It’s no longer the cheap option, check out the going rate and make sure you get the pick up and spreader plates.
It still needs shortening.
We are talking about a bit of tin less than a mm thick that has sat in all the elements for 30 years with the only rust protection being the leaking oil from the engine.
. Diy option two.
The black top sump is easily modified, again I’ve done two and got one on the bench but...
The instructions found on the net gives a very low oil volume. Around 3.5L. That itself isn’t a problem as there are plenty of road cars that run that volume. The Zetec had around 4.5L and I would like to see it closer to that but that is a lot more work.
I did two, fitted one and sold the other. It was very nicely done and tig welded but it didn’t even make enough on eBay to cover the price of the Welding gas.
Diy option three.
If you can weld alloy then the silvertop sump is a good option as per Dunnell and scholar engines. I don’t think they do them any more due to supply but worth asking if you have one.
Next step up the ladder. Tigers Era sump, Neil Dunne F2 sump, kit spares sump. My choice of these would be Neil Dunne’s it’s not very well know in the kitcar world but extremely well respected in oval racing. Do your home work.
Top of the ladder is the Raceline sump. It has a few down sides, it weights a ton at around 10kg as it has two thick steel windage trays it has a strange oil pick up arrangement. And if you bash it it’s likley to crack instead of dent it.
But it’s top draw as it works and the casting is very nice. Gbs / kit spares have the best deal
Second hand, you see one or two a year pop up but they never go cheap and you need to make sure you get all the bits.