786evo8
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posted on 23/5/06 at 01:15 PM |
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newbie
hi everyone
ive been looking around your site and seem to have fallen for the idea of building a BEC.
i would like to build one with the Suzuki Haybusa GSXR1300 engine. now can some kind person point me in the right direction of where i can purchase a
kit that has a tubular chassis (more stronger??) and one that i may be able to fit this engine.
the reason ive chosen this engine is that it is able to produce high bhp which in a light car would be really fun
im currently driving a evo8 (clicky)
but want something for the track which i can have fun in without having a huge repair/maintain cost of the evo. I did look at the K1-attack
(clicky)
kit car but feel it doesn’t fit in with what i want. im looking at spending around 5k for a self build but that’s a blind estimate.
thanks in advance for any information given
cheers
jav
edited to add: how do you change your password?
[Edited on 23/5/06 by 786evo8]
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jav ;-)
MLR evo forum (clicky)
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zxrlocost
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posted on 23/5/06 at 01:30 PM |
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alright jav Id first look at your price tag mate
5k youd use 80% of that on the engine and dry sump which the busa really needs
any of the kit manafacturers MK MNR MAC'1 etc there all 7 type cars take a look in my photo archive under r1 indy thats an MK INDY with a 99 r1
engine
you could build a fireblade version which will still 4secs to 60 which comes up in almost 1st gear
I bought most things brand new like the wheels etc etc quick release LED lights these all add up to about a 9-ten grand car
if you went for a pre 95 engine which might be down on power slightly you would have no emission tests and could upgrade when passed SVA
Ive had all my jap performance cars before and these are in a totally different league there a bit phsyco if you dont respect them
ta chris
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ned
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posted on 23/5/06 at 01:30 PM |
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hello there and welcome.
afriad your budget is rather low unless you alteady have an engine. the hyabusa lump is typically £2500+ and then you need bits to install it in the
car and to build the rest of hte car.
Realistically to get a car on the road I would double your estimate if using that choive of engine.
cheers,
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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shortie
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posted on 23/5/06 at 01:31 PM |
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Welcome to the madhouse!
To be honest if you are going to put a Hyabusa in you are not going to get alot of change out of 4k for the engine and ancillaries alone!!
I would suggest the whole car is realistically going to cost you more like 10k
Best bet is to have a look at MAC1, MNR, MK, GTS, Fisher, RAW and see what you think.
Rich.
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Mezzz
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posted on 23/5/06 at 01:38 PM |
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I would go for an R1 engine
MK Indy
and if you ever want more power! Put NOS + Turbo on it
But your budjet might need increasing
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chockymonster
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posted on 23/5/06 at 02:14 PM |
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I think that all of the MNR vortx chassis are now round tubing, I know my RT+ is, but I'm not sure on the RT. I don't think the MK chassis
is round either.
5k with an R1 engine would build you a Vortx RT, but you'd be cutting corneres and not buying the nicest of everything.
There's no way you'll do it with a 'busa lump as they're around 3 grand alone.
I've just sold my evo v to build my vortx rt+ as I want a cheaper to run track animal.
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donut
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posted on 23/5/06 at 02:32 PM |
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Do you really need round tube with a bike engine??? I think not!
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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ayoungman
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posted on 23/5/06 at 02:53 PM |
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welcome aboard shipmate !
If your finished with your old car.........first dibs to me please
"just like that !"
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786evo8
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posted on 23/5/06 at 03:48 PM |
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thanks for the warm welcome and all the reply’s
so the busa seems to be out of my price range. i heard it was the best so wanted to see what i could get away with but 10k is a bit high form me.
i think i saw the mk indy at the stoneleigh kit car show but never managed to get the details. i think they are attended anther event in mid june so
i’ll pop alone for that.
with regards to the R1 how would this compare to the busa in terms of performance? i take it there is a turbo for the R1 which i could add at a later
date? what kind of performance would i get from a std engine?
the reason for the tubular frame is that it is meant to be stronger but was unsure if it is overkill for a BEC??
once again thanks for the info…….im going to look into the Vortx RT kit and have a look around your site, at least now ive got a list of things i can
type into the search button
cheers guys
jav
nice pics chirs, love the paddle gears on the steering!!
-------------------------
jav ;-)
MLR evo forum (clicky)
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chockymonster
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posted on 23/5/06 at 03:49 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by donut
Do you really need round tube with a bike engine??? I think not!
Probably not, but it does look a lot sexier
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G.Man
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posted on 23/5/06 at 03:57 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by donut
Do you really need round tube with a bike engine??? I think not!
With some bec's now turbo charged and putting out 400bhp+
You can think again...
But then MK dont do an all round tube chassis yet do they?
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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donut
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posted on 23/5/06 at 04:13 PM |
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They have a new chassis that looks more than up to the job..
I have never heard anyone complain about their chassis flexing or not being up to the job regardless of chassis make and/or bike engine used. If they
can take a V8, Honda S2000 and powerful Zetecs then a 200bhp bike engine should be no problem i would have thought.
[Edited on 23/5/06 by donut]
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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Jon Ison
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posted on 23/5/06 at 04:28 PM |
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After two 3 figure "incidents" in an Mk chassis one included several rolls, the other 100mph+ too zero mph in 2 yards, both of which I
walked away from with nothing more than a sore neck, seat belt rash and a few bruises I can testify that an MK chassis is more than up too the job,
now I must go and cut chunks off things too get that engine in.......
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OX
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posted on 23/5/06 at 04:47 PM |
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have you thought about the zx12 engine ,only 500 pound more than an r1 .
you can turbo the r1 but it will cost you over 4k to do it.
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Hellfire
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posted on 23/5/06 at 05:45 PM |
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Jav,
have a look at our website and read our build and rebuild diaries. It should give you some idea of whats involved in building an MK Indy with a bike
engine. Other manufacturers will be pretty similar. Like OX says, it's worth considering the ZX12R. Slightly more BHP but slightly less
torque. Overall, pretty similar performance wise. The Busa is better catered for though in the aftermarket goodies department.
Phil
[Edited on 23-5-06 by Hellfire]
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ChrisGamlin
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posted on 23/5/06 at 06:10 PM |
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Hi Jav
To answer the question about the comparative performance of an R1 and a busa, the busa will be a little quicker, but in my experience you really only
notice a significant difference at very high track speeds (ie 100+mph). Half the reason is because although the R1 is 20bhp down on the busa/ZX12, its
around 30kgs lighter so gains back a bit in power/weight terms.
The ZX12 is a good alternative to the busa though, and although its not as well proven on track so its hard to say 100% whether it needs a dry sump
for extreme track driving, the signs look promising as there's now several cars out there with wet sumps and they havent gone pop yet I dont
think.
Try getting along to a local meet or see if anyone on here will take you out for a spin, because even a blade will blow your socks off and are still
very quick on track so don't discount those engines. If you're near me (north Hants / Surrey border) then Id be happy to take you for a
spin.
cheers
Chris
[Edited on 23/5/06 by ChrisGamlin]
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zxrlocost
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posted on 23/5/06 at 06:40 PM |
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glad you likebelieve me mate as like I say I love and have had performance Jap Cars, these things are in a totally different league they do anything
from a 3.5 to 4 secs to 60
remember they rev to 11.5k+ this is the part that catches people out
and you cannot beat the noise from a bike engine
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mark chandler
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posted on 23/5/06 at 08:24 PM |
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The one I,m building is all home built, using an 893 blade engine for emmissions.
Mostly round tube chasis and as many ali panels as I can get as weight will be key with a low power unit.
So far cost is £3k and I can lift each end seperately with only a few pounds in weight to add now.
If it cannot make a sub 4sec 0-60 when its finished I,ll be in tears .
So far 6 months of 1 day a week... its a lot of work, you may be better off scanning Ebay for a bargin and changing out the engine.
The question you need to ask yourself is s how good are you with your hands and how patient ?
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JUD
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posted on 23/5/06 at 08:51 PM |
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I would echo what Chris (zxrlocost) has said.
The performance is in a different league. I have had modified Impreza's in the past and they are nothing in comparison to a BEC.
I am running a stock Blade in my MK and the performance is "more than adequate" for road use. Yet to take it on a track to see if I get
passed by everything else, so I may want a Hayabusa if that happens!
Don't underestimate the performance - there was a set of pictures on here a couple of days back of a chap's car who must have done just
that. I think there are still bits of the car in the bushes.
Martin
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ChrisGamlin
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posted on 23/5/06 at 08:53 PM |
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Hi Mark
You've mentioned using all ali panels to save weight, but if I can make a suggestion you may want to weigh your wheels (if those 18" (?)
are the ones you're going to be using?) and see how much you'd save with smaller 13/15" rims. I suspect you'd probably save
more weight there than all the ali panels put together, and especially as its unsprung and rotating mass, it may well be the difference between
hitting your target or not.
JUD, don't worry about the track performance, very little will be overtaking you except for other high powered Caterfields, on all but the most
open circuit you'll crucify all the tintops.
cheers
Chris
[Edited on 23/5/06 by ChrisGamlin]
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Jon Ison
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posted on 23/5/06 at 08:54 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by JUD Yet to take it on a track to see if I get passed by everything else, so I may want a Hayabusa if that
happens!
Martin
Dont worry, you wont..............
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mark chandler
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posted on 23/5/06 at 09:45 PM |
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Hi,
The wheels in the picture are just for pushing around on, they are on Ebay now. I have a set of 13" minilights which are going on (much lighter
although the rear brakes are now an issue).
Cheers Mark
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G.Man
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posted on 23/5/06 at 10:07 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by donut
They have a new chassis that looks more than up to the job..
I have never heard anyone complain about their chassis flexing or not being up to the job regardless of chassis make and/or bike engine used. If they
can take a V8, Honda S2000 and powerful Zetecs then a 200bhp bike engine should be no problem i would have thought.
[Edited on 23/5/06 by donut]
Never said MK chassis isnt upto the job, but round tube is stronger and lighter for a given wall thickness/diameter...
Its just sound engineering
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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JoelP
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posted on 23/5/06 at 10:21 PM |
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having a bike engine is all the more reason to use round tubes - the weight saving is even more important than usual. Round tube is about 25% lighter
than square (pi/4). Combining that with 19mm and 13mm tubing can save a lot of weight.
Stuff the busa, if you want a cheap fast build just stick an r1 in and keep your eye on the weight. Think minimalistic. Foam instead of seats etc. It
all adds up. I hope to be sub 400kgs with full enclosed bodywork.
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zxrlocost
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posted on 23/5/06 at 10:36 PM |
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my r1 indy wet weight was 468kg
considering Ive gone for looks aswell Im well happy
that gives about
341 bhp per ton which is plenty enough and you deff cant find the cars limits only yours
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