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Author: Subject: Hayabusa power loss.
bobinspain

posted on 6/12/12 at 04:30 PM Reply With Quote
Hayabusa power loss.

Usual numpty-level question:

On the way back from a 30 mile run out, I went to overtake and pressed the accelerator and the normally smooth power delivery was staccato and lumpy. (6,500rpm). Got to 7,000 rpm and the rough running continued, so eased off. All fine at 6k rpm, but when I tried dropping a gear and gunning it, I got the same problem.
Engine has done 780 miles from new. Gen2 1340cc.
Where do I start looking please?
Oil pressure and temperature are normal and engine appears to idle smoothly.

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nick205

posted on 6/12/12 at 04:56 PM Reply With Quote
fuel starvation at higher revs?

Check lines and filters perhaps.






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sdh2903

posted on 6/12/12 at 05:02 PM Reply With Quote
Coil and plug leads?

Had this on my R1 engine just before winter hibernation, was fine at low revs but the extra vibrations at high revs was slightly dislodging a plug lead causing it to run rough. Quick nip with the pliers sorted it.

Not sure if the busa is similar or if its coil on plug?






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rodgling

posted on 6/12/12 at 05:02 PM Reply With Quote
I had similar problems at 2-3k rpm at WOT with my M3 engine - turned out to be VANOS (variable valve timing) failure, easily fixed in my case with a couple of new O-rings. No idea if your engine has variable valve timing though? Probably not common on bike engines?
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Nickp

posted on 6/12/12 at 05:37 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
fuel starvation at higher revs?

Check lines and filters perhaps.


+1 first place to look for me too including pump.

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richard thomas

posted on 6/12/12 at 05:45 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Nickp
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
fuel starvation at higher revs?

Check lines and filters perhaps.


+1 first place to look for me too including pump.


+2....airlock in the fuel rail?

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franky

posted on 6/12/12 at 05:53 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bobinspain
Usual numpty-level question:

On the way back from a 30 mile run out, I went to overtake and pressed the accelerator and the normally smooth power delivery was staccato and lumpy. (6,500rpm). Got to 7,000 rpm and the rough running continued, so eased off. All fine at 6k rpm, but when I tried dropping a gear and gunning it, I got the same problem.
Engine has done 780 miles from new. Gen2 1340cc.
Where do I start looking please?
Oil pressure and temperature are normal and engine appears to idle smoothly.


Are you sure the engines done 780miles from new? was it in a damaged bike that ran when on its side?

Ignoring the doom questions above I'd guess at a fuel issue

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bobinspain

posted on 6/12/12 at 07:27 PM Reply With Quote
Are you sure the engines done 780miles from new? was it in a damaged bike that ran when on its side?

Ignoring the doom questions above I'd guess at a fuel issue


Franky. Answer to question 1. I have mileage confirmed by Mal Curnin. Second query------don't know.
The car is an MK factory build.
I'll check out the fuel issue.

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matt_gsxr

posted on 6/12/12 at 07:31 PM Reply With Quote
Any warning codes? Crank sensor problems can cause your symptoms, but would normally throw a warning code.
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bobinspain

posted on 6/12/12 at 07:47 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by matt_gsxr
Any warning codes? Crank sensor problems can cause your symptoms, but would normally throw a warning code.


No Matt. No codes.

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feckn7

posted on 6/12/12 at 08:04 PM Reply With Quote
I had similar issues in my daughters car (not bike engined) where motor would start run drive ok but hesitate etc under load.
Checked fuel pressure, replaced injectors, distributor cap, plug leads (as all were looking fairly tired) no luck.
Turned out spark plugs were breaking down under load - new set of plugs - all fixed.

David

[Edited on 6/12/12 by feckn7]

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bobinspain

posted on 6/12/12 at 08:20 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by feckn7
I had similar issues in my daughters car (not bike engined) where motor would start run drive ok but hesitate etc under load.
Checked fuel pressure, replaced injectors, distributor cap, plug leads (as all were looking fairly tired) no luck.
Turned out spark plugs were breaking down under load - new set of plugs - all fixed.

David

[Edited on 6/12/12 by feckn7]


Thanks for the input David.

I should have made it clear to avoid wasting everyones' time:

Car is a year old, and factory built to a very high spec'.
Cost £15,000.(plus £800 shipping, plus £1,200 matriculation for road use in Spain). No guarantee, because shipping the car back to UK for remedial work would cost £800 each way. (beginning to think that might've been a good idea).
Engine supplied for build was confirmed as a 68 miler. (Now done 780 miles).

Regards, Bob.

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Andy B

posted on 6/12/12 at 09:27 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Bob
the bike running on its side after accident shouldnt figure as the bank angle sensor will cut them dead when leant at an angle with no cornering force to centralise the pedulum, so I dont think thats it. As others have said I would check fuel pressure first - does it employ an external fuel pressure regulator if so can you plumb in a pressure guage to check the line pressure. Also when ignition is on are you getting any unusual noises from the pump.
Most faults with the ignition/fuel system will manifest themselves with a fault code so I would definately check the fuelling first - oh and check the main engine earth hasnt come loose.
Feel frre to call me if the problem persists
Best regards
Andy

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lucy

posted on 6/12/12 at 11:05 PM Reply With Quote
Had a similar problem on my hayabusa engine and changed the fuel pump and that solved it. Good luck.
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bobinspain

posted on 7/12/12 at 09:00 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Andy B
Hi Bob
the bike running on its side after accident shouldnt figure as the bank angle sensor will cut them dead when leant at an angle with no cornering force to centralise the pedulum, so I dont think thats it. As others have said I would check fuel pressure first - does it employ an external fuel pressure regulator if so can you plumb in a pressure guage to check the line pressure. Also when ignition is on are you getting any unusual noises from the pump.
Most faults with the ignition/fuel system will manifest themselves with a fault code so I would definately check the fuelling first - oh and check the main engine earth hasnt come loose.
Feel frre to call me if the problem persists
Best regards
Andy



u2u (of Gettysburg Address proportions) sent Andy.

