
James

Well they were not steel thats for sure.

Anyhow i said "soft like ally"

See you sunday and no sugar in mine

[Edited on 2/10/03 by bob]






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RichyMkIndy

posted on 2/10/03 at 05:09 PM Reply With Quote
I used a round file and opened the upright up, took a while but works find now, i didnt want to upset the balance by grinding the driveshafts.
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siert

posted on 2/10/03 at 07:54 PM Reply With Quote
a customer of mine used his lathe to remove the metal off the drive shaft....he said it was high quality steel......(and that was a tech dept in a school)....anyway use a lathe to get the best result and not an angle grinder!!!
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RichyMkIndy

posted on 2/10/03 at 08:52 PM Reply With Quote
just use a half round file and a round file. bit of hard graft but it fits perfect after!
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MK Goldrush

posted on 6/10/03 at 07:48 PM Reply With Quote
Hubs Grinding/Turning

The ABS teeth are indeed heat shrunk on. They are manufactured from Carbon Steel, so quite easy to machine. When we referred to "grinding", it was meant as machine grinding to retain concentricity not Hand Grinding which would indeed make the whole thing eccentric (raving mad actually!) and produce nasty vibrations at speed!

We reduced the diameter to 79.5mm diameter to allow for the upright bore being slightly out-of-round.

Incedentally, it is wise heating up a heat treated critical part - you wouldn't want to anneal the whole component surely - making it so soft the component is useless!! Personally, I would advise against using this method...






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RichyMkIndy

posted on 8/10/03 at 12:13 AM Reply With Quote
i mean file off the rim on the inside of the hub not the ABS grooves
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ned

posted on 17/11/03 at 12:35 PM Reply With Quote
Just for info to anyone who's interested I've now had the teeth machined off my rear hubs:

Before:



After:







beware, I've got yellow skin

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greggors84

posted on 17/11/03 at 02:52 PM Reply With Quote
Looks good, nice and smooth. How much did it cost for them to be machined off, i was thinking about it, but i just filed the inside of the upright down.





Chris

The Magnificent 7!

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ned

posted on 17/11/03 at 03:38 PM Reply With Quote
A mate of my dads did it along with some suspension bits that needed modifying for £10. bargain.

Ned.





beware, I've got yellow skin

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bob

posted on 17/11/03 at 07:52 PM Reply With Quote
Retired engineer with lathe in his garage did mine,just got lucky i spose.






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scotlad
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Registered 30/9/03
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Building: Built MK Indy Blade, RH 2b Zetec, rebuilding locos

posted on 18/11/03 at 07:05 AM Reply With Quote
if you take them to MK with you when picking up kit, they'll machine 'em for you if you ask nicely!
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James

posted on 20/11/03 at 04:07 PM Reply With Quote
IS there any reason that MK don't just make the whole in the upright a little larger?
Would seem it'd save a load of hassle/expense!

James

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