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Author: Subject: tadpole suspension
malakiblunt
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Building: R1 Midengined scratch build Tadpole- The TROTTER

posted on 25/10/04 at 09:35 PM Reply With Quote
tadpole suspension

any one got any thoughts on tadpole suspension design?
im currently planing on a F1 style front aero wishbones and monoshock, with a below ground roll center,and VERY stiff in roll,

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Rorty

posted on 26/10/04 at 01:25 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by malakiblunt
any one got any thoughts on tadpole suspension design?
im currently planing on a F1 style front aero wishbones and monoshock, with a below ground roll center,and VERY stiff in roll,


Sounds like my Hammerhead trike. I put the static roll centre below ground, run very soft springs on the shocks and then use an anti-roll bar for cornering stability.





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malakiblunt
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Building: R1 Midengined scratch build Tadpole- The TROTTER

posted on 26/10/04 at 11:05 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Rorty
exelent great minds think alike!

good site btw

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Hugh Jarce

posted on 26/10/04 at 11:24 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by malakiblunt
Hi Rorty
exelent great minds think alike!

good site btw


Mediochre minds seldom differ!

I'm sure Rorty won't mind you copying his design, but he may object to his product names being misrepresented.





The pay isn't very good , but the work's hard.

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malakiblunt
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Building: R1 Midengined scratch build Tadpole- The TROTTER

posted on 28/10/04 at 12:03 AM Reply With Quote
the fact that we have reached they same conclusions over suspension geometry i think has more to do with logic and reason than plagarism,
a below ground roll center is the logical soultion for a trike because of the enforced ground level rear R/C as it is common knolage and good practice to have the front R/C lower than the rear asumeing a rear weight bias.And with such a low R/C very stiff roll controll becomes absolutly essential.
apart from that they only things are trike designs have in comon is the Number of wheels.

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dpaws

posted on 11/9/11 at 06:47 AM Reply With Quote
Front static roll centre - reverse trike

quote:
Originally posted by malakiblunt

a below ground roll center is the logical soultion for a trike because of the enforced ground level rear R/C as it is common knolage and good practice to have the front R/C lower than the rear asumeing a rear weight bias.


I'm afraid I'm confused - why would you design a rear weight bias on a reverse trike? I would have thought at the most 33% aft of the front axle, if not further forward....

How would this alter the ideal position for the static front R/C? I had casually assumed as high as possible to avoid the outward weight transfer and thus the tendency to pick up the inside wheel?

How would the use of front wheel drive alter this roll centre requirement, if at all?

Much obliged.....

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Benzine

posted on 11/9/11 at 07:06 AM Reply With Quote
lol @ 7 year bump. malakiblunt was last online nearly 7 years ago still, he might have got an email notification

[Edited on 11/9/11 by Benzine]

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smart51

posted on 11/9/11 at 07:07 AM Reply With Quote
The best place for the CofG on a trike is just inboard of the 2 wheeled axle. If you only have 33% of the weight behind the front axle, there's a risk of tipping up under braking.






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snapper

posted on 11/9/11 at 07:27 AM Reply With Quote
I've just unwittingly gained some more knowledge of suspension geometry and design.
I love this forum.
Ta.





I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)

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dpaws

posted on 11/9/11 at 07:45 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
The best place for the CofG on a trike is just inboard of the 2 wheeled axle. If you only have 33% of the weight behind the front axle, there's a risk of tipping up under braking.


More confusion, sorry - I was referring to the position of the calculated CofG.

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smart51

posted on 11/9/11 at 05:56 PM Reply With Quote
Sorry for the confusion. Imagine hanging a plumb weight from the CofG. If you accelerate the weight swings backwards, if you brake it swings forwards. if you corner it swings to the side. If the point on the ground it points too is outside a line drawm around the tyres, you tip over. N ow if your CofG is right under the front axle, every time you brake, you tip up.

The higher your CofG. the further back you need it to be. This reduces your cornering, so you want CofG to be as low as possible. Ideally, you want it equidistant from the sides of your "triangle" and low enough for 1.5g or more of cornering, braking and acceleration.






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