To cut right to the point...

I started changing the rear discs and pads on my 2002 Skoda octavia. (my daily driver that I will need again on monday)

All is straight forward (ish), but I really cannot get the pistions back into the calipers, so can't fit the pads.

Firstly I don't have a tool, but tried the "tip" in the haynes manual that says use a pair of circlip pliers to wind them back in.
Well its turning but not moving back in.

So unless told otherwise first thing tomorrow I will buy a rewind tool.

Now what is really confusing me is that these tools are handed.
The haynes book says clockwise, so I guess I need a right handed one.

Can someone confirm this is right. (are both sides right handed or is one actually left handed?)
Also why are they handed, why does it not just press the piston back in?


Any advice welcome.

You have to apply alot of force at the same time as turning. I have managed it in the past but far easier with a tool.

Steve

thought it might be the case, but i don't think i will get any more force on it.

does it really matter whether the tool is handed?

[Edited on 18/9/10 by Lars]

I used a g clamp and a disc grinder spanner (115 mm) on the rears of my 2001 VW passat. I'd bet my bottom dollar they're virtually the same as yours. Just put the clamp over the caliper and onto the piston. Tighten it a little and then use the spanner to turn the piston back in. The tighten the clamp a bit more etc etc. Works a treat.

Yes - the pistons are threaded...turn it the wrong way and it will try and come further out rather than go back in...which is not good when you're then applying more and more pressure in the other direction...something's gotta give, Jim...

You probably need a right handed tool although using circlip pliers/angle grinder key to turn the piston and careful use of a "g" clamp might work

I found I could get a tyre lever in to apply the pressure then found a set of pliers that fitted the slot from the side so I could wind them in. I am sure they both are right hand thread.

Steve

Lars, reckon they'll be the same as my neighbours Mk5(?) Golf. I made up a tool which you are welcome to borrow if you are near enough Cemetery Junction in Reading to make the trip worthwhile?
Cheers, Pewe
PS As said above the g clamp and circlip pliers sounds a good alternative - from memory they need screwing in right handed but don't quote me on that.

Thanks guys.

I was thinking of making some sort of tool for the winding bit, as the circlip plier method is a little fiddly. However the angle grinder tool idea is excellent, should have thought of that, even have few spare.

I will give that a go, and then if that not work invest in a proper tool when the shops open.


Lars

PS Pewe unfortunately I have no means of getting to you. Tin top has no brakes and the locost is SORN.

Do you need to remove the cap from the fluid reservoir to allow the fluid to go back? ie so its not fighting against air?

quote:

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Originally posted by balidey
Do you need to remove the cap from the fluid reservoir to allow the fluid to go back? ie so its not fighting against air?

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Thanks

I did follow advice in the Haynes book that says to loosen the bleed valve. I did push out brake fluid, just the piston did not retract.

i promise you adithorp's
advice is 100% correct
done it just like he says last weekend on my daughters car
cheers les g

I struggled with above method all afternoon for just one side.... went down to mates garage and borrowed correct tool...both sides completed in half hour!

Beg/borrow correct tool...its not worth the hassle!!!

I did mine with a grinder disc spanner in about 15 minutes.

quote:

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When you rebuild DON'T pull the handbrake untill you've pumped the foot brake.

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thanks all

the angle grinder , g-clamp method did work, but not quick enough took me 10 mins for about 2mm, given that the pads had worn through to the metal (well almost), that would have just taken to long.
So I decided to get the tool, which work absolutely brilliantly.
(If anyone near Oxford wants to borrow it let me know.)

Turns out it was more of a problem to remove the discs, as the little counter sunk screw just would not shift, ended up drilling it out and re-tapping, and fitting a flange nut, will be easier to remove next time. It does not sit flush, but luckily there is recess in the alloy that accomodates it.

Thanks all.

[Edited on 19/9/10 by Lars]

Center punch on the screw tilted so that it is pointing in an anticlockwise direction removes the screw normally. The screw only holds the disc in position until the wheel is on

funnily enough I heard the centre punch suggestion from my motor factor last night too.

But I dont have a centre punch anyway

Again thanks all (I made it to work today)

i got my stuck screw out with a bolster chisel and mallet. That learnt it.

How come some pistons are threaded but others arent? On my vivaro i just forced them back with a G clamp.

Because the Vivaro handbrake isn't on the caliper perhaps. Isn't it a drum/shoes inside the disc?