Edwardo
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| posted on 22/10/20 at 06:08 PM |
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Weighed the Bike Engine'd Locost
Evening all,
Finally got round to weighing the Locost with the CBR1000F engine in the other weekend and was a little disappointed with result - just wanted to see
if I'm worrying unduly. Did it 3 times.
1st measure - 548Kg
2nd measure - 547Kg
3rd measure - 546Kg
Weights were taken using 4 digital scales under each of the wheels and added together. Scales were Ebay specials so would say +/- 10% However checking
my own weight against the expensive bathroom ones came out bang on the same - so seem reasonably accurate.
I weighed the engine when it was out earlier this year. Being the predecessor to the first carb'd Fireblade it's heavier at exactly
84.65Kg which is quite a lot for a bike engine I believe?
Just a little surprised by the total weight bearing in mind it's running no windscreen or associated paraphernalia/13" wheels/Fibreglass
seats etc etc?
It did have a full tank of fuel - but from researching others posts on here - theirs were also weighed with full tanks and were coming out less. It
does have stainless steel panels down both sides and rear tub however (not for long!). Surely it can't be adding that much weight?
Anybody think of something silly/obvious I haven't considered or is this actually about right for what I have?
Cheers
Tony
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adamswifty
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| posted on 22/10/20 at 06:23 PM |
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Tubular chassis, scuttle and roll bar?
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Edwardo
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| posted on 22/10/20 at 06:29 PM |
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Book Locost chassis, so box section. Roll-bar looks slightly higher than it should be though so good point on that one. Scuttle Fibreglass - bonnet
aluminium.
Not much else going on in the engine bay :-
[Edited on 22/10/20 by Edwardo]
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adamswifty
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| posted on 22/10/20 at 06:35 PM |
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Ahh ok, was looking at your older pics.
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Edwardo
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 posted on 22/10/20 at 06:39 PM |
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Ahhhh right - yes that would be the horrendous Robin Hood 2B I was building prior to this 
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steve m
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| posted on 22/10/20 at 09:29 PM |
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That seems Very heavy, as my ford xflow powered locost weighed 501 kg and that was weighed on four normal bathroom scales
I moved the scales around, the four wheels and always came within 500-503kg
The four scales total was around 600kg, so i was never close to a max reading
But, i did do an awful lot of weight saving,
The wiring loom, (home made) was absolute to the min
EVERY single bolt that was not critical was cut to the shortest possible length
every critical bolt as in suspension, had no more than three threads showing, i believe MOT standards are 2 threads showing
And i had a full carpeted interior
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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adamswifty
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| posted on 22/10/20 at 10:57 PM |
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What brake callipers are they? you also have a checker plate boot lid?, maybe just a case of chipping away?
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voucht
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 04:45 AM |
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Hi,
Stupid question perhaps, but how much fluid was in the car when you weighted it? Fuel, coolant, oil, etc. Weight difference can be huge between a dry
and a completely filled car.
https://vouchtroadster.blogspot.com/
https://cafrazx550.blogspot.com/
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snapper
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 06:50 AM |
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Keep weighing it..
It’s getting lighter every time, another 50 weigh’s will make a difference
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Slater
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 08:19 AM |
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Steel floor?
The SS side panels will be fairly heavy
Why do they call Port Harcourt "The Garden City"?...... Becauase they can't spell Stramash.
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joneh
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 08:34 AM |
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What thickness steel did you use to build the chassis? Maybe around 20kg extra ish with 3mm vs 2mm box section over a chassis.
Are those wheels heavy?
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 09:10 AM |
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Then again, you don't want it so light weight it falls apart or is certain death in a crash. To put it into some perspective, its still 450kg
lighter than the curb weight of my tiny VW up which is the same length and a lightweight tiptop.
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Edwardo
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 09:31 AM |
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Thanks or the replies all.
I don't want to end up getting obsessive about weight like some people can - it's just seeing that Steve m's equivalent car with a
X-flow engine and associated gearbox was nearly 50kg lighter def makes me wonder what's amiss here with mine as it should be lighter with a bike
engine (one of if not the main benefit of fitting a bike engine of course). Out of interest, what does a X-flow+gearbox weigh?
I didn't build the chassis so not sure what gauge the box section is - I'm assuming standard book thickness but will def try and measure
when it's stripped down over Christmas.
It does have a welded in steel floor
Cortina brake calipers
Each rim 5.48Kg (I weighed them before having the tyres fitted)
All fluids present and a full tank of fuel in the Mk2 escort van fuel tank it was built with (not sure how many litres - but looks pretty small).
Cheers
Tony
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adamswifty
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 10:18 AM |
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The M16 callipers are around 8KG the pair, you could save 6KG (ish) by swapping to HiSpec ultralight or similar.
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steve m
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 10:21 AM |
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My car had a steel floor, it was the roof off the mk2 escort
about a gallon of fuel, and all other fluids were in,
I had 4pot princess calipers, and they are a lot heavier than the M16 cortina ones
But my biggest weight saving from when i built the car was the tyres and superlight wheels, as all four were lighter than two the old 7j capri wheels
with
big 205 tyres, and i used to have a spare on the back as well!
