Bass1st
|
| posted on 25/9/10 at 07:39 PM |
|
|
Leak down tester anyone?
I am experiencing some strange engine problems at the mo. Running really rough (after a trip to a rolling road) and I think I may have a compression
issue as electrics all test out OK. I did a test using a compression tester and it was not conclusive so want to do a proper test before taking the
head off. Anyone got a leak down tester I could borrow?? Don't want to spend 60 quid on one!
|
|
|
|
|
clairetoo
|
| posted on 25/9/10 at 08:10 PM |
|
|
I've got one sitting in the kitchen - brand new and un-used - if no one nearer to comes to the rescue I'm not a million miles
away..........
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
|
|
|
Bass1st
|
| posted on 25/9/10 at 08:58 PM |
|
|
Thanks Claire... as you say, lets see if anyone closer can help, if not will take you up on the offer.
|
|
|
DorsetStrider
|
| posted on 25/9/10 at 09:02 PM |
|
|
I saw plans somewhere online on how to build one. A google search should turn them up it that helps?
Who the f**K tightened this up!
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 25/9/10 at 09:06 PM |
|
|
If it is running really rough a leak down test won't tell you anything a properly done compression test didn't show up. It actually takes
quite a very big loss of compression to make an engine run really roughly.
A leak down test is about assessing the engine general state of health of the engine or looking for small losses in performance or to identify
exactly what component is leaking.
Check the plugs and valve clearances also check the carb jets are clear and screwed in properly, look for water in the float chambers and
check the float levels.
Check the carbs are properly synched and the inlet manifold for vacuum leaks. Check the fuel delivery.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
Bass1st
|
| posted on 25/9/10 at 09:20 PM |
|
|
I have changed the plugs... ones that came out where all the same colour (black). I have checked the cam clearances and they are all in spec. Not sure
if I can check the valve clearances with the head coming off? Checked jets - all clear and screwed in OK. Not checked for float levels or water - good
idea, will try tomorrow. Carbs where synched at the rolling road so hope this is not the issue. Will check if vacuum leaks as I have not done this
either. Is there anything else on the carbs that could be blocked that I could check (DHLA 45's)?
Appreciate the advice.
Might post a video if I still can't crack it.
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 25/9/10 at 09:46 PM |
|
|
If the plugs are black it is running too rich ---- were the ( idle) jets changed for larger ones ?
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 26/9/10 at 07:31 AM |
|
|
What engine, fueling, ignition? What was done at the RR session? Just a power run or was the fueling/ignition altered?
If it ran right before you need to be looking at what could have happened on the RR.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
MakeEverything
|
| posted on 26/9/10 at 10:46 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Bass1st
I have changed the plugs... ones that came out where all the same colour (black). I have checked the cam clearances and they are all in spec. Not sure
if I can check the valve clearances with the head coming off? Checked jets - all clear and screwed in OK. Not checked for float levels or water - good
idea, will try tomorrow. Carbs where synched at the rolling road so hope this is not the issue. Will check if vacuum leaks as I have not done this
either. Is there anything else on the carbs that could be blocked that I could check (DHLA 45's)?
Appreciate the advice.
Might post a video if I still can't crack it.
You check the valve clearances at the stem end, not the head end, and involves revolving the engine to release the pressure on the stem, then checking
for slack or too much tension when the valve should be closed.
Youre figures looked ok to me. Every engine is different, and as long as the cylinders are all in the same area (which yours are) then that shows
even wear on the rings and valve train.
Personally, unless the engine is running really rough, id leave it alone. If the mileage is that high, then it might even be due a rebuild.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
|
|
|
Bass1st
|
| posted on 26/9/10 at 02:12 PM |
|
|
The car was rejetted at the RR which was why I booked the session. It was running very lean after I upgraded the cams and as I plan to use it on the
track we decided to be on the safe side. The car ran OK when I left the RR - but slowly developed the fault as I drove home. Engine is now doing it
all the time.
I do have the old idle jets so I might try them and see if it makes any difference.
Engine is a 4age 16v smallport running DHLA 45's.
|
|
|
Bass1st
|
| posted on 26/9/10 at 02:33 PM |
|
|
... Omex 100 and standard Dizzy
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 26/9/10 at 05:10 PM |
|
|
Put the original jets back in and see how it runs ---- simple thing first.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
atspeed racing
|
| posted on 28/9/10 at 07:04 AM |
|
|
Why not pop back and see the rolling road operator. He may have made a mistake or something could have gone wrong.
I am sure if you ask him politley he will be more than willing to spend a few minutes having a look.
I would advise you not to fiddle with it as this could make matters worse and make it harder for him to trace any fault.
[Edited on 28/9/10 by atspeed racing]
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
Bass1st
|
| posted on 28/9/10 at 07:47 AM |
|
|
I did talk with him and we went over what we had done to see if anything obvious cropped up. Issue is the car is not drivable as it stands today -
keeps stalling.
All we did was balance the carbs and change the idle and main jets. Did a before any after dyno run and that was it.
When the car arrived he did mention that the car was not running 100% smoothly and we did a compression test that showed cylinder 2 was slightly down,
so probably a valve or piston issue developing.
The only thing we could come up with was that the dyno run had made the compression problem worse.
The only other thing to mention was that we forgot to put the little black covers back on over the idle/main jets when I drove home. I don't
think this would have made any difference, unless some muck has got in somewhere?
|
|
|
Bass1st
|
| posted on 2/10/10 at 07:53 PM |
|
|
Put the old idle jets in and the car runs much better. Adjusted the timing a little and it ran even better. So that was the good news..
Went for a quick blast and the alternator belt snapped - knocked the crank sensor off which then ended up knocking a hole in my nose cone! Thankfully
only superficial damage done - just need a new belt now.
|
|
|
matt_gsxr
|
| posted on 2/10/10 at 09:24 PM |
|
|
I bet it turns out to be electrical.
Just because the plugs fire out of the engine, doesn't mean they work in the engine.
If you have a strobe light that triggers from the spark lead then you can use it to determine whether the sparks are coming as expected.
Matt
p.s. Sorry I don't have a leak down tester.
|
|
|
