leemarkadams
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 06:09 AM |
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Still not bloody working!
Hello all, well have got a replacement relay as in the post here:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=118624
Connected it all up, with a working fuel pump too, and nothing. When you turn the ignition key to position 2 the fuel pump does not even prime like
it used to!
So, any ideas as to what to try next, as have done all the tests in the workshop manual and they all passed ok (except the relay).
The only things I can think of are the side stand switch (but am getting a negative signal on the light blue wire at the relay), as the neutral switch
is working. So what else can I sodding well do (before I think of ripping the whole car apart  :mad ............If it is the side stand switch
how do I ensure it is bypassed correctly?
As I said before it was working really well on the track day before it just coughed and spluttered then died. Initial tests showed the fule pump was
not working at that time, further tests have shown the relay was gone too.
Anyway, any help greatly appreciated as I do not want to call in a professional if I can help it!
Thanks
Lee
[Edited on 11/8/09 by leemarkadams]
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rgrs
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 06:30 AM |
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Do you have a test meter ?
Roger
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leemarkadams
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 06:31 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rgrs
Do you have a test meter ?
Roger
Hello, yes I do have a test meter, in fact just been out in the garage now and am not getting a signal at all on the blue/yellow wire to the relay
(coming from the side stand) so wonder if that is an issue?
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rgrs
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 06:38 AM |
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Does your loom contain the cycle lock option ?
and whats the voltage on the 1st wire red/black left connector with the ignition on
Roger
[Edited on 11/8/09 by rgrs]
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leemarkadams
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 06:52 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rgrs
Does your loom contain the cycle lock option ?
and whats the voltage on the 1st wire red/black left connector with the ignition on
Roger
[Edited on 11/8/09 by rgrs]
Just tested the wire and it is getting 13.46 volts. Am also getting power to the coils red/black also.
As for cyclelock, no idea, as the car was buult when I bought it and was running fine until the track day.
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rgrs
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 07:04 AM |
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check if you have a neg on the black/yellow 4th from left.
also have you tried the fuel pump off the car
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leemarkadams
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 07:16 AM |
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I have a negative on the black/yellow you mention and the fueln pump works fine if you run wires direct to it.
Bloody car!
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 07:19 AM |
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Lee
Take the fuel pump fuse out and make shaw you have 12v on the terminals, then try putting a new fuse in, (or at least one you know works )
tony
[Edited on 11/8/09 by mad-butcher]
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Flamez
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 07:20 AM |
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Although my car is a kawasaki I wired the two wires in the connector of the side stand directly together and it works fine
my build mac1motorsports
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adithorp
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 07:23 AM |
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It's unlikely to be the clutch, side-stand or neutral switches as they all stop the starter operating. From what I remember of your earlier
posts it does turn over?
Does your car have the Cyclelock? Most BEC are built with looms that don't have it.
adrian
[Edited on 11/8/09 by adithorp]
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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leemarkadams
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 07:27 AM |
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Thanks for the help so far, but still no joy!
Not getting the fuel pump priming via the relay, or the engine sparking! It will turn over but will not fire and no spark seen with a plug out and
grounded......
Lee
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rgrs
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 07:37 AM |
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Try wiring the fuel pump direct to a 12v supply, the pump should then run until pressure is reached and then shut down. Once its done this try
starting the engine, at least this will show if its a supply problem to the pump only. Check to see if there is a spark.
Must type faster
Roger
[Edited on 11/8/09 by rgrs]
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rgrs
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 07:55 AM |
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Seems it could be related to your ecu, disconect the ecu and check for corrosion. whilst its still disconected with the ignition on apply a neg to
the blue/red on the ecu connector. The fuel pump should run. If it does then the fault is either the ecu or if fitted the cycle lock system. This
is an anti theft device and a bit of a pain.
Where abouts are you ?
Roger
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:04 AM |
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Sorry just been out to check and I should have said ignition fuse
tony
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adithorp
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:06 AM |
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Without knowing if the Cyclelock is fitted or not it's not really posible to diagnose the problem.
If it is fitted it could well be that. If not fitted then you're working from the wrong wiring diagram.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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mad4x4
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 11:51 AM |
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Ok not knowing much about bike electrics I would throw this in to the equation
If the Fuel Pump is not running and there is no spark then that would be typical 2 point imobilisation of a thatcham Alarm system (cyclock??).