Also from memory, the boot was empty, so a bit of a false reading, as i always carried a gallon of fuel, oil, tools, jump leads etc and a spare
engine!
(well bits of one)
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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Deckman001
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 10:44 AM |
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I think on my IVA application form, I put down 700kgs, 350 per axle. But at the test, they add the drivers weight, a passengers weight as well as two
peoples luggage to get a top weight. They have asked me to change something on the paperwork when i go back, so am guessing my rear axle weights were
quite a bit out sadly.
Mine is book, but with a steel floor, a full fuel tank and lots of lightened parts to try and help keep they weight down.
Oh and a x/flow similar to Steve's above.
Jason
[Edited on 23/10/20 by Deckman001]
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Edwardo
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 11:18 AM |
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I think initially it's probably just a case of doing the obvious ones for now then and having another re-weigh (chipping away as mentioned).
I'm sure that when I replace the SS side panels and rear with Ali - that will save quite a bit. Deneo recently made me a nice new fuel tank out
of Ali too - so will be throwing the old steel Escort tank out. I suppose every little bit helps. I always planned to throw away the checker plate too
(even tho it's already Ali) so that will all help.
It also has this boot section - which is very handy I have to say - but is also stainless with some thick insulation material stuck solidly to it with
mastic :-
Even after all that I suspect I'll be lucky if it's down to 500Kg.
Hopefully I'll find a gigantic bit of lead wedged into the chassis somewhere when I start pulling it apart
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steve m
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 12:09 PM |
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That boot clad in armour plate, will be very heavy, mine was a simple pull out box thing, made from corex
(stuff that house for sale signs are made off) just doubled up in places and supported with a couple of aluminium strips,
the whole setup weighed precisely nothing !! and then a lightweight tonneau cover that covered the boot area
The stainless sides, you have also, are way over the top, (mine were 1.5 mm alui) but yours may of been done to aid in the rigidity of the home made
chassis, so i think you should keep the sides, as you do not know whats hiding beneath
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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adampage
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 12:28 PM |
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I think it sounds pretty good
It sounds ok to me, given some bike engines are lighter than that one, and it sounds like your materials are all the 'standard' ones i.e.
steel & fibreglass, not aluminium and carbon fibre.
I think to get down to the 400-500kg range you're likely to need more aluminium in the floor and body instead of steel, and carbon instead of
grp, then look at components and swap out to save the odd extra kg here & there.
So you have swap £££s for the lbs.....
Ad
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procomp
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 01:58 PM |
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To give a good reference.
Locost race car 750 book spec, Full cage ready to race X flow with 4speed box. 525KG
Our LA golds.Full cage Zetec type 9, ready to race 535KG ( with dry sump 9ltr oil etc etc 549Kg )
ST motorsport Locost. Full cage bike engine 919 blade, ready to race no expensive carbon bits just built light INC reverse. 450Kg
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Edwardo
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| posted on 23/10/20 at 02:38 PM |
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Thanks Procomp - Good grief, I'm a mile off then!! Gotta find best part of 100Kg from somewhere?!
Maybe a previous builder injected concrete into the frame
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 24/10/20 at 09:01 AM |
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Dead body hidden somewhere? Is there a smell?
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CosKev3
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| posted on 25/10/20 at 09:28 AM |
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It's about the correct weight for a BEC with a square box section chassis in road going spec.
Unless you are going to race it it's not worth worrying about.
Although saying that that engine is pretty heavy for a bike engine with lowish BHP.
If you feel it's not powerful/fast enough you would be better off going for a higher power bike engine rather than trying to lighten the car
imo.
Iirc my R1 engine was 58kg and produced 150bhp on the RR.
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hughpinder
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| posted on 26/10/20 at 03:32 PM |
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According to the internet the fuel tank from a mk 2 escort van is 12 gallons and made of steel.
12 Gallons of petrol weigh approx 41kg + tank 15, vs kit car tank about half that and half the fuel. So 25l ally tank + fuel + remove the
soundproofing stuff round the tank and you probably cut of 30kg
Regards
Hugh
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Edwardo
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| posted on 26/10/20 at 06:28 PM |
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Thanks again all - Slight update
As the weather was ok Sun lunchtime - took the car out for it's last spin and to test the new MK gear lever I fitted which has taken out all the
slop and feels great.
Took it steady for 5 mins to warm her up, then when pulling out of a side road - gave it some beans. Back end sat down and a fairly loud
'CLUNK' from behind me. Eased off but seemed ok so assumed the new gear lever must have touched the prop or something. Coasted up to the
speed bump in the road and went over it slowly. Very loud 'CLUNK'! from behind me. Pulled away slowly and the car felt like it was trying
and jump out of gear every few seconds with a thud.
Pulled over and got the nice lad up the road to come tow me back. Jacked it up and took the back wheels off :-
O/S lower suspension bracket snapped:-
N/S lower suspension bracket snapped :-
What a quality design these live axle suspension mounts are At least the brackets have been welded to the infill panel so were at least still
hanging on in Cantilever.
So that obviously settled it for when to start the Winter teardown lol.
[Edited on 26/10/20 by Edwardo]
[Edited on 26/10/20 by Edwardo]
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