Hi
Guys
Looking to upgrade the engine over the winter and im looking at 2 engines
Hayabusa
and zzr1400
Which do you guys think is best and why.
Thanks Chris
ZZR. The Busa is still overpriced, and relatively low revving. I would opt for the ZZR as they seem better priced, and crazy powerful!
ZZR any day of the week. More powerful, more unusual etc etc....
As above - ZZR1400
If you intend upgrading again in the future, (Turbo etc.) then go for the Busa. They can take the mods quite easily, which are readily available off
the shelf and are proven to cope with the extra power. If however, you're gonna be happy with N/A then go for the ZZR1400.
Phil
[Edited on 1-9-08 by Hellfire]
Sorry for asking a stupid question - am only really starting to get into BECs - but what sort of power do you get out a busa or zzr 1400?
Whats so stupid about asking the opinion of others before investing £2k to £3k of your hard earned cash?? Not at all a silly thing to ask at all.
Depending on the age of the Busa. You will be looking at upwards of 180bhp and maybe as high as 200bhp with the new model. The ZZR1400 is around the
200bhp mark too apparently. What they actually give in the real world when fitted into a car might be a bit higher or lower depending on exhaust etc
but whatever the figure you can guarantee they will be flippin fast!!! 
I would also go for the busa,for same reasons Phil has said above,but also you can buy brand new 2008 busa's with around 200bhp from the states
complete with clocks for £3500 delivered to your door,all dutys and taxes paid,a bargain
from the same source as a well known engine supplier on
this forum. For that money its not worth messing around with 2nd hand engines with there associated risks,especially if your looking at £2500 to
£3000+ for a zzr1400 or busa.Chris Mason has just bought one for his new project
Here's a link to Chris Masons post,regarding his new busa engine.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=95270&page=1
[Edited on 19/05/04 by PAUL FISHER]
i installed an 07 zzr1400 in April.
Relatively cheap compared to same year 'busa.
But theres a lot of hidden costs involved.
There's a lot of "one off" costs...custom made cradle, exhaust, sump, petrol tanks etc.
Then installation which,if i did'nt do it meself (with help of mates) would of cost a lot, (adapting wiring was a huge headache).
Like the busa,gear ratios are wrong for car, so you need a 3.14 diff to make the most off it.
BUT the end result is i've got a car with sentational performance (0-60 3secs or sub, top speed 137mph) and mega grin factor.
I hav'nt tried it on track yet but i know it's going to be a LOT faster than my last XE powered indy.
I've thrown the ZX12R into the equation just for comparison purposes. Also, motorcycle manufacturers tend to quote BHP figures which include the
effects of ram-air (something you won't benefit from in a seven) These figures are for 2004/2005 models
ZZR1400
197 bhp
114 ft.lbs of torque
ZX12R
178 bhp
99 ft.lbs of torque
Hayabusa
175 bhp
103 ft.lbs of torque
Phil
Powerwise i have'nt had it on rolling road yet (on list of 'to do's).
Since fitting a power commander and GiPRO there is a lot more pull and response, so it could be over 200hp.
I'll let you know.
Just thinking about the above with Phil mentioning the ZX12R. Chester Sportscars fitted one into a TigerSupercat, and used the exhaust headers supplied by Tiger for the ZX9R. Not sure if there was much modification needed at all but this may be a consideration for you as you have a ZX9R already
Bear in mind the quoted BHP figures are crank HP not Rear Wheel HP. My '01 busa was rolling roaded at 165 RWHP equating I'm told to 182 Crank HP. I'd go with the Busa every time as there are no end of aftermarket parts available off the shelf as they are THE drag bike. The new 2008 Busa is more powerful but higher compression so is not the one to go for if you are planning a blower or turbo.
Hi chris, does this mean there will be ZX9R for sale soon? iam looking into building a indy and want a bike engine. if it is for sale can i have first dibs?
quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
I've thrown the ZX12R into the equation just for comparison purposes. Also, motorcycle manufacturers tend to quote BHP figures which include the effects of ram-air (something you won't benefit from in a seven) These figures are for 2004/2005 models
ZZR1400
197 bhp
114 ft.lbs of torque
ZX12R
178 bhp
99 ft.lbs of torque
Hayabusa
175 bhp
103 ft.lbs of torque
Phil
Ive put photos of installation of zzr1400 in photo archve if anybody wants a study.
Dave
Hi
have you dry sumped the zzr if so what make did you go for , if you didnt have you had to shorten the sump.
Thanks Chris
You should post the details where you got your engine from Chris,how easy it was,and how cheap it was,so others can benifit,might save a few of us
getting ripped off by 2nd hand bike engine suppliers in the UK
Malc (Yorkshire engines) was selling 08 Hayabusa's for £4700 which is over twice the price i paid for 07 zzr1400!
Granted i had to get a couple things specially made, but still a hell of saving!
Anyway i like a challenge, if it was easy it'd be boring!
Dave
What have you done to convert the ZZR1400 for BEC use? Dry sump or baffle plate? Anything else? Experience from track use?
Chris you have U2U
I must admit that my engine from Malc was less than the £4700 claimed.
It all depends on what you want - I'd rather pay extra for an engine that has done zero miles, that way I can be sure how it gets run in etc and
certain comfort in knowing it comes from someone established who would be willing to give you another should it be kek.
Skippad - you got a very good deal if you got an 07 ZZR for less than £2350 - and very surprising as I haven't seen or heard of one going that
cheap (including ones been down the road) and I've been looking for the past 6 months or so..... Guess I don't know where to look!!
The sump is standard at moment but i need to change it soon, as ive caught sump plug a few times and i'm pushing my luck.
Theres 3 alternatives, chop existing sump 30mm can be took off (better than nothing). Mate is alli welder, cost a couple of pints.
Billet sump and relocate filter kit £650
Dry sump kit £2500 
Mmmm which one shall i try first....
I got engine from Malc at less than that price. 1400mls on engine.
with all extras, cradle, prop adaptor, exhaust system, power commander, swirl pot, 3.14 LSD diff another £1200 (not including my and mates time)
Dave
The following is just my opinion but the knowledge was gained through experience.
Most cut down oil pans will cause problems due to their shape after cutting.
In the original form the oil pans had a small sump area at the bottom and sloped sides above that area. If you cut off the sump area for clearance
you are left with a V shaped oil pan. The sloped sides make it very easy for the oil to flow away from the pickup under hard acceleration or
cornering.
We have found that the billet Koenig oil pans with the swivel pickup are a much better solution. They actually hold more oil than a stock pan due to
their rectangular shape.
I'm generally not in favor of dry sump systems due to their added weight, complexity, and multiple points of potential failure.
Yep it was this theory that led me down the wets sump option that SBD does. I have never had any oil related issues with the blade motors I've
had in the past that had the similar sump set up.
I do undertsnad the upside for dry sumping though - another one of those things - different strokes for different strokes. I hope i'm not back
here crying after 500miles........
Yep it was this theory that led me down the wets sump option that SBD does. I have never had any oil related issues with the blade motors I've
had in the past that had the similar sump set up.
I do undertsnad the upside for dry sumping though - another one of those things - different strokes for different strokes. I hope i'm not back
here crying after 500miles........
quote:
Originally posted by Chet
The following is just my opinion but the knowledge was gained through experience.
Most cut down oil pans will cause problems due to their shape after cutting.
In the original form the oil pans had a small sump area at the bottom and sloped sides above that area. If you cut off the sump area for clearance you are left with a V shaped oil pan. The sloped sides make it very easy for the oil to flow away from the pickup under hard acceleration or cornering.
We have found that the billet Koenig oil pans with the swivel pickup are a much better solution. They actually hold more oil than a stock pan due to their rectangular shape.
I'm generally not in favor of dry sump systems due to their added weight, complexity, and multiple points of potential failure.
)