So what you will need to do is trace the wire back from the fuel pump back to find the imobilser (which will be seperate from the ECU well possibly)
and try and figure out why it is energised.
Usually a car will have 4 Door switches and and a movement detector (inside) with possibly a tremble switch as well as crank switch etc.
On a Bike not so sure. there must be a tremble switch to stop someone wheeling the bike away. as well as a side stand switch and a crank switch - One
mate had a pressure switch under the seat so the bike would only start if he was sitting on it.
It could be that the track day has caused the tremble switch or one of the other switches to fail so the bike thinks the alarm is constantly
enabled.
Do you know what bike the LOOM came from you may be able to get the OEM diagram,
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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leemarkadams
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 03:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rgrs
Seems it could be related to your ecu, disconect the ecu and check for corrosion. whilst its still disconected with the ignition on apply a neg to
the blue/red on the ecu connector. The fuel pump should run. If it does then the fault is either the ecu or if fitted the cycle lock system. This
is an anti theft device and a bit of a pain.
Where abouts are you ?
Roger
Tried this and not a sausage!! Whether a positive or a negative is applied to the wire you mention.........
Really starting to get despondant now and the wife is not too impressed as she did not want me to get the car!! Still, could always be worse I
suppose!
Any more ideas before I rip out all the wiring and start again, as do not really want to do this as it was working fine before!
Lee
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leemarkadams
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 03:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Without knowing if the Cyclelock is fitted or not it's not really posible to diagnose the problem.
If it is fitted it could well be that. If not fitted then you're working from the wrong wiring diagram.
adrian
How do I tell if it has cyclelock fitted? It was working fine before.....
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adithorp
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 05:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by leemarkadams
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Without knowing if the Cyclelock is fitted or not it's not really posible to diagnose the problem.
If it is fitted it could well be that. If not fitted then you're working from the wrong wiring diagram.
adrian
How do I tell if it has cyclelock fitted? It was working fine before.....
Either...
Ask the guy who built it. While your at it ask if there's an inertia switch somewhere (that'd cause your problem) or a security switch
hidden away that might have been knocked off.
Or...
Check the wiring against the diagram in your last thread and see if you can trace wires going to the cyclelock.
I'm more familiar with the injection engines but I think...
Without the lock you'll have main ignition wires red switched to brown/blue and secondary ignition of blue/yellow to blue/black. The secondary
might be perminently connected in the loom, but if disconnected/broken would cause your problem. If the ignition feeds to something else then
you've probably got a Cyclelock.
Tracing back the existing loom has to be simpler than making a new one.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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leemarkadams
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| posted on 12/8/09 at 10:37 AM |
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Just had a motorbike mobile mechanic round (friend of a friend hence lo-cost!) and he reckons it could be the ICU if everything else has been checked,
so I guess that is the next thing!
Ah well, a call to Yorkshire engines it is....
Lee
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 12/8/09 at 01:45 PM |
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were abouts are you maybe someone handy could loan you theirs to try
tony
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leemarkadams
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| posted on 12/8/09 at 03:28 PM |
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I am near Portsmouth.........
Thanks
Lee
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leemarkadams
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| posted on 13/8/09 at 07:16 AM |
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Well, bit the bullet and ordered an ICU from Malc at Yorkshire Engines, so will give it a try when that arrives.
If that does not work then I guess it will be strip all the old wiring out and start again, as was planning on doing that over winter anyway as well
as put in FIA cut off, savage switches etc...
Lee
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RickRick
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| posted on 13/8/09 at 08:03 AM |
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do you have a lean angle switch on a 99 r1? if so having this facing the wrong way, atleast on my 05 presents the same problem, turning over, no
fuel pump or power to injectors
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leemarkadams
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| posted on 13/8/09 at 08:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RickRick
do you have a lean angle switch on a 99 r1? if so having this facing the wrong way, atleast on my 05 presents the same problem, turning over, no
fuel pump or power to injectors
Have not seen one on mine, as did not build it but looked at everything else and not seen it at any stage. I am sure mine does not have 1...
I will get it working again!
Lee
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