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Author: Subject: quicker steering
Martian

posted on 17/4/08 at 11:42 AM Reply With Quote
quicker steering

hi everybody, i am after quickening the steering on my locost and, being very tight, wants to do it cheap! someone has suggested drilling a new hole in the steering arm (sierra hubs). this will shorten the arm, i think it's strong enough. if the arm is shortened by, say, a third, will it reduce lock to lock by a third? or is this all a bad idea?
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Martian

posted on 17/4/08 at 12:11 PM Reply With Quote
same lock, less movement on steering wheel.....yes? main reason i've posted on here, i expect some one to shout ' bad idea', spend money on quick rack!! the idea seems o.k. but there might be something i'm missing!
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DarrenW

posted on 17/4/08 at 12:16 PM Reply With Quote
afaik the only way to quicken the steering is to change the gearing ratio between rack and pinion.






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blakep82

posted on 17/4/08 at 12:18 PM Reply With Quote
it won't alter the number of turn lock to lock on the wheel, but it will give more movement of the road wheels, so i guess it will speed the steering up a little bit (if it takes you 10 seconds to turn lock to lock and the road wheels to turn through 80deg for example, after a redrill the arms, you might get 90 degrees. so if you turn the steering wheel through the same 10 seconds, your wheels turn 90 degrees, then yes it'll be quicker.

but i'd go for a quick rack. they're only about £100 for a whole rack, or you can get the internals and do it yourself.





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02GF74

posted on 17/4/08 at 12:26 PM Reply With Quote
new hole in steering arm?

You really think that is safe?

By all means do it if you are willing to die or be severely injured for the sake of £ 70.

IMO you don't f**K around with brakes or steering.






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Howlor

posted on 17/4/08 at 12:27 PM Reply With Quote
I may be been a bit thick here but I think it will alter the number of turns lock to lock as the steering rack will have to move less for the wheel to reach full rotation about the ball joints.

Steve






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Mr Whippy

posted on 17/4/08 at 12:29 PM Reply With Quote
not too keen on that idea and are you sure you have enough metal where you want to drill. Mind though if you do move it that the rack will have to move also otherwise the steering will be wonky (to use the technical term)





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blakep82

posted on 17/4/08 at 12:30 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Howlor
I may be been a bit thick here but I think it will alter the number of turns lock to lock as the steering rack will have to move less for the wheel to reach full rotation about the ball joints.

Steve


but the full lock it limited by the ends of the rack itself. the ball joints would spin through 360 degrees (well, infinitely) if chassis and suspension wasn't in the way





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Howlor

posted on 17/4/08 at 12:37 PM Reply With Quote
I agree but the fact that the wheels are limited means that the number of turns lock to lock will reduce.

Steve






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blakep82

posted on 17/4/08 at 12:43 PM Reply With Quote
but the full steering lock isn't limited by the wheels hitting your wishbones/chassis (or at least it shouldn't be, otherwise thats an sva fail)
its limited by the rack





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MikeRJ

posted on 17/4/08 at 12:48 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Howlor
I agree but the fact that the wheels are limited means that the number of turns lock to lock will reduce.

Steve


This would only be the case if the wheels fouled on the bodywork before the rack reached it's limits. Ignoring this, shorter steering arms will speed up the steering, but the number of turns lock-lock will be the same, you just get more lock.

Note also that this is likely to have some impact on bump steer (may improve it or make it worse depending on geometry).

Martian, are the steering arms the same thickness along their entire length, or do they have extra metal around the hole for the TRE? How are you going to get the correct tapered hole for the TREs?

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Bluemoon

posted on 17/4/08 at 12:50 PM Reply With Quote
I would get a quick rack.. You could move the pivots if you limit the rack travel, but the following might be a problem:

1) Not enough strength in casting.
2) More strain on ball joints.
3) Steering Geometry altered.

Without knowing how 1 to 3 are effected by the mod I would agree with the probably better not do that camp..

Dan

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MustangSix

posted on 17/4/08 at 12:51 PM Reply With Quote
Not entirely sure what SVA looks for, but using the rack limit as a steering stop is a bad idea. There should be a mechanical stop on the spindle itself to limit its travel. Very common on most cars.






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Martian

posted on 17/4/08 at 01:15 PM Reply With Quote
thanks guys! there is enough metal on the arms, but obviously the holes would need drilling with a tapered drill (i wasn't going to do it myself) and it would need some sort of lock stop on the rack. after reading your views, i'll get a quick rack
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blakep82

posted on 17/4/08 at 01:16 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Martian
i'll get a quick rack


good choice





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MikeRJ

posted on 17/4/08 at 02:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MustangSix
Not entirely sure what SVA looks for, but using the rack limit as a steering stop is a bad idea. There should be a mechanical stop on the spindle itself to limit its travel. Very common on most cars.


On some cars perhaps, but I don't think I've ever had a car that didn't use the rack to limit steering lock. Why is it a bad idea?

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Mr Whippy

posted on 17/4/08 at 02:22 PM Reply With Quote
Some cars do have adjustable limit bolts on the uprights like my Nissan and all cars fitted with steering boxes have them but there is no reason to fit them on a rack equipped car unless you have clearance issues. The car will only be on full lock at low speeds so the loading on the rack pinion will be minimal.





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blakep82

posted on 17/4/08 at 02:34 PM Reply With Quote
you're not supposed to hold power steering racks on full lock for more than a few seconds, but thats it...





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Mr Whippy

posted on 17/4/08 at 02:47 PM Reply With Quote
I thought the pressure relief valve would just open and bypass the flow to the reservoir, you can hear the valve whine like my digger does at full travel with the arm.





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blakep82

posted on 17/4/08 at 02:48 PM Reply With Quote
^ probably. its just what i read in one of my cars handbooks at some time.





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snapper

posted on 17/4/08 at 05:27 PM Reply With Quote
Cheapest quick(er) rack if it is a Sierra rack is to use the Sierra power steering one with some fluid in the pipes and the pipes joined together, stops the moving parts seezing up





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MustangSix

posted on 17/4/08 at 06:21 PM Reply With Quote
Using the steering rack as a limit has a couple of potential drawbacks.

First, many racks only have a snap ring to limit rack travel. That is not a very sturdy stop.

Second, if the rack should fail at that point, there is the potential for the spindle to overtravel. That potentially sets up conditions for an overcenter which would not allow a return, fouling of bodywork, or potentially even tearing off the brake lines.

Third, even once the stops are reached, the effect is then transferred to the rack mounts. With rubber mounts, that means you have rubber stops. The mount would have to be designed to withstand that type of lateral stress.

It is definitely doable, but bear in mind the possible issues.






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bracey

posted on 17/4/08 at 06:49 PM Reply With Quote
what is preffered number of turns for a 7 style car lock to lock for best results ,feel and drive
cheers
richard

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