I've recently got hold of a nearly finished pheonix with a Honda pan euro engine in it. I ve now got to the stage where it runs but its horribly
lean... Ive spent several days trawling the net looking for clues and it looks like I need to rejet the carbs to compensate for the airbox
removal....I sort of get the idea others have been down this road before and would like to know if there is any advice out there?
Or should I replace the engine with something more commonplace......and probably more powerful cos my intention is to sprint it and I'm
concerned that it wont be quick enough..
Any advice gratefully received..
thanks
Rather than re-jetting you might well be able to just shim the jets. They're quite easy to take apart. If you take the needle out of the piston
and put a washer underneath it to raise it, it will richen the mixture nicely.
I had to do this on my offside bank but not my nearside. I kept half the standard airbox and cut-it down with a custom made carbon fibre plenum into a
K+N cone filter.
When STM had a Locost with a ST1100 in it they ran it with Weber uprights and round Donnington it wasn't too far off a blade powered version. The
disadvantage of the ST1100 is weight, the advantage is torque.
The 8krpm red-line is crazily conservative. STM used to swap the standard ECU for another from the Honda range. I can't remember which though
which is a shame cos it's a straight swap (ie ST one unplugs, new on plugs-in, loads of power).
is it blue? I only ask as if so and it was from Peterborogh way, it was the one I wanted to buy,....
hey ho, I now have a yellow Fury with a 2.0 zetec in it.
ta
quote:
Originally posted by HowardB
is it blue? I only ask as if so and it was from Peterborogh way, it was the one I wanted to buy,....
hey ho, I now have a yellow Fury with a 2.0 zetec in it.
ta
Guys it is is the blue one from peterborough...almost finished now apart from this engine problem. Most stuff was well done and i'm itching to
get it on a track.....
The air filter I had custom made so I can reduce the size of the hole in the bonnet and its a really neat job.
However till I can get it rich enough to stop making the headers glow cherry red and stop all the popping and banging I'm going nowhere.
To think I nearly bought a zetec engined ginetta G27...that would have been so easy!!
I think I'll try the washer trick this week end see if it helps...
cheers
itching - you need to see a quack,
:-)
look forward to seeing it on the road / track
Just spotted where you are- shame you didn't take it via TTS at Silverstone when you bought it
I was on the road when I went there. Did a RR session, borrowed their wideband sensor for a few hours to see what it was like on the hoof and they
shimmed the washers.
All for near a hundred (might have been a little more). I was expecting worse so can just remember being shocked at how cheap it was.
Thanks for the info gents.....I've now got it running reasonably well ( hasn't been out on the road yet..just my drive)
Basically I've changed the main jets from the 125 that were in it to 160 following clues gleaned from the internet, I also eventually managed to
find some washers that were small enough to fit the needles and have used 2 per needle. result - it revs , drives and has pretty much stopped spitting
fire!
I was pleasantly surprised how the clutch feels but it is very prone to spinning the rears..perhaps needs sticky tyres?
Now I just need to get the brakes bled so it actually stops!
One other question.....it has a header tank fitted but its below the level of the top hose (which has a rad cap with overflow pipe fitted in it) and
its connected into the bottom hose, there is an overlow pipe from the cap on this header tank to an expansion bottle but this has a diagphram valve on
it and no pipe into the bottle..
I dont believe this is going to work..so I'm thinking of ditching the header tank and routing the overflow pipe off the top hose cap into a
normal expansion bottle with a pipe into the bottom so the engine can breathe its coolant and suck back when it cools.....thoughts??