as above really I need a thicker head gasket for my r1 5pw engine and also a set of adjustable cam sprockets. does anyone no where I could get these
from ...... holshot racing has nothing at the moment
kind regards
Does the R1 have removable cylinder barrels or are they one piece to the casing? I added a cylinder base spacer to my ZX9, I didn't adjust cam timing.
Yec or Cometic for the head gasket.
APE for the cam wheels. I modified some stock cam wheels by slotting them on a mill when I done mine.
Maybe worth looking at an APE manual cam tensioner aswell.
thanks for the reply's Im going to slot my std cams as I cant find any for the 5pw engine in the uk. and iv found a company called Ferriday.co.uk
who can modify the original head gasket (make thicker) am I right in going 1.7mm thick overall or does it have to be thicker/thinner
kind regards
I used a 1.2mm cylinder base spacer on my engine, so my total was 1.2mm + whatever the standard head gasket is. But in essence I added 1.2mm of deck
height.
I also added 10mm 12.9 head bolts to replace the original ones that were waisted down to 8mm.
I run 15psi with a TD04-13T which gave me 100bhp over stock
1.3mm gasket from Cometic Europe. Think it cost about 60 quid
Surely spacers just reduce the squish area, would it not be better to grind out the combustion chamber or dish the Pistons?
Why modded cam wheels, is this to compensate with moving the head away from the crank upsetting the timing or are you advancing the inlet a bit?
Note 7psi on my engine, standard compression = 70-80bhp over standard on optimax without affecting power low down.
so a 1.3 cometic gasket will be ok at 7 psi. and adjust cam sprockets as moving the head higher
I too ran 7 psi on a stock zx9 with 11.5:1 compression, good fuel and a good tune is key.
Yes raising the head does reduce squish and dished pistons is the best way to do it. But spacers do work.
Bike engines are designed to run on 93 ron fuel, although you have a high compression ratio because of valve overlap its effectively less than static
and they are well designed, 7-8 psi on 97 ron fuel is fine with no changes to the engine.
Spacer will kill 'off' boost power, running a higher boost.
Really big power does of course add additional loads, not just Piston, con rods and crank as you start overloading the gearbox and clutch, my
recommendation is then boost to around 7-8 psi and leave everything alone.
Attach the turbo and enjoy, spend the gasket money on a really good intercooler, colder the charge the higher the boost on stock compression.
[Edited on 29/4/15 by mark chandler]
^ I'd agree with Mark on this one
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Bike engines are designed to run on 93 ron fuel, although you have a high compression ratio because of valve overlap its effectively less than static and they are well designed, 7-8 psi on 97 ron fuel is fine with no changes to the engine.
Spacer will kill 'off' boost power, running a higher boost.
Really big power does of course add additional loads, not just Piston, con rods and crank as you start overloading the gearbox and clutch, my recommendation is then boost to around 7-8 psi and leave everything alone.
Attach the turbo and enjoy, spend the gasket money on a really good intercooler, colder the charge the higher the boost on stock compression.
[Edited on 29/4/15 by mark chandler]
So I can just run it completely stock safely at 7psi, and I would not gain anything by adding a thicker head gasket
Thanks jim
Hello Jim,
Yes, just run high octane fuel, good mapping and decent intercooler, lowering the compression at this level of boost will cost you power!
Kev
Yes converted myself, megasquirt (an old one so injection only) knocked up a plenum, throttle bodies and made inlet and exhaust then had rolling
roaded.
My blade engine's clutch could not take the extra torque so had to fit a lockup clutch, you may be okay with heavy springs.
I set the boost on effectively on the wastegate, my turbo is a bit special, have a BOV to protect when closing down and have overboost control set on
the ECU so if it sees 10 psi it stops fueling just in case.
It's been as good as gold, had to replace the gearbox once that's it really but they are not overly strong on an early blade engune
anyway.
Regards Mark
Jim, what turbo are you going to use? 7psi on a small turbo is very different to 7psi on a big one.
I have ordered a garrett gt2860rs should b here tomorrow
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Hello Jim,
Yes, just run high octane fuel, good mapping and decent intercooler, lowering the compression at this level of boost will cost you power!
Kev
Yes converted myself, megasquirt (an old one so injection only) knocked up a plenum, throttle bodies and made inlet and exhaust then had rolling roaded.
My blade engine's clutch could not take the extra torque so had to fit a lockup clutch, you may be okay with heavy springs.
I set the boost on effectively on the wastegate, my turbo is a bit special, have a BOV to protect when closing down and have overboost control set on the ECU so if it sees 10 psi it stops fueling just in case.
It's been as good as gold, had to replace the gearbox once that's it really but they are not overly strong on an early blade engune anyway.
Regards Mark
