Has anyone set up a GTS W7DE for track use. What spring shock combination did you find was the best. Any other camber, toe, hight, settings would be appreciated.
Just click edit at the top of your post, tick the box "delete this message" and then click the edit button
/ / Why type that? He was asking a question on a topic that people may be able to help with. He is also new so you could be a little more polite /
/
Unless I have missed something here.
Oh and I cant help soz!!!
Maybe contact GTS? I am sure there are people on here that use their GTS on track quite a bit
I posted it in 2 locations because I thought that some of the racers might be able to offer some advice and on the GTS page as there may be some
dedicated GTS people with info there.
I cant just drop into Procomp as I live in Dubai and I thought that there might be a competition orientated person on this forum who might provide
some constructive advice.
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
/ / Why type that? He was asking a question on a topic that people may be able to help with. He is also new so you could be a little more polite / /
Unless I have missed something here.
Oh and I cant help soz!!!
Maybe contact GTS? I am sure there are people on here that use their GTS on track quite a bit
Thanks for the help Reman. With the help of Darren at GTS I have sorted the suspension.
And the answer was? I have the wide bones with Sierra uprights and was about to post the same question.
Hope you didnt post in two places youll get into trouble.
I guess you probably have 275 lbs front and 150 lbs rear as standard. For track, use 350 lb on the front and put the 275 on the rear. If it seems too
stiff at the rear spend some more money and get 225s. You may also find that you dont have enough droop on the rear. With mine 25mm of body roll
unweights the inside wheel, so some redesign required. One more thing, your trailing arms with the nylon bushes only allow vertical parallel movement.
To check this, jack the rear, drop off the shocks then try and lift each hub one side at a time to simulate what happens when you get body roll. Dont
get a hernia. All will be revealed. Solution --rose joint rear but I wouldnt recommend that for the road.
Darren at GTS has been very helpful. Have a chat with him.
PS I didnt get one reply on the subject on this forum. Guess no-one goes to the track.
One thing I forgot to mention, keep an eye on your wide front wishbones. Ive been told they can bend. Mine have been beefed up aftermarket.
Cheers
Nice reply thanks. I shant be contacting Darren though
Cheers
Can you post or send me pics of the beefed up bones?
And what about the front toe and camber?
Ill post a pic of the front wishbones when I work out how to. Front camber is set to 2 deg neg and toe at 2mm out. But you need to fine tune it with a pyro and feel as you drive. depends on what tyres youre using too. look at the wear on your tyres too. use what ive said as a starting point but you will have to fine tune. Feel what the car is telling you and look at photos of your car going thru corners.
quote:
Originally posted by aeromanboeing
Hope you didnt post in two places youll get into trouble.
I guess you probably have 275 lbs front and 150 lbs rear as standard. For track, use 350 lb on the front and put the 275 on the rear. If it seems too stiff at the rear spend some more money and get 225s. You may also find that you dont have enough droop on the rear. With mine 25mm of body roll unweights the inside wheel, so some redesign required. One more thing, your trailing arms with the nylon bushes only allow vertical parallel movement. To check this, jack the rear, drop off the shocks then try and lift each hub one side at a time to simulate what happens when you get body roll. Dont get a hernia. All will be revealed. Solution --rose joint rear but I wouldnt recommend that for the road.
Darren at GTS has been very helpful. Have a chat with him.
PS I didnt get one reply on the subject on this forum. Guess no-one goes to the track.
Toe out on the front. Everyones telling me 0.5 to 1 degree toe in?
run what Caterham use (apparently) worked well enough for me....
tracking straight, 0 toe. about 3.5 deg neg camber
springs, you want 275 front and 180 rear. no real need for anything stiffer. might need 300 front with a heavy engine (pinto).
run about 1" rake on the car, higher at the back. front set to 4".
Polybushes work fine as well, they might be a bit tight and need reaming and stainless crush tubes fitting.
Fit an under tray at the back as well, helps airflow under the car, i have pics of mine in the archive.
Just a starting point, but it will get you close.
[Edited on 31/5/11 by flak monkey]
Flak, is this a track setting or road? I have fitted a flat undertray on the back.
Was the recommended settings I was given and couldn't find fault, handling was totally neutral when pushed with 185/60r13 and 205/60r13 R888 GG
tyres.
You could run the car lower on the track (3" at the front maybe) and possibly slightly stiffer on the springs.
Its a starting point if nothing else....
If you really want your car setup properly you need to speak to someone like Procomp who have more experience doing this stuff than most. Get the car
on the track, get some action photos taken or use a proper datalogger to analyse what is going on. Depends on how good you want it to be at the end of
the day. Getting it spot on will cost time and money, no-one will be able to give you a perfect answer.
Gotcha. Like the sound of neutral handling. Whats the tyre wear like with that amount of neg camber? Cheers.
In the 7000miles it did on the original tyres I didnt notice anything untoward, like I say its just a starting point and will vary depending on your
cars weight distribution.