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Author: Subject: How do I make this SVA proof?
nludkin

posted on 13/1/07 at 05:14 PM Reply With Quote
How do I make this SVA proof?

I am now doing all the final tidying in readiness for SVA. The drivetrain is sorted, the wiring is finished and now I have to do the final fitting of the bodywork.

When I posted pictures a few weeks back I was told that I need to pull the side panels in a little at the bottom to make it safe for the SVA. However, regardless of if I pull the side panels in at the bottom, I still have sharp bits on show. How do I get around this? Am I right in assuming that this nosecone is about 21/2 cm too narrow?
Please excuse the quality of the piccies, taken in bad lighting

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Any suggestions much appreciated. I will also be contemplating solutions over a nice few beers tonight... Mmmm beer...

[Edited on 13/1/07 by nludkin]

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esn163

posted on 13/1/07 at 05:27 PM Reply With Quote
Hi

similar thread here with some solutions

HTH

Ed

[Edited on 13/1/07 by esn163]





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flak monkey

posted on 13/1/07 at 06:11 PM Reply With Quote
The nose should sit flush with the bottom of the chassis rails, or at least mine does. I have riveted my side panels to the bottom of the chassis at the front and pulled them in as Mark has done in the other thread.

David





Sera

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RazMan

posted on 13/1/07 at 11:53 PM Reply With Quote
Apparently if you move your indicators further forward and out, they effectively become the front of the 'bodywork' and anything behind them will not be tested for sharp edges by Mr SVA.

It might help as a quick fix





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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nludkin

posted on 14/1/07 at 07:44 PM Reply With Quote
I have managed to carefully dremel off some of the "depth" from the fiberglass, which has made it sit a little more flush. However, the nosecone definately doesn't cover the bottom chassis rail when fitted. A little investigation later and I see that the nosecone on W7DE's are a little too narrow and not quite deep enough? It seems the dubai cars had the same setup ( http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=33539). Would shrinkage due to fiberglass curing account for this much of a gap?

I think that I will cut the side panels diagonally at the bottom to move the "sharp bits" to behind the front of the bottom wishbone. If that makes any sense?
The indicators are already nicely forwards so hopefully none of these sharp edges will get tested anyway. *fingers crossed*

Cheers for the suggestions.

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