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Spraying advice/tips
sdh2903 - 18/8/11 at 08:40 PM

Hi All

Due to the recent arrival in our family and my hectic schedule with work up until the end of october I have officially resigned myself to a 2012 IVA. Seeing as though I'm going to have a little more tinker time I've decided i am going to paint my car.

I've pretty much settled on using cellulose as 2k is just plain too scary. I Am going to get a 50 or 100L 3hp compressor, Belt drive if can get one in budget to keep the noise down.

Where I am confused however is regards spray guns, nozzles, filters etc, Anyone got any pointers/recomendations or tips to help me out?

Cheers
Steve


Mark Allanson - 18/8/11 at 08:44 PM

Do a search on my name, I have answered similar posts several times before. Cellulose is 1950's technology - leave it there!


Daddylonglegs - 18/8/11 at 08:58 PM

I am also going to spray my car myself. I did loads of questioning and research about 2K v Cellulose and have decided the following:

I will be spraying the car outside under a gazeebo cover with thin covers on the sides.

I have got Cat 5 disposable suits (with full hood) to use, a top quality mask (and yes I know it should be air fed, but my view is if I check it's seal first using something pungent, if I can't smell anything then the mist will not get through the mask for the short duration I will be spraying. I am also using full sealed goggles and rubber over gauntlets.

I look at it from the point that I will only be spraying in short burst anyhow then coming out of the area for a while. I also thought of using a spare cooling fan as an extractor to help keep the concentration of paint mist down too.

I'm sure many will tell me "well it's your lungs"etc. but cellulose isn't exactly a 'friendly' paint!

So that's my plan anyhow, hope that helps.

JB


RK - 18/8/11 at 09:01 PM

why not use vinyl? Even if you pay someone to do it, it's cheaper than painting and much better for your long term health. I've been convinced, even tho using sign vinyl hasn't proven to be very easy to work with.


Mark Allanson - 18/8/11 at 09:02 PM

You are only going to die in short bursts too - FFS


tilly819 - 18/8/11 at 09:10 PM

not trying to be funny here but if you are using 2K use the proper gear i now have isocyonate asthma for the rest of my life because i was ignorant of this... ITS NOT WORTH IT trust me

there are other options celly is one if a little old school then there is synthetic (the bodgers choice this in my opinion), or if you want to keep up with the times go water based, still quite expensive but there are some very nice paints available

tilly


sdh2903 - 18/8/11 at 09:11 PM

I have vinyl on some panels, yes it looks ok from a distance but up close just looks like a poor paint job. Its not durable either, i've marked a couple of bits already too so I can foresee constantly re doing it.

I totally agree with cellulose being old hat, however I can't really see an alternative for home spraying?

I also dont understand why people would risk spraying 2 pack without an airfed mask, I know you will always get 70 year old painters who say it never did them any harm, but is it really worth the risk to your health?? for the sake of painting a car, a toy/occasional use car at that.


franky - 18/8/11 at 09:15 PM

Are you keeping it red?


Mark Allanson - 18/8/11 at 09:18 PM

There are cheap but good paint systems available, just do the search.

you can protect yourself to the nines, but you are going to hurt your wife, kids, neighbours, pet dogs, cats, fish in a pond 300 yards away, the overspray will settle in cabbages in the allotments, and poison all kinds of people.

unless you have £200K of full filtered, negative pressure, temp controlled booth with full airfed masks don't bother.

You are committing a criminal offence by buying 2k for automotive use, and those selling it equally so.

DON'T DO IT


sdh2903 - 18/8/11 at 09:28 PM

Thats why 2k is out.

Yes i think it will be staying red although I could be swayed before painting happens


RK - 19/8/11 at 06:16 AM

I am not sure the proper car vinyl is going to scratch off as easily as the old sign vinyl did for me. I will let you know in a few weeks when my new supply comes in. I'll never paint though just because getting good results is way too difficult under the conditions I have (too humid, or too cold).


sdh2903 - 19/8/11 at 06:38 AM

I have used both sign vinyl and pukka cast laminated vehicle vinyl, the latter was much easier to use and is more durable however in.a bright gloss colour like mine the finish isnt great. It still marks aswell.


Nick DV - 19/8/11 at 08:34 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
There are cheap but good paint systems available, just do the search.


Mark, what are they and any pointers?

Cheers, Nick


sdh2903 - 19/8/11 at 01:21 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Nick DV
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
There are cheap but good paint systems available, just do the search.


Mark, what are they and any pointers?

Cheers, Nick


+1


Arthur T wareing - 19/8/11 at 04:06 PM

Hi I am not a sprayer but I worked in a ford factory for thirty years and in the early years I worker in the garage department and did a bit of spraying. When Ford changed to 2 pack they also decided to have robots spraying the cars. 2 pack contains cyanide I do know it is lethal. Do not attempt to use it with out the proper equipment and the compressor that feeds the face mask must be in a different location to were you are spraying. I sprayed my Royale Windsor with celouse which was a big car I just sprayed all the panels off the car. As I was spraying ally and fiberglass I was not worried about rust and was only spraying for cosmetic reasons. As I only have a 7 cfm compressor I couldn't use a devilabus spray gun I used a clarke and still got a fantastic finish and we were using the car for weddings. Even if using celiouse use a filter mask. Regards Arthur


sdh2903 - 19/8/11 at 04:35 PM

So has anyone any suggestions on spray guns, nozzles etc? I know the pro's will recommend top end stuff, my budget will prob be up to 100 for a gun that would do it all, primer and top coat etc. Or would I be better off with separate primer and top coat guns?

Oh and if anyone has a compressor they want rid of give me a shout!


Mark Allanson - 19/8/11 at 07:50 PM

If using 2k professionally (this is historical as we all use waterbase these days), the highbuild primer was isocyanate, the etches were 1k, as was the colour coat (polyester), and the clearcoat was 2k.

You can now buy 1k highbuild, and 1k clearcoats which are almost as good as 2k and cheaper and easier to use. Same process as the professionals, but safer (I would still advise airfeds), and it won't kill your kids. ALWAYS get the data sheets with the paint, buy all the paint from one manufacturer to guarantee compatability, and DON'T take shortcuts.


Confused but excited. - 19/8/11 at 08:10 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Daddylonglegs
I also thought of using a spare cooling fan as an extractor to help keep the concentration of paint mist down too.

I'm sure many will tell me "well it's your lungs"etc. but cellulose isn't exactly a 'friendly' paint!

So that's my plan anyhow, hope that helps.

JB


It isn't just the paint particles that you need to worry about, it's the thinners vapour and a particle mask won't stop you breathing that in.
Even masks with carbon absorbtion units are only meant for wear whilst evacuating from a contaminated area. Not for working in whilst in a contaminated environment. And then they are only effective in low concentations of contaminants.


museumman - 21/8/11 at 08:32 AM

Hi I always use HVLP low pressure high volume spray gun easier for amateur to handle paint does not bounce back off car which mitigates health problems still use well fitted air fed mask though you only live once. You don't paint the neighbours cat with over spray which is also good.