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Author: Subject: Anderson Connector?
johnny chimpo

posted on 11/5/13 at 06:38 PM Reply With Quote
Anderson Connector?

Hi all, I'm looking for a quick and easy way to connect up my battery on my MNR for charging without having to remove the bonnet. What I was thinking about was to run A lead from the battery terminals into an Anderson connector under the dash that could be easily accessible.

Are Anderson connectors suitable for this purpose and if so what rating/size of connector would I need to fit?

Also anyone able to sugget the best place to buy from?

Cheers all....

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AndyW

posted on 11/5/13 at 06:57 PM Reply With Quote
i used to use Anderson connectors on electric fork lift trucks and they were rated by colour. Some were rated for very high voltage and very high amps so get the right one and they will be fine for the car. If you look at recovery vans they usually have on behind the grill or bumper
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RickRick

posted on 11/5/13 at 08:20 PM Reply With Quote
I've done this, but using rc car connectors, there good for easy 30 amps, put the female side on leads off the battery, and mount under the dash, and a male end on the optimate, just plug it in every time i get in

Deans Connectors T Plugs 5 Pairs | eBay

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T66

posted on 11/5/13 at 08:29 PM Reply With Quote
Ive seen cars at Harewood with flush mounted Anderson plugs. Use a small battery once running and a trolley battery to start the car.











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Mr C

posted on 11/5/13 at 10:13 PM Reply With Quote
Its quite a common addition within the off road scene old land rovers etc. I've put an anderson connector on my v-storm and jump pack, as the battery is difficult to get at for jump leads. I used 175amp connectors and 25mm terminals. I bought a pair of hydraulic crimpers to do the terminals. I bought jump leads from machine mart and used the cable. I kept a pair of crocodiles and put and anderson plug on them so I could uplug them into the jump pack and use "normally" if required. Loads on Ebay just make sure you get your shopping list sorted before you order, handles, rubber boots etc are usually ordered separately. Make sure also you get the right size connectors for the cable you are using. It wasn't locost at the end of the day but its so convenient espcially when my gel battery fooked up.





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johnny chimpo

posted on 11/5/13 at 10:34 PM Reply With Quote
Can you recommend what amp rating connector and what size of cable I should use for my r1 engined MNR?
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Matt @ TDF

posted on 11/5/13 at 10:40 PM Reply With Quote
We fit jump points/pit points via Andersons as standard on all our looms for the race cars we deal with.

You can quite happily get away with the smaller "grey" 120 type for basic power and starting duties and these can be flush fit or panel fit via the mountings on the connector. The larger Red 350 type is quite useful for quick jump starts etc. especially on larger engines or high current draw applications (e.g. when you have paddleshift compressors, electric oil pumps etc. running during starting) and you can bolt a useful handle to the red type for easy connect/disconnect.

Cheapest place for single orders is probably RS:

Grey 120 Type: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/heavy-duty-power-connectors/6120065/

Red 350 Type: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/heavy-duty-power-connectors/6120144/

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omega 24 v6

posted on 11/5/13 at 11:43 PM Reply With Quote
Not trying to wee anyone off , given some of the latest posts etc.
For a better deal on these connectors try here
connectors





If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.

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Matt @ TDF

posted on 11/5/13 at 11:51 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by omega 24 v6
Not trying to wee anyone off , given some of the latest posts etc.
For a better deal on these connectors try here
connectors


That's a 175 not a 120 so bit bulky for under dash mount. Also the ones I listed above include terminals as a bagged kit, not just the bare terminal housing which makes life a bit easier

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omega 24 v6

posted on 12/5/13 at 12:09 AM Reply With Quote
We use 50 to 60 a week at work and they come with the terminals in the box. Not sure if thats just for us though. Cannot see the terminals on the site as a separate order either so would assume they come as a complete kit.
As I said not trying to contradict anyone just get the best deal for a fellow locoster.
And as we use them at work it was easier for me to use something that I was used to working with

Mines is mounted on the pass side footwell ( in the engine bay at floor level) and doubles as a jump start/batt conditioning connection. I have a mating section that has a set of crocodiles on the other end. It allows me to jump start my car OR for me to jump start someone elses car AND connect to the batt conditioner ( which also has a mating section )during winter.





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johnny chimpo

posted on 15/5/13 at 10:46 PM Reply With Quote
Would the 50amp Anderson connectors be suitable for this or would it really need to be the 120amp minimum? it will only be used for charging the standard 12v Yuasu battery in my r1 engined MNR.
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cliftyhanger

posted on 16/5/13 at 07:10 AM Reply With Quote
For charging?? you only need 10-20A, depends on what charger.....
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Matt @ TDF

posted on 16/5/13 at 11:07 PM Reply With Quote
As above, but if you are going to effort of fitting an Anderson you may as well make it possible to jump the car through it. It won't take a lot of cable or a much larger connector all things considered.

If you only want to pass 10 amps or so for charging use a two way Deutsch DT connector which will support 13 amps continuously and supports 14 AWG wire.

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britishtrident

posted on 17/5/13 at 05:57 AM Reply With Quote
If only using it for car to car charging it is easier just to use one of those cigar lighter socket to cigar lighter socket leads ---- I used my Lidl one a few times and it works surprisingly well

If you are using one of the lower rated Anderson connectors wiring it through a Mega or Maxi fuse might be a good idea.





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matt_gsxr

posted on 17/5/13 at 06:50 AM Reply With Quote
I have a CTEK charger which was recommended for my Odyssey battery.

This came with a very nice cable and plug (with waterproof cap) that are designed to be wired in permanently. The CTEK units can be left plugged in permanently and are nicely made, I would go this route again.

I have used Anderson, but only for jump starts (far too meaty for this purpose and a rather crude connector IMO).

Matt

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Bluemoon

posted on 17/5/13 at 09:10 AM Reply With Quote
^^^ Ditto.. Not needed for normal charging as OTT on the current rating.. Mine is as BT, perfect for satnav as well..
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J222jra

posted on 17/5/13 at 09:26 AM Reply With Quote
Definatly just buy a ctek charger with the quick connect lead. I just keep it connected all the time in the garage to keep the battery conditioned. It basically turns itself on when the battery gets below a certain voltage.
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