Hi folks and merry Christmas
I have decided to go with the duratec engine for my build and was wondering what my best options are for a gear box.
Hi type 9 and have a look at RWD motorsport
Cheers Ali
You will need T9 box.
A Duratec to T9 Bell housing
The flywheel will need to be changed to a ST150 flywheel if it is not a ST150 engine.
You will need a Heavy Duty Pinto friction plate for the clutch.
You will need an old Zetec clutch plate, I used an upgraded RS Turbo clutch plate, to handle to power increase of Throttle bodies.
You will need an actuating mechanism I used Hydraulic using Titan slave cylinder and SAAB type release bearing.
Hope you have lots of cash, I did now I don't!!
Oh and that's just for starters!!
[Edited on 28/12/11 by big-vee-twin]
I have a MT75 with 2.3 transit lpg duratec transit bell housing 
not the cheapest route as the bell housing cost £309.
If you go with the type 9 you will need to go with a H/D gearbox if you make any mods to the engine as the box is not that strong
I have read that some people have seen 300 bhp from a mt75 with no problems?
MT75 takes more torque than a Type 9
250 is what I heard
Have you thought about Mazda 5 or 6 speed MX5 gearboxes as an option, should bolt straight on
there's nothing wrong with the mt75 box and you will have no probs with a type 9 on a standard (ish) engine
i would go for a type 9 myself as all the upgrade boxes are based on it's dimensions and you can also get gear kits from quaife tranx bgh etc for
the type 9 (as far as i know nothing is available for mt 75)
the duratec is very expensive to do properly as has been said,as well as all the bits required for the install you may also want to consider getting
the crank keyed and fitting an upgraded crank pully (known to fail at high rpm) and there is a cam chain tensioner issue too for details have a look
at raceco http://www.raceco.com/fordd.html
for more details on whats involved have a look at
sbd (engine conversion parts)
raceline (engine conversion parts)
raceco (engine conversion parts)
rwdmotorsport (bellhousings etc) i would advise getting all your driveline components from same place if possible ie bellhousing, clutch plate and
cover,and actuator
I'm going with an MX5 5 speed box for my Duratec. It's the 2006 onward, Mk3 "N7" box. It apparently bolts straight on, however it
means the engine leans 10 degrees towards the exhaust side. The other problem is the narrow part is 7" across while the Type 9 is 6".
Someone said about grinding parts off the MX5 box but I can't see much that can be taken off. The MX5 bellhousing is about 11 inches long,
whereas I think the Type 9 housings are something like 7". It's also wider, meaning it protrudes lower under the engine, and can stick out
past some shortened sumps.
I've gone for the standard MX5 flywheel, starter, and clutch. They should be an easy fit. They haven't arrived yet, and I don't have an
engine to put them on. So I can't say if it's the right way to go. I'm guessing that seeing as the standard MX5 is about
160-170bhp, then the clutch should be ok with about 180bhp.
Raceline sell a special sump designed to compensate for the 10* angle.
I might have a Type 9 for sale fairly soon, assuming I can fit the MX5 box in without much trouble. The trapezium shaped transmission tunnel in the
Fury is about 6" near the top but I might get away with having the gearbox a bit lower.
[Edited on 28/12/11 by Furyous]
[Edited on 28/12/11 by Furyous]
I'm running the NC MX5 5-speed with a stock 2.0 Duratec and have been happy. Its plug and play with no custom machining. I only had to lob off
two small mounts near the tail of the transmission since they hit the tunnel.
If you can find one and it will fit the chassis, its a painless choice.
Has anyone put 200+bhp through a mx5 box yet?
quote:
Originally posted by eddie99
Has anyone put 200+bhp through a mx5 box yet?
quote:
Originally posted by MkIndy7
it needs to be mx5 parts from the crank backwards and the starter, it also has a hydraulic clutch arm that sticks out abit aswell.
We had fiesta ST150 solid flywheel and starter with the engine.
Bought a MX5 friction disk (to match the gbox splines) and tried to use the ST150 pressure plate and the whole assembly was too long to mate upto the
mx5 box.
Then bought a MX5 pressure plate, the bolts on this were a lot further out than the tapped holes on the ST150 flywheel
Bough a MX5 flywheel and everything bolted together ok... But the ST150 starter wouldn't fit so ended up with an MX5 one of those aswell (maybe a
dual mass one might have fitted) the ring gear was closer to the crank than on the ST150 flywheel possibly needed spacing out.
But I've slept since then but that was pretty much the order of events so would recommend anybody in the future to plan for MX5 from the start so
they know what their getting into.
Thanks for all the info guys after all that I think I will go back to my original plan of using an mx5 engine and box seems easier and cheaper. Anyone know where I can get a donor vehicle apart from "the bay"
Alright Kitch,
I've been wheeling and dealing from across the pond and I've done a deal on a 1.8 (Variable valve timing model with 152bhp) with all the
ancillaries, ECU, Loom, 5 speed box and Prop shaft. And the best part is it's just about ran in having only done 30,000 miles.
As soon as I'm back we'll collect our steel and get welding.....Can't wait!!
Alrite globe trotter
Getting really excited about it now I watched an old top gear last night where they were building a 7 got the taste buds tingling. By the way I was
doing 75kg power snatches yesterday only 2 kg under my body weight.
See you soon
Good job on the snatch!
So any luck with an engine and gearbox? Are you looking for a MK2 1.8 like the one I'm using? I suggest we power up the one in the scrappy to
check mileage and to see how it sounds, could be a bargain at £350 and you'll get uprights and brakes.
Yeah could be worth looking at the scrappy one but I have got my brother in law to put his feelers out for one as well. I understand the 1.8 engines are 50kgs heavier than the 1.6 so do you think there would be much difference?
I'd be very surprised if the 1.8 engine and box was 50kg heavier than a 1.6 as they look very similar externally, i guess there may be a slight increase but only a few kg's i'd have thought.
I just had a look on the Haynes site and that says it's a lot heavier and it dosent rev as high as the 1.6 but it seems to be personnel choice and there's lots of conflicting evidence on them both.
The 1.6 as a car is lighter. This is due to smaller/lighter diff, driveshafts, prop, brakes, flywheel/clutch.
The engine weights are approx the same. The revs are also about the same, though the 1.6 will rev a little better. A light flywheel on the 1.8 should
make it the same.