David Jenkins
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 posted on 13/10/03 at 08:02 AM |
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Inside panels
This week's question is:-
How have people done their inside panels, and what material did you use? (this is the inside skin, not the transmission tunnel).
I don't know whether to take the skin full-length from bum to pedals or stop it under the scuttle.
As for material, I was thinking of using ali covered with something, but I know that some people have used plywood.
Helpful suggestions appreciated!
cheers,
David
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 13/10/03 at 08:29 AM |
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Seems that a fair few dont bother with anything, if you are in the 'light brigade' with a BEC or similar.
I will soon be at the panels stage.
I plan to use 3mm hardboard covered with a similarly thick sponge layer, with upholstery PVC sheet stuff streched over the lot.
I was hoping it could be held on with ind quality velcro, but I think that will space it off too far and not be up to the job. So it might have to be
those 'push in a hole' type plastic pegs ar per metro doors and the like. Self tappers and screw cups would work, but look a bit crap
IMO.
atb
Steve
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 13/10/03 at 10:38 AM |
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My only concern with hardboard is the way it falls apart when damp. I suppose you could use the green 'waterproof' hardboard, or give it
a good coat of paint/varnish, or something. Certainly cheaper than ali or marine ply.
I was thinking of not panelling, but I was concerned about the corners of the square chassis members when tested by Mr SVA.
DJ
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 13/10/03 at 10:54 AM |
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Jasper's car seems to be unpannelled - perhaps he can help?
atb
steve
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Peteff
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| posted on 13/10/03 at 11:20 AM |
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I don't think any of the edges of the tube are in an area where they are contactable so you don't have to cover them. Mine are all exposed
as are most I have seem. The tube corners are slightly radiused anyway and look even moreso with a good coat of paint.
yours, Pete
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Mark H
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| posted on 13/10/03 at 12:15 PM |
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Mine are unpannelled, looks more racy IMO.
Will stick carpet on at some point to make neater though.
[Edited on 13/10/03 by Mark H]
Mark Harrison and
Q986 KCP back from the dead...
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pbura
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| posted on 14/10/03 at 10:01 AM |
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I like the idea of hardboard for cost, insulation value, and resistance to dents. Paint/varnish was a good suggestion, David.
Speaking of interiors in general, 30-50 pounds of carpet, panels, and insulation seems like a worthwhile trade-off (to me) for some comfort. I am
thinking of using this type of insulation in the cockpit and under the bonnet:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10101&TID=100&TID=100&productId=394&catalogId=10101&
;langId=-1
Pete
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 14/10/03 at 12:57 PM |
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that seems like a good idea for a typical seven, syd
- but it wouldnt suite the old style appearanc eof my car.....I need somethign lower tech looking
As far as hardboard not liking moisture, many older roa cars (again metro as example) used hardboard - but with a sheet of polythene on the back with
tape.
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mlgates
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| posted on 14/10/03 at 02:18 PM |
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Fiberglass panels
Just returned from my local home improvment store. They sell fiberglass sheet (4ft. x 8ft) that could easily be cut for interior panels. It has a
pebble grain texture (in white). It is used in bathrooms and kitchens. Costs $28 (US).
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Simon
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| posted on 15/10/03 at 04:01 PM |
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David,
For SVA purposes, I've used leather look vinyl/foam covering (5mm) MDF (quite heavy).
All edges of MDF have been radiused. Intended to replace whole interior with ally, but...........
Syd,
Bloody good idea old boy!!
Why didn't I think of that.
ATB
Simon
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pbura
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| posted on 15/10/03 at 04:14 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mlgates
Just returned from my local home improvment store. They sell fiberglass sheet (4ft. x 8ft) that could easily be cut for interior panels. It has a
pebble grain texture (in white). It is used in bathrooms and kitchens. Costs $28 (US).
Will have to check this out. What is coming to mind is shower surround material, about 1mm thick, which might be a little bendy.
Thanks!
Pete
Pete
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 15/10/03 at 05:36 PM |
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you could also use 1mm or so thick abs plastic sheet as a backing - its lower SG than fibreglass and therefore lighter - but not as rigid!
Im staying with 3mm board methinks....
atb
steve
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chrisg
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| posted on 15/10/03 at 08:54 PM |
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The plastic tank Man does interior panels in textured black plastic to your pattern.
You can see how I did mine in marine ply and ali on the website.
Cheers
Chris
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
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philgregson
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| posted on 16/10/03 at 10:25 AM |
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As I am hoping to bond my ali panels to the outside - It looks neater and I hope it will make the chassis stiffer - I was toying with the idea of
bonding ali to the inside as well as it might make the chassis stiffer still and won't add a lot of weight. Then I thought I could fill the
interveaning void with foam - I don't know exactly why but it seems like a good thing to do.
Any thoughts or comments?
Phil.
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GO
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| posted on 16/10/03 at 11:50 AM |
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One thing I would be wary of with foam (assuming you get a fire retardent foam) is rust. Make sure you seal the whole thing properly so no water can
get in, if you don't and you get water in there the foam will stay damp longer than if there was no foam and will therefore promote rust.
Something I've learnt from Toyota...
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philgregson
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| posted on 16/10/03 at 12:31 PM |
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Why not mix up foam? That was plan I had so that the void was completely filled and the foam bonded to the metal surfaces. - bugger.
Phil
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