Hellfire
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 posted on 28/10/03 at 09:43 PM |
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Engine Stud Removal Advice
Hope you guys can help us out here...
We bought a 1995 'blade engine which we later discovered had sheared a stud on the exhaust manifold side (8mm x 1.25 - we think). Initially
there was 3mm'ish of sheared stud to play with... so, after advice we welded a nut onto the said stud end... twisted and snapped it again.
Welded on a 2mm plate with large'ish chamfer on reverse to get a good fillet type weld... snapped stud again. Now almost flat...
Drilled it out to 6mm... used stud extractor and split aluminium protrusion (not going into port - luckily!) I've since drilled out to core
diameter to try to tease out remaining bits of thread... with little luck.
Would anyone be so brave to recommend my next venture into stud-removal?
Thanks in anticipation...
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 28/10/03 at 09:51 PM |
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buy a "hellicoil" (not sure of speeling !!!) and drill it out to suit, allways works on alloy.
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Hellfire
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| posted on 28/10/03 at 09:55 PM |
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Jon,
thanks for advice. However, aluminium has split - will helicoil do it?
Will put picture in archive tomorrow.
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benedict
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| posted on 28/10/03 at 10:45 PM |
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Just a thought...
My ZX9 has a steel flange on each downpipe which pushes up over the studs in the head and tightens the pipe into the apperture.
If the blade is the same, could you get the flange that should go over the stud in question AND it's neighbour replaced with a single piece of
metal over the 2 pipes. Maybe then you could tighten it up with just the 3 bolts instead of 4??????
Cheers,
Ben
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Hellfire
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| posted on 28/10/03 at 10:57 PM |
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Ben,
Looks like that is how it must have been done B4! May be the second option left... first option, new block?
OUCH!!!
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steve m
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| posted on 28/10/03 at 11:58 PM |
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Have you done a search on "stud removal" ???
I just did and got 38,000 results
I say, Its your stud, you look thru them all !!!!!!!
only joking
some where I have an article about steel stud removal, from an alui block of metal
that is done with an acid, It breaks up the steel stud, but does not affect the alui
the only problem is "it takes weeks"
I will look for it when I get home from work, about 8 hours time
steve
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timf
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| posted on 29/10/03 at 08:40 AM |
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find someone local who does spark erosion and they will be able to get the stud out, they would probable know someone who could tig the crack and then
helicoil it as wel
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Hellfire
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| posted on 1/11/03 at 11:34 PM |
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Result...
after much consideration about the whole comments left on here.
What is the concensus of opinion on this:
Drill out remaining stud. Re-tap 7/16BSF full depth of thread. This gives larger diameter thread with similar TPI. As 'lug' is cracked not
the full thread this should give us some thread to work with. Buy a 7/16 High Tensile stud and re-cut an M8 thread on one side to retain original
manifold thread size and nut?
Any takers? 
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OX
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| posted on 3/11/03 at 12:54 AM |
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we use things called time certs ,if you wanna pop over i will do it for you ,is the engine out
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Hellfire
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| posted on 3/11/03 at 01:12 PM |
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Engine is almost out (not connected to anything other than engine cradle at the mo). Whereabouts are you ? What are these things called time certs ?
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OX
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| posted on 3/11/03 at 08:24 PM |
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YIP time certs well thats what iv called them for years i will put a picture up tomorrow for you to have a look at,i live in a little town called
market drayton in shropshire
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Hellfire
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 posted on 4/11/03 at 12:04 AM |
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Problem is...
Ox,
Thanks for your posting's and confidence in whatever it is you plan to do.
It's quite a long way from where we are so it's not so much a two minute drive as a day jaunt! However, I'm posting the image of our
problem for you to get a better idea of the severity. Also, what sort of time/cost is involved?
 
Rescued attachment Pb030868.jpg
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 4/11/03 at 12:17 AM |
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Anyone thats handy with a Tig welder should be able to weld that crack up for you, then all you need to do is re-drill it and Helicoil it
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OX
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| posted on 4/11/03 at 02:03 PM |
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i cant do tig welding but i shouldnt think it will cost more than £20 if you bring it on a monday (my day off) i will do it for a chocy biscuit,or
send me the engine and then pick it up on a saturday,i can get a bloke called paul gollins to do the welding for you,he is god with the tig we use him
all the time
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Hellfire
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| posted on 7/11/03 at 01:42 AM |
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Time Certs
OX - so basically they are helicoils? Well, why didn't you say? Thanks for putting picture into Archive m8 - will call you
tomorrow/today (Friday) about it!
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locoboy
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| posted on 7/11/03 at 09:30 AM |
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OX another fellow Shropshite!
Im in High Ercall, just down the road.
ATB
Locoboy
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timf
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| posted on 7/11/03 at 09:50 AM |
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ox
i like the paddle type gear change, nice job
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OX
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| posted on 7/11/03 at 02:09 PM |
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YIP there abit like helicoils cuz they do the same job but totaly different realy,i think time serts give a stronger thread but take a bit longer
to put in .
col pop down for a beer m8 i work at wylie and hollands there are 2 other guys with mk indy blades in drayton,bourne and 8 thumpers.
cheers timf the paddle used to be a fire blade rack that i just cut about and then had it chromed woohoo
edited becouse once i'd read it i thought i sounded abit of a twat
[Edited on 7/11/03 by OX]
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Hellfire
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| posted on 9/11/03 at 09:54 PM |
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BIG THANKS!!!!!!!
Mucho grassy-arse to everyone on here trying to help - we finally manged to get it TIG'd up - we then re-drilled, re-tapped and re-countersunk
to bring it back to something like what it was like before it cracked off!!!
All pictures are on our website of the process we used... many, many thanks to our 'close personal friend', you know who you are...
together with everyone else on here who helped!!!!
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