bracey
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| posted on 1/12/06 at 06:51 PM |
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heeeeeeeelpppppp please
need someone with good knowledge of dellorto carbs to speak to as im getting no where and getting fed up re basic jetting of carbs so will run 
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skydivepaul
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| posted on 1/12/06 at 07:19 PM |
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give bogg brothers a call at malton
dave is an expert on carbs and will set them dellortos up for you on the rolling road for about 80 quid or so.
sorry dont have the number but do a search on google for the number
http://www.smartideasuk.com
http://www.smartmapping.co.uk
HD CCTV
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access control systems
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ecosse
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| posted on 1/12/06 at 08:12 PM |
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Good Dellorto setup guide here
http://members.aol.com/dvandrews/dellorto.htm
Cheers
Alex
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donut
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| posted on 1/12/06 at 08:33 PM |
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Bogg Bros: 01944738234
Website: http://www.boggbros.co.uk
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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JoelP
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| posted on 1/12/06 at 08:52 PM |
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boggs did my old carbs, nice guy the old fella. 
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lotustwincam
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| posted on 1/12/06 at 11:56 PM |
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I'm not an expert and wouldn't even go as far as saying that I had a GOOD knowledge of Dellorto carbs.
Having said that, the following is information that I have gleaned from playing with my own DHLA 40H's, and from reading the necessary
hard-to-find information.
The first thing I would ask is what model of carbs are you trying to tune and for what engine? I would presume that they are probably DHLA40 carbs. I
would further guess that there is a good possibility that they may have the suffix of H (or higher)
You see the problem is that most of the information available (including Dave Andrews site) is for the older model of DHLA 40 - the non-emission
variety. Most second hand carbs that come up for sale (on eBay for example) usually come off an Alfa or similar and will have a suffix, such as DHLA
40H. These later carbs were built with emissions in mind and work in a slightly different way to earlier carbs and so require different jetting.
Here's the main differences that I am aware of that apply to DHLA-H's
Firstly the idle jet for 1300-2000 engines will almost always be between a 57 and 65. DO NOT use the idle jet holders from earlier carbs. You must
stick with the original idle jet holder supplied with the DHLA-H carb.
Secondly, the emulsion tubes. These carbs are usually supplied with a 10 or 11 tube, and you should stick with this. Occasionally a change to an 8 may
be required. Expect to use a 180 air corrector on a 10 tube or 210 air corrector on an 11 tube.
And thirdly, the mains will always be a tad richer than the books recommend. Usually 5 to 10 richer than the older carbs.
Unfortunately, there is no quick and easy way that I'm aware of to arrive at the correct combination of jets. An so it may be cheaper in the
long run to have an expert set them up for you.
Finally, I should mention that these later emission carbs do not like hairy cams and so you may never be able to get them set up perfectly.
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thunderace
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| posted on 2/12/06 at 10:46 AM |
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what engine is it and what spec???
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bracey
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| posted on 2/12/06 at 12:13 PM |
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it is a manta ohc 1800 with a piper 270 cam would not having a fuel regulator cause probs in revving quickly ie snapping throttle open ?
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bracey
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| posted on 2/12/06 at 12:16 PM |
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oh and they are just dhla 40 s
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JoelP
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| posted on 2/12/06 at 12:48 PM |
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i can only offer two minor points 'ere One, using a bike fuel pump is IMHO a very simple way to sort the fueling as they self regulate to
7psi ish. Two, wouldnt the xe engine be a simple swap for this?! Then you could avoid the bloody carbs altogether! 
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bracey
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| posted on 2/12/06 at 05:12 PM |
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thought of that one allready know where one going cheap?
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