Just a thought for what it's worth - not sure if it's been done before
Dump the alternator, install a suitable old style generator, belt driven off the prop-shaft with a switched lever arm potentiometer.
Put car in neutral, reverse current flow to generator through suitable electronis mechanisms and hey presto a variable speed reverse.
Only disadvantage - a tad more weight and no charging at idle. But then a generator generally doesn't charge at idle speeds anyway.
I know this is a bit simplistic but would be interested in the reasons it won't work.
Or . . . .
. . . Use the starter motor from a suitable bike and bolt a pulley onto that, with a pulley bolted to the UJ flange, then select neutral - pull lever
- and backwards you will go.
That's the method I'm going to use on mine when/if I race it.
Only problem with that is you are carrying the weight of the alternator as well.
What about a broomstick with a shoe on the end to just punt reverse everywhere??
God I hope I pass before April!!!
Surely for all the extra designing, manufacturing (both costs and effort) it would be easier to fork out for a reverse box.
a reverse box will reduce power and slow the car down
On a theme.... alanr has brought up a point that I have thought about....
Has anyone (alanr?) run a rolling road with and without a reverse box.
I currently consume Westfield chocolate reverse boxes, an expensive practice.
I intend to fit a AB electrickery job and a centre bearing propshaft this winter if the car survives the 2008 season (only 3 events to go, touching
timber).
How much of a transmission gain (at the wheels) I get will be quite interesting - anyone know some figures??
It was AB over at Bury St Edmunds that told me a qualfe reverse can reduce power by up to 12% (well on my Blade) and as every bhp is important, for the sake of occasionally pushing the car backwards -- don't fit one
I reckon 10% would be about right!
But then I've not done your test, just going from what others have said (inc Andy).
Horrible to thought that you are losing 10 - 12% AND ADDING weight, just to reverse out of Tescos...
Steve
Quite agree -- exactly my point
[Edited on 21/8/08 by alanr]
It makes me wonder how much power is lost to spinning a drive shaft? It would seem that one of the benefits of a middie BEC would be less power loss
through a chain drive.
[Edited on 21/8/08 by kreb]
quote:
Originally posted by Ivan
Dump the alternator, install a suitable old style generator, belt driven off the prop-shaft with a switched lever arm potentiometer.
quote:
Originally posted by Ivan
Put car in neutral, reverse current flow to generator through suitable electronis mechanisms and hey presto a variable speed reverse.
Well that's what Ive seen on a R1 powered Mini -- as you say, it's got to be a lot less power loss than a prop
Well, hopefully I'll be able to give a definitive answer this winter.
I've heard the 10% loss thing, but that doesn't really sit well with my ignorant perceptions, i.e. that my car currently has 140bhp at the
rear wheel. If I've lost 10% through the chocolate box then I'm looking at at 10KW heater, I guess that's why the chocolate melts.
I'm happier with 1-2%, but then I'm deluded.
When the scrutineer asks me to go backwards, the car goes backwards. If I take the car out on road, I'll doughnut my way out of Tescos.
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
Surely for all the extra designing, manufacturing (both costs and effort) it would be easier to fork out for a reverse box.
Manufacturers of bikes, and actual power tests, of bikes have found you lose between 10 - 12% of engine power through transmission losses. That means
the primary drive, the wet clutch, the gearbox, and the final drive chain.
Although I haven't sen the internals of one of these 'boxes I would assume that 'forward' would be straight through the 'box
- with no other gears being turned. Only when in reverse would the idler (or any other gear) being turned.
So I'd be very suprised if just a single gear cluster would lose the same amount.