I've got a Sierra rear LSD axle still with the beam etc.

I managed to get one of the trailing arms and the driveshaft unbolted from the diff, but the other side is just impossible.


I've broken about 6 Torx bits trying to do it (a couple of cheapies and a few Halfords Professional) and unfortunately I don't see any way of making it easier!

I'm bracing the wheel hub from turning using a massive breaker bar against the floor, and am using a Torx bit on a 1/2" socket/bar. The Torx bit shears in half where the splines are.

I've got an Aldi airgun, but that isn't taking it either (not powerful enough).


They don't look very rusty, and they've been doused with penetrating oil for weeks.


Any clever ideas? I'm probably just doing something completely wrong..

Notoriously difficult to get off, cut them off with a slitting disc and replacement socket head bolts I'm afraid. By far the quickets way.

[Edited on 18/10/11 by liam.mccaffrey]

As above or as an alternative, take the diff back plate off and remove the wire clip that retains the end of the shaft, the whole thing will then slide out just like a push in shaft.

I had the same problem, cold chisel and hammer did the trick, once they loosened slightly they were ok to get out using my fingers. The local ford dealers keep a stock of the spreader washers and bolts so no problems replacing them. You'll just keep on snapping torx bits if you keep using them. I got through loads before I submitted to the hammer method.

Mine were a swine, ended up applying heat to the head which got them in the end, a couple of twisted halfords torx heads later.... You also need to shock them with a well placed hammer blow

spray them with some penataiting oil and leave it to soak in (i.e. put the kettle on and forget about them for a wee while)

make sure you get the heads as clean as you can to get the best fit for the torx bits (I found the halfords pro ones best, and the warranty helps too )

but if they still won't go you'll need to chisel them loose, use a cold chisel and hit them off the side so that they unscrew (make sure your going the right way to loosen them!)

it should move a bit after the first couple of hits, then just keep working them round till the loosen off


(was about the sketch it, but google found me a pic that'll do )

replace them with normal allen key head bolts - they are easier to get off next time (M8x50 grade 12.9 from memory)

[Edited on 18/10/2011 by mcerd1]

That looks like a wood chisel!

If you can, put the spline bit in a T bar socket thingy and apply a good turning force. Once you've
given it a bit of welly tap the end of the socket holder sharply with an FBH (fkin big 'amma). The
torque and shock together normally works.
Same tecnique works on seriously toght wheel nuts.

quote:

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Originally posted by MikeRJ
That looks like a wood chisel!

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It's still easier to cut the heads off and get the stubs out with Mole grips, there's plenty to get hold of then replace them with Allen bolts.

I really agree unless you need to keep the torx bolts, it literally turns into a couple of minutes job with a slitting disc and you're guaranteed not to have the problem again.

I even have some spare bolts as I'm not using sierra inners, let me know if anyone wants them.

quote:

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Originally posted by Peteff
It's still easier to cut the heads off and get the stubs out with Mole grips, there's plenty to get hold of then replace them with Allen bolts.

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couple of heavy smack's with the hammer first but make sure you can still get the torx in.

regards

Agriv8

Mine must be welded in since chiselling the bolt head has just deformed it but it's still not budging!

Will try heat + axial impact whilst applying some force next.

After that I'm just cutting them off (it doesn't look like the easiest thing to cut precisely..)

I really would suggest just cutting the heads off. You only need to get most of the bolt head if you're not sure about cutting so close to the flanges. Although you can mangle the washer and not have to worry, so that gives you a margin for error. Once the heads are off the threaded sections will just unscrew by hand.

I use an impact gun now, works every time. I did cut the heads off and replace the bolts with allen socket heads, but i found the allen head one keep coming undone. The Ford ones dont

Try cutting a slot in them then weld a piece of flat bar into the slot and try turning the bar the heat from welding them should be enough to loosen them off.

Hi
I am new here looking to solve this problem......

I busted several T45 bits using 1/2" drive wrench, an impact screwdriver,
an air impact driver (just stripped out bolt heads) and only removed 1 bolt.

Cut the rest of the busted ones of with an air cut of tool.

I noted that someone on a ford fan site said that after cutting the heads of the bolts are only finger tight,
Yes they are only finger tight.
EVEN on my 10 years in the rain badly stored rear sub-frame.

So I reasoned that the head must be stuck with friction from the rust etc.

I used a drift of mild steel bar (1" x 3/16" by about a foot long) 20oz hammer, a splash of WD40 wire brush the t45 hole clean,

followed by a swift (hard) clout on 3 sides of the torx head bolt a couple of times, another splash of WD40,

and I just easily removed a dozen bolts with my last and nearly terminal t45 bit and a 1/2" drive adapter.

The object is to dislodge the bolt head from the rust not to turn it. after hours of grief I can't get over how easy this made it.

now for the last few on the other shaft.


Chris