bitsilly
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| posted on 4/5/09 at 02:55 PM |
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Wanted, sierra 3.14 diff, or swop for new freelander one
It seems that for the busa I need a 3.14 diff ideally so if you have one please let me know! (can't afford the Ebay prices usually).
Or if it interests you, I have a new later Freelander diff with the improved bearings and a quaife ATB, also new to fit to it, perhaps we could do a
deal?
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bob tatt
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| posted on 4/5/09 at 04:37 PM |
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good luck i searched for a cheap one for a while got very lucky and found one in a local scrappy had to strip from the sierra though... i know mnr
have a few in stock about 450 though maybe they would do a deal on the freelander worth asking..
rob
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bitsilly
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| posted on 4/5/09 at 04:53 PM |
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Rob, I've seen the sticky post with the details of all the codes, numbers and Sierras, but how do identify a 3.14 diff? I mean, where do you
look for the numbers?
Cheers
ps did you find it necessary for the busa? Mine is a turbo one but I guess they will have similar revs??
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Johneturbo
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| posted on 4/5/09 at 06:22 PM |
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there should be a tag, held on by one of the bolts for the back cover.
but only real way of knowing is to take the back cover off, the ratio it's stamped on the crownwheel.
ps i have a 3.14 i took it out as it was to long for my R1
[Edited on 4/5/09 by Johneturbo]
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Gergely
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| posted on 5/5/09 at 11:27 AM |
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You don't need to take the cover off. Just start rotating the propshaft end, and check how many rotations you need to do in order to arrive to
one full rotation on the halfshaft side. Mark both with a marker and you should be able to see. A 3.14 diff will require 3 full rotations plus 50
degrees (less than a quarter turn). A 3.38 will require 3 turns plus 136 degrees (around a third of a turn), and a 3.62 3 turns plus 223 degrees (more
than half a turn).
Check also that the diff is not welded i.e. the two halfshaft sides can rotate independantly.
Tip: If you go abroad sometime check the scrappies, the 3.14 Sierra diffs cost this much in the UK only...
Gergely
Our build pictures
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