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Andy B

posted on 7/12/12 at 09:41 AM Reply With Quote
Bob
u2u replied to
give me a bell on 01449 736633 if you want to discuss - I might be able to work through a few things remotely with you
regards
Andy

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ptrxly

posted on 7/12/12 at 12:03 PM Reply With Quote
I had a similar issue with my Busa powered Seven a couple of years ago. The high ethanol content in the Sunoco gas that I started to use had dissolved the anti-slosh foam baffles in the fuel tank and it had plugged up the injectors. A cleaning of the injectors and flushing the tank after removing the foam cured the problem and no issues since.
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bobinspain

posted on 7/12/12 at 12:04 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Andy B
Bob
u2u replied to
give me a bell on 01449 736633 if you want to discuss - I might be able to work through a few things remotely with you
regards
Andy


Andy,
You really aren't aware of my degree of ineptitude. I have the same amount of faith in my ability, as I have ability. Both have yet to register on any scale known to man.
I replied via u2u before reading your latest here.
Will emailed me today, he's up to his eyeballs in work, prepping his own machinery for shipping out to Africa.
I'm snookered!
"Cri de coeur" wasn't short of the mark !

Regards, Bob.

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bobinspain

posted on 8/12/12 at 02:04 PM Reply With Quote
For those who are interested and particularly for those who kindly offered advice:-

Car battery showed 12.84v at 'rest.'
Momentary drop to 12v on start-up.
Idling, 13.8v
At a steady 4,500 rpm, 14.9v.

When removing the battery cover/holder, it was apparent on the tubular piece with 2 securing-screws that nip the HT lead, the screws were 'hand-tight' only. Additionally, the collar which attaches to one of the battery terminals was far from tight.
All secured, I went out for a quick run. (In the car !!!!)

In 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears, I took it as far as 8k rpm, smooth as you like.
I'll give the car a more thorough shakedown in 5th and 6th manana. (It's 17c here right now, but blowing a hooley).

Thanks troops.

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richard thomas

posted on 9/12/12 at 10:59 AM Reply With Quote
Well done Bob, glad it was a simple fix for you....but a bit worrying I know at the time?
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bobinspain

posted on 16/12/12 at 01:27 PM Reply With Quote
Gout-induced delay (not recommended!) in road testing.

Just been out (19c and sunny).

Smooth as you like in all gears (up to 8k rpm anyway).

Iffy HT connection.

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bobinspain

posted on 6/1/13 at 01:50 PM Reply With Quote
My last posting was somewhat optimistic.

There's good news and bad news. First the bad: Just done a 30-miler and was able to give it a good thrash through all gears on a near empty autopista. 1st to 4th, wound it up to 9k rpm and all normal. In fifth and 6th, above 7.5/8k rpm it stutters and and loses power, like it's hit a wall. I progressively floor the throttle in 5th and 6th and it pulls like a train until 'the wall.' If you put your tongue in the roof of your mouth and make the rrrrrrrrrr sound, that's what the engine feels/sounds like and no increase in power delivery. I naturally lifted off at that and re-tried------same result.
Any ideas based on the above?

The good news is that it was 'shirt-sleeves' weather at 20c and sunny. As they say, "you can't have everything." (where would you put it?)

Regards, Bob.

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chicade

posted on 6/1/13 at 02:47 PM Reply With Quote
Sounds like miss fire bob I would try taking the plugs out and looking for any difference in colour ect may possibly be a coil pack or a plug breaking down under load also do you have a power commander fitted? May be worth disconnecting this and trying it as standard to rule it out, if you got no fault codes it's bound to be something daft like previously said check all earths and battery leads and a good check round all the multi plug connections

[Edited on 6/1/13 by chicade]

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chicade

posted on 6/1/13 at 03:33 PM Reply With Quote
Where in Spain are you bob my parents live in costa del sol and my dads a keen and very able mechanic and virtually built my Mk from scratch converting it from car engine to r1 if your not too far away am sure he would help
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bobinspain

posted on 6/1/13 at 04:22 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by chicade
Where in Spain are you bob my parents live in costa del sol and my dads a keen and very able mechanic and virtually built my Mk from scratch converting it from car engine to r1 if your not too far away am sure he would help



I'm an hour north of Valencia (unfortunately).
My usual mechanic/spark is utterly snowed with prepping his own vehicles to be shipped to Nigeria.

I do have a Power Commander 5 fitted. I'll re-check all contacts. It does indeed feel for all the world like a simple misfire.

I recall moons ago, (30 yrs) I had a Rover 3.5 and the spark was arcing across the inside of the distributor cap due to carbon deposits. Similar effect. Goes like a good-un, then rrrrrrrrrrr, power loss at the same revs each time.

It's got to be something simple.

[Edited on 6/1/13 by bobinspain]

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