chesney321
|
| posted on 13/9/11 at 07:57 PM |
|
|
fried my rectifier
put my rectifier in the wrong place and it over heated and fried itself.have now moved it to infront of the engine to try and keep it cool.i have
heard that you can add a little fan for extra security.what fan would i use. any help appreciated.ps engine is a 94 year 893 cc fireblade
Is this a TRADE ADVERTISEMENT?? Click HERE to report it!
|
|
|
|
|
doddy
|
| posted on 13/9/11 at 08:14 PM |
|
|
use a small 12volt compter fan
like this 12 VOLT UNIVERSAL COMPUTER TEMPERATURE COOLING FAN NEW | eBay
Passion Automotive - 12 VOLT UNIVERSAL COMPUTER TEMPERATURE COOLING FAN NEW
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/4x4wheels
|
|
|
mark chandler
|
| posted on 13/9/11 at 08:21 PM |
|
|
Just get one from another bike with cooling fins, I have one on my road bike, this came from a firestorm and the one on my BEC is from a ducati of all
things, renowned for rubbish electrics. Both were under £10 from Ebay.
They pretty all have three yellow wires from the alternator that you connect in any order, then a red and black (live and earth).
Just make sure its a 12v one.
This one will do, 45 minutes to go HONDA CD200T 12V RECTIFIER / CD 200 BENLY / CM RECTIFIER | eBay 
The connectors are rubbish anyway, well known weak spot so a decent soldered joint is better.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 13/9/11 by mark chandler]
|
|
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 13/9/11 at 08:56 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Just get one from another bike with cooling fins, I have one on my road bike, this came from a firestorm and the one on my BEC is from a ducati of all
things, renowned for rubbish electrics. Both were under £10 from Ebay.
They pretty all have three yellow wires from the alternator that you connect in any order, then a red and black (live and earth).
Just make sure its a 12v one.
This one will do, 45 minutes to go HONDA CD200T 12V RECTIFIER / CD 200 BENLY / CM RECTIFIER | eBay
It definitely will not do. That rectifer/regulator is probably rated for 5-10 amps max. The Fireblade has a 3 phase alternator and the regulator
will be rated for maybe 30Amps or more.
Note that motorcycle regulators are, almost without exception, shunt regulators, i.e. to reduce the output from the alternator the regulator shorts it
output, dumping heat into the stator windings of the alternator and into the regulator itself. The older design regulators use SCRs to shunt the
stator output, but they tend to have quite a high voltage drop so dissipate a lot of power (P=V*V*I). Modern regulators use MOSFETs which are still
used to shunt the stator coils, but have a lower voltage drop and run much cooler. Lots of bikers have replaced their standard SCR based regulators
with these newer type.
The UNIVERSAL MOTORCYCLE REGULATOR & UPGRADE KIT MOSFET | eBay or the Shindengen FH014AA is probably the most popular,
but requires special connectors and you can buy as a complete kit though it's not cheap. The FH016 is a better bet as it has wire tails rather
than connectors built into the body.
Shindengen make the regulator/rectifiers for the majority of bike manufacturers, any of their models with FH at the start of the code are MOSFET
based. They also make the older SCR based ones which start with SH.
[Edited on 13/9/11 by MikeRJ]
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 13/9/11 at 10:16 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Just get one from another bike with cooling fins, I have one on my road bike, this came from a firestorm and the one on my BEC is from a ducati of all
things, renowned for rubbish electrics. Both were under £10 from Ebay.
Ducati use the same one as Honda 
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
fesycresy
|
| posted on 14/9/11 at 07:18 AM |
|
|
Something in the back of my mind remembers a CB 250 rectifier was a popular modification ?
Try a pm to the forum TV celebrity - Andy Bates, he'll know.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 14/9/11 at 07:34 AM |
|
|
Just stole this by RGB regular Tim Hovered on another forum...
"...it's easy to fix. Just get a regulator/rectifier from a later fireblade such as a CBR1000RR, they're usually around on EBay. The
later ones are much chunkier and more robust. You'll have to swap the connectors around to fit it but it's no big deal..."
I think thats the common mod and has better cooling fins. Do you have it bolted to a decent heat-sink (big plate)?
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 14/9/11 at 07:52 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
"...it's easy to fix. Just get a regulator/rectifier from a later fireblade such as a CBR1000RR, they're usually around on EBay. The
later ones are much chunkier and more robust. You'll have to swap the connectors around to fit it but it's no big deal..."
I think thats the common mod and has better cooling fins. Do you have it bolted to a decent heat-sink (big plate)?
After about '06 the Fireblade went over to MOSFET reg/rec which are much more efficient and cooler running. A lot of Triumph owners do the swap
and you will find instructions for it on a few websites now.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
40inches
|
| posted on 14/9/11 at 08:15 AM |
|
|
I went for the Bling factor, about a tenner from PC World.
Plastic ones are about half that. I would suggest you steer clear of the cheap bushed fans and go for a ball bearing one.
 
Bulkhead wiring
|
|
|
mad-butcher
|
| posted on 14/9/11 at 09:32 AM |
|
|
CB250/400 N Superdream, at one time were cheap on ebay but now people have caught on to what people use them to replace the price has gone through the
roof, you want a genuine one NOT a replacement.
tony
|
|
|
.jpg){kind=avatar